broken piston rod

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I have a Honda 530 GXV engine for a riding mower with a broken piston rod ( 13200-Z0A-801). I found ones on the internet, but they go for $60, which is a lot for this. Does anyone have an idea of how close are the tolerances for other onces that I might find? If I go to a junk auto yard, do I have a reasonable chance of finding one in a car with the same dimensions, or do cars use much bigger ones? If I look around for lawn mowers, with a Honda engine, how much of a chance is there that I'd find one which fits, or are they really propriatary with custom dimensions.
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On Sunday, July 10, 2016 at 10:07:48 PM UTC-5, Deodiaus wrote:

is a lot for this. Does anyone have an idea of how close are the tolerance s for other onces that I might find? If I go to a junk auto yard, do I hav e a reasonable chance of finding one in a car with the same dimensions, or do cars use much bigger ones? If I look around for lawn mowers, with a Hon da engine, how much of a chance is there that I'd find one which fits, or a re they really propriatary with custom dimensions.
? http://tinyurl.com/gqwhj7u
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On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 20:16:59 -0700 (PDT), bob_villain

Engines
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On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 20:07:39 -0700 (PDT), Deodiaus

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On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 23:19:05 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

A broken rod will USUALLY also require servicing the crank. If you are lucky a bit of lye will disolve the aluminum off the crank and there will be no damage to the crank - but don't count on it. You need connecting rod Part #: 13200-Z0A-801 and it lists at about $73. You might think that is a lot for the part - get used to it!!
Boats.net has it for $46 - but add shipping before comparing to local sealer costs.
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On Sunday, July 10, 2016 at 10:54:41 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

h is a lot for this. Does anyone have an idea of how close are the toleran ces for other onces that I might find? If I go to a junk auto yard, do I h ave a reasonable chance of finding one in a car with the same dimensions, o r do cars use much bigger ones? If I look around for lawn mowers, with a H onda engine, how much of a chance is there that I'd find one which fits, or are they really propriatary with custom dimensions.

I used lye on an old 7 hp Tecumseh with a broken crank...I though I was the 1st! Damn! It polished-up real nice.
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The crank case gas a 2" X crack. Is crank made from steel or Al? I was thinking of having it professionally welded if less than $60. Or using a Mg sparkler ;< I was watching youtube about using JB Weld?
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On Sunday, July 10, 2016 at 11:57:21 PM UTC-5, Deodiaus wrote:

AL alloy...excuse me for chuckling about JB! 8^)
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On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 05:16:07 -0700 (PDT), bob_villain

I know guys who have used JB Weld on crankcases. The repair has often started leaking oil within a year or there-abouts. You NEED to get it CLEAN before patching to stand even half a chance.
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On Monday, July 11, 2016 at 2:12:54 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I said aluminum because you mentioned using lye to remove it! 'member?
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On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 16:01:56 -0700 (PDT), bob_villain

not be what he MEANT, but it is what he ASKED
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Deodiaus wrote:

Your obvious lack of expertise in this field leads me to recommend you just buy another motor . The chances of a successful repair -in light of your questions - are between slim and none . I recently rebuilt a Kohler KT17Q opposed twin that had a broken rod . It took a new crank , rods , pistons , and a machine shop and TIG welder to repair . I have all these tools , you don't or you wouldn't be talking about using JB Weld ...
--
Snag



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On Monday, July 11, 2016 at 8:29:02 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:

+1
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On 07/10/2016 10:57 PM, Deodiaus wrote:

The plot thickens... So the crankcase is damaged too? Does your boat need an anchor because that is what you have.
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rbowman wrote:

Not necessarily ... I had to weld a plug in the side of my Kohler opposed twin after it tossed a rod - the difference being that I have a full machine shop and a TIG welder . That wasn't my first choice though . I bought a case half and when it arrived I discovered that some yokel had ground the gaskets off the precision machined sealing surface at the case joint . Instant refund , and I still have the case to be melted down and recast into something else . In this guy's case though I agree with you . From the questions he's asking he's in over his head .
--
Snag



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On 07/11/2016 07:45 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:

I figure the next step will be "The piston is cracked too. Will eutectic brazing work or should I just use JB Weld like I saw on the internet?" Then we can move on to the state of the valves.
Then there was the post with the 4" crack -- I guess it's spreading.
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wrote:

it'd a 2X4 hole???
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The crank case gas a 4" X crack. Is crank made from steel or Al? I was thinking of having it welded. I was watching youtube about using JB Weld?
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On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 21:49:26 -0700 (PDT), Deodiaus

is a good chance it's "tweaked" too. If I was in the bush in Africa I'd likely try fixing it, but around hrere, realistically, it's really not worth fixing. If I was going to fix it, I'd have it welded. You need to bake all the oil out before either welding or gluing the hole shut. It is NOT a simple repair.
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On 07/10/2016 09:07 PM, Deodiaus wrote:

I'd give that about a 0% probability of success.

Worst case you find one that matches the crank and piston pin diameters but is about .100 longer between the centerlines and the head has a .030 squish band.
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