I'm accustomed to applying a grassy weed (i.e - crabgrass)
pre-emergent treatment in the early Spring, but would also like to
do something to prevent broadleaf weeds from coming up in the
Spring. I'm told now is the right time to treat for my area, which
is Northeast Oklahoma.
In the store I find the usual Barricade pre-emergent, which is
mainly for grassy weeds, but supposedly has some effect on
broadleaf weeds as well.
But I also find Greenlight Portrait (Isoxaben), which is
specifically for broadleaf weeds. But, it's twice as expensive as
Barricade, and conspicuously missing from the list of fully
controlled weeds is clover, which is kinda my main thing.
Does anyone here have experience with either of these for broadleaf
weeds? Or, does anyone know what the lawn services apply in the
Fall to control Springtime broadleaf germination?
I'm from north of the boarder, but was in the business for over 10
years and have taken courses on the subject of weed control.
I'm not familiar with either of the products that you mention but can
If you've got a weed problem a broadleaf week killer in the fall and
again in the sprintime, when the weeds come up is what I would
recommend. The broadleaf weed killer work on weeds by supplying a
growth stimulant which forces them to grow at a rate that causes them
to die. Grassy weeds are handled very differently.
For many years you had to spray a pre-emergent for grassy weeds,
primarily crabgrass, but there have been new products come on the
market ( 10 years or more now) that work as post emergents as well.
They are expensive though. I would suggest that you wait until next
spring to apply the grassy weed killer ( pre-emergent) and see how
your control is. A pre-emergent laid down in the fall is normally not
very effective against grassy weeds the following spring.
As I say, I don't know your area though and don't know your weather
You might try..alt.home.lawn.garden
It's been 4 or 5 years since I have done serious battle with broadleaf
weeds, but I don't recall any pre-emergents for broadleaf. What worked
very well for us was Weed B'Gone, which I believe was Ortho. There once
was a separate formula of it for St. Augustine grass that we have in
Florida. It really will kill just about everything with broad leaves,
so have to be cautious around desireable plants. Dollar weed was the
main foe, and we surprised a couple of lawn care companies when they saw
how it worked, but it worked on other stuff. It should not be used
during times of drought or stress, and best when weeds are actively
growing. It is taken up through leaves, and shows results within a day.
We usually fertilized a week or two prior to be sure everything was
Every area has it's own problems and solutions. Around here no one
would try to kill broad leaf weeds with a pre-emergence material. It is
much too easy to do that later. Personally I don't like to use general
applications, so I spot treat them. Less pollution, less poison, saves
money and it works.
Thanks for the replies.
My lawn is bermuda, so there wouldn't be any point to seeding that
I know that the lawn services do something to prevent germination of
broadleaf weeds. I know this because my neighbors who use these
services don't get those weeds in the Spring like I do. Also,
when I checked in the past, I found that all of these services
apply pre-emergent in both the Fall and the Spring. But I don't
know what chemical the services use for that.
Of course I can spray the weeds when they come up, but it would be
nice to nip them in the bud, so to speak.
I've posted in the other newsgroup, so we'll see what they have to
Lawn services sell a hell of a lot more chemical than is needed. We
talked to several that sell only monthly applications of "something",
for bugs, fert., weeds, whether it is needed or not. They would not
break out only the services we wanted. We rehabbed our condo lawn from
half dead, with large areas of bare soil and loads of weeds back to
entirely healthy, lush and weed-free. One application of broadleaf
herbicide got rid of 98% of those weeds....pre-emerg. used for grassy
weeds, goose grass, was effective but it is tough to get rid of entirely
and I know crab grass can have runners 20' long. We chose to go with
less than "high maintenance", for Florida, which means fert. 3x per year
rather than 4, used slow release nitrogen so's it doesn't wash away in
the first rain, and mowed optimum to keep lawn from drying out as fast.
Once the lawn was thick and healthy again, regular herbicide app. was
not needed....just hand pulling a weed here and there helps keep another
few hundred seeds from being deposited. If you get rid of most of the
broad leaf weeds in one app., you will still have seeds present that
don't germinate for 2-3 years, in addition to what lands from birds, but
healthly, thick grass helps keep them from germinating. Good watering
and mowing practices do a great deal to keep weeds down .. didn't quite
buy that until it was accomplished. The best recommendations aren't
from the Scott's label or some contractor selling chem. - check with
your local extension service for weed identification and treatment, soil
analysis, special pest problems.
Once more, for emphasis: pre-emergents for crab grass are tough on
birds, fish and other critters, especially near waterways. Timing is
critical. If possible, hand removal is better, but if chem. are used
they should be applied only when, where and how they will have best effect.
It's highly likely that whatever the commercial weed service are using
are licensed so you can't get them, anyway.
Many of the "preemergent" herbicides actually work not by preventing
germination but by the newly emergent seedlings being unusually
susceptible--that's the primary action for most of the crabgrass
As usual, my general recommendation is to talk to your local County
Agent and peruse the local ag-school web for tips appropriate to you
area (in this case, Ok State). Being you're in the NE corner of the
state, Mizzou, KSU, and UofA are all in areas which will have similar
problems. I'm in KS but the SW corner so we're night and day different
As a side note, w/ Bermuda and as much moisture as you guys normally
get, I would suspect there must be some soil ingredient lacking to not
have such a dense cover that annual broadleaf weeds would be much of a
problem at all. Talk to the County Agent about how to do soil sampling
Don't know anything about Greenlight Portrait, but Banvel (and I forget
what is active in it) is one very effective one. You may not be able to
get it w/o applicator license or ag producer ID, however, I'm not sure
of OK rules. You have to be careful with it to not use it where it can
get carried underground to root system of trees, bushes, etc., or you
may have collateral damage. But it'll surely help on any broadleaf
germination problem! :)
A side note is that clover is indicative of nitrogen-poor soil. If it
is doing well, it shows your soil is short of N and after a few years
will tend to retreat on its own and the grass fill in as soil nutrient
quality is built up. Overall, I'd recommend letting the clover go and
not considering it a weed but a really cheap "feed" portion of the
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.