1) I'm getting a new oil furnace in the basement, and the installer
wants to put a brick under each corner. ?? Is this something old-
timers do? Is it a good idea?
Are the bricks to prevent rusting? There has been water in the
basement on several occasions but it only made it to the furnace when
the furnace itself was leaking, that is, condensate from the AC was
overflowing. And when the water heater leaked, but that's in a pan
now. I've learned all the ways water can get on the floor and I don't
make the same mistakes anymore. The current furnace about 25 years
old only has a little bit of rust at the floor. Why would bricks
2) I also read somewhere, "NOTE: If you live in the South, you must
seal all joints, and insulate all the new ductwork leaving the
furnace." Why just the south? Are joints in hvac ductwork normally
sealed with caulk?
For that matter, what about joints in the 6" round metal flue pipes?
Also, what do you call those things in the main ductwork that are
mostly vinyl, 6 inches high, that clamp on to the ducts at each end?
Are they there to keep noise from getting into the ducts, or are they
there to make up for misalignment of the furnace and the ducts.
Elevating the bottom of the furnace off the basement floor is a sound
practice. Mine sits on 4 8" high concrete blocks. It is not an "old-timer"
All supply side air ducts should be sealed at the joints. Metal tape is the
better method. Cheap installers will use duct tape. Never heard of using
any kind of caulk.
Better installs will include insulated supply side ducts. This prevents
heat loss in the winter and sweating in the summer. Most local codes require
insulated duct at this time.
Supply side means the part of the unit that is delivering the warm/cool air
and that includes the round ducts.
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
If you had water before, you'll have water again. Maybe next week or next
year or next decade. The bricks buy you a few inches of time. The also
promote good air circulation around it to prevent rusting. In some cases,
it makes it higher, thus easier to service.
But a "few" inches means a LOT of safety. Assume 1,800 sq ft of basement and
6" of support. That's 900 cubic feet of water before the flood hits the
furnace gunwales. That 900 cubic feet is almost 7,000 gallons!
Usual faucet flow is in the neighborhood of 0.5 gallons/minute. For the
above calculations, an open faucet in the basement would take 14,000 minutes
(or almost ten days) before the water level reached the furnace.
Restricted sink faucets with airators are 0.4-.1.5 gpm, my code is
0.50, but piping and unrestricted slop sink facets, outdoor hose, 3-6
pgm is normal. 5 gpm should be considered. On a flood this summer with
sewer backup in maybe 90 minutes I had 4". A smaller basement of 600sq
ft would flood, at 5gpm you could awake the next day to 3000 gallons.
As some have pointed out, some faucets act like fireplugs with an output of
65 gallons/minute. If you live in one of these homes, the 7,000 gallon level
would be reached in about an hour and a half.
The point is, however, leaving the furnace on the floor would subject it to
ruinous 1/4" of water in the original calculation in a bit less than ten
hours. Living in the water-hell home, the critical level would be reached in
a mere four minutes.
Bottom line: Depending on your water pressure and delivery pipe, by putting
the furnace six inches above the floor, you have between 90 minutes and ten
days to recognize the problem. If the furnace is left on the floor, you've
got between four and 90 minutes to sober up.
All that aside, a concrete floor can sometimes act as a wick to elevate
ground water to its surface.
On 11/27/2010 8:38 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Some sort of spacers would make sense. I would use something made out of
concrete rather than a brick made of clay, though. Sometimes those turn
to dust at inconvenient times. I wish the people who installed my
furnace had put it up on blocks. No flooding issues (knock on wood), but
that filter housing is a knuckle buster right next to floor. A couple of
inches up would have made it easier.
My furnace filter was easy to change for several years. I don't know
when it changed, but it's not anymore. And I cant' get in there to
look at what's stopping it.
A typical cardboard-frame filter, it's hard to get started** and even
after I start it, today I had to force it in a little at a time for
the first 12 inches, before it slid in okay. **To get it started, I
usually end up pushig so hard the bottom carboard edge crumples.
That's just makes it harder to push at all later.
An inche or two underneath would help get it started, but that's not
the whole problem at all.
might be a good idea to fix the root cause of wet basement, the ideal
time to install a french drain is when the old furnace has left the
at least install the french drain in the area where the new furnace is
its hard to work around a existing furnace
after having installed a exterior french drain, new downspout drains,
new sidewalks and steps, and regraded a entire yard...... cost near 9
grand I was the laborer, it took months. 9 grand was supplies like 20
tons of gravel, concrete, supplies and backhoe contractor.
all to fix a wet basement that within months was wet again:( water
percolating up thru floor:(
then did the only thing left, $3600.00 for interior french drain that
made it bone dry....
if you had tried doing it right only to fail you might better
understand my suggesting interior french drains..........
First time in 60 years my dads and brothers home flooded last April.
Normally about 20 foot down but about 11 caused flooding. Missed me by
about 2 o3 feet. Sump pumps can't handle it btw.
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