Breaking a soldered joint

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Has anyone heard of someone rupturing a soldered copper pipe joint by deflecting the pipe (e.g. to clear an interference)?
Just curious.
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Not a properly soldered joint, no.
Poorly soldered joints, yes, I've done it several times -- one of the previous owners of this house (or someone he hired) wasn't nearly as skilled with a torch as he thought he was. Some of his joints that I've taken apart had hardly any solder inside them at all.
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Yes, if the joint was weak to begin with.
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On 2/3/2010 12:01 PM, mike wrote:

Only if the joint was poorly soldered. I broke a joint one time just by brushing against a run. It blew apart and there was just a small circle of solder right at the edge of the fitting.
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In typed:

Yes. It can happen rather easily but is generally unusual if the soldering was properly accomplished. It can happen more easily if the deflection were done multiple times, looking for the "best way" and things like that. I'd try to avoid it though: even the experts miss getting a perfect solder every time.
HTH,
Twayne
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wrote:

With a properly "sweated" joint you will NEVER break it. If the solder job is just a "glue job" with a cold bead run around the end of the outer peice, you may not even need to look at it the wrong way to have it fail.
I've never seen an "expert" screw up a solder joint on new copper with leaded solder. The new lead free crap is a different story!

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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I also have a difficult time with the lead free solder. Not saying this is right or wrong, but a couple times I used leaded solder to tin the joints and knocked/wiped any extra out of the fitting. Then sweated the joint with the lead free solder and it goes easy. Not much of a big deal since it was in a house from the 60's and all the other joints were with lead bearing solder anyway.
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wrote:

Except that when you knocked off the the extra leaded solder it landed in the lungs of the baby lying on the basement floor.
Just kidding.
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I bet you guys are both using propane torches.
Switch to MAPP. It's *much* hotter. Making joints with lead-free solder with a MAPP torch is easier than using leaded solder with propane.
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On Thu, 04 Feb 2010 19:48:34 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

Hey, I'll agree mapp is better than propane, but I'll still choose to dissagree about the leadfree solder. Even with an acetylene torch leadfee solder is NASTY compared to good old leaded solder and soldering paste. And an acetlene torch is even hotter than MAPP. I generally use MAPP with a high-swirl bernzomatic.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I think my MAPP torch is different than yours. Mine gets 4 small flames within the flame. It's noisy as hell at the right setting! And I can get a lot more heat out of that torch even using propane.
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wrote:

I don't have a MAPP torch, only a propane torch with MAPP gas.
I suppose it's hotter than propane, but I can't tell how much.
They didnt' sell simple MAPP torches, only those with built in piezo-electric lighters, so I wouldn't buy one. Maybe I'll get one used some day.
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http://reviews.homedepot.ca/1998/947831/reviews.htm
The reviews are good. Me, I like the one I got. Hot and fast, just like my.....
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wrote:

Trust me - you WANT the built in lighter. Just squeeze and go. Let go, and it goes out. Squeeze again and you have fire. Safes a LOT of relatively expensive MAPP gas.
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Years ago, I worked with a plumber who used acetylene torch with tank, and hose. He was forever looking for his sparker lighter. Finally another fellow asked him to try the piezo start mapp. The plumber said yes, that is far more convenient. And went on using the torch with the hose and the sparker that went missing every time.
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wrote:

That is the "high swirl" or "turbo-torch.
Excellent torch. But an acetylene torch is still hotter. The acetylene torch is also heavy, clumsy, and dirty untiull you get it going right - I use my Mapp TurboTorch for virtually all plumbing.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Well yes the acetylene is hotter, but we aren't smelting the joints together! Just soldering.
On the subject of plumbing, I recall years ago a long thread about stuffing white bread in a pipe to keep dripping water out of the way. I saw some commercially made stuff that does the same thing. Has anyone tried it? (I saw it at Lows) I think it may be something similar to the corn starch based shipping "peanuts" that disolve in water.
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wrote:

I did it with the bread. I had to buy a whole loaf because I don't eat bread. But the bread was good to eat and it worked well in my pipes and water heater.
There wasn't much water coming out of my pipes, but I think it could have soaked up quite a bit.

Why buy this stuff if bread works well? (well, maybe because it would soak up even more water, but you could also suff more bread in.) I wouldn't use pumpernickel. Just soft white bread with very soft crust. Wonder bread type stuff. And the bread I had was fresh and springy. I was taking no chances. :)
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Doug Miller wrote:

It's been many years since I've needed to sweat any joints but I'll try Mapp next time. To make things worse, my old Berzomatic torch developed a leak I couldn't fix and the newer low end torches are much smaller with less heat output than the old ones, (although I haven't used the new small one for sweating a fitting). I have a Mapp torch and gas and it gets hot, I've used it to solder a stainless steel sink, which I didn't know could be done. Lot's of heat, the right flux, and silver solder. Normal flux will burn and be useless before the SS is hot enough. I have also found that using the Mapp torch with propane will give off a lot more heat than even the old torches.
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Home Depot has a mapp gas torch kit (includes the first bottle of Mapp) for about $40. By Bernzomatic. Really good tool.
Can also burn propane, though slightly less hot.
If you wire it up properly, so the flame is pointing in a safe direction. The HD mapp torch can help warm the interior of a panel van with broken heater fan. Though, I'd never suggest anyone do that.
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