GT 2550
Started right up and ran at half-throttle for a minute per instruction manual. Moved to 3/4 throttle and it stalled. Now won't start at all, or even grind. Just a clicking noise.
Man, this has got to be a world record. I'll call Guinness and Ripley.
"Just a clicking noise" sounds like a dead battery. It may have been weak and had only 1 start left. 1 minute at half throttle might not have been long enough to charge it up. Have you tried jumping it?
I know that doesn't explain the stalling, but if you could get it started again with a jump, you'd be that much closer to seeing if there was real problem with the machine.
That's good advice and I do have jumpers as well as a charger and would follow that advice for an older unit, but I expect a brand new machine to have a battery that works. Unit to be picked up by retailer tomorrow. Thanks.
Jack wrote: ...
I'd have expected a retailer to have checked if it was delivered, etc., but it's certainly not unheard of for a new battery to have infant mortality syndrome nor, possibly, if the unit had been in stock a while just hadn't been charged fully.
Picked up or looked at? Are they sending a tech to see if it can be fixed on-site or are they just going to take it away and work on it elsewhere?
Just try charging the battery and see, if all is well just get a replacement battery since low charge sulfates them, why waste the time on a return with another weak battery. 13.8v is what you should charge it to.
If it's another weak battery -- assuming that the problem is a battery
-- then they'll have to pick it up again until they make it right.
Goddamnit, this is literally a brand new machine, delivered yesterday, and for $4,300 I want it to function like a brand new machine. I don't want to have to do troubleshooting on something brand new.
Fortunately, mowing season is over so there's no need to rush.
No, the pick-up guy isn't a tech. At their expense, they're picking it up and going back to shop to fix what ails it, whether it be the battery, starter, or whatever.
No advice requested; no further posts needed.
End of story, then?
Jack wrote: ...
So, by next spring the battery will be discharged anyway...
--
Are you sure it had oil in it?????
Not necessarily. With a good full charge before putting it to sleep, maybe, maybe not.
If so, I'll charge it then
The point is that when you buy something brand new, you'd like it delivered in tip-top shape and working. They may find that it's soemthing more serious than the battery, liek a defective starter that crapped-out.
You DID put oil in the crankcase before starting it, I hope. The engines are shipped DRAINED.
The cranky case has erl, right up to the "full" mark on the dipstick.
DerbyDad03 wrote in news:b2fc1644-07f7-44c5-973e- snipped-for-privacy@e1g2000pra.googlegroups.com:
But if by some fluke bad luck, while he is jump starting their problem the positive hits the frame (cat comes running through yard with dog on it's ass. Cat flys over mower. Goofy clumsy dog follows causing hot to ground.), this brand new machine is trashed even further. And you KNOW that EVERYTHING that is wrong and ever was will be becuse the customer shorted the electrical system.
Brand new machine. He shouldn't have to be messing with it and he should not be messing with it.
Amen to that, unfortunetly it's a Cub Cadet; read POS. I do lawn work for a living and you could not give me one of those . Good luck with it cause you're going to need it.
Don't be insulted, someone had to ask about the oil. I've worked on a lot of air cooled generators that had engines like those in a garden tractor and the engines were equipped with a low oil pressure cut off. The engine would crank and run for a short time then shut off if the oil pressure was low or in a number of cases, the oil pressure switch was defective, the engine would not run. You write that all your new machine will do is click. I wonder, with all of the safety switches being installed on new equipment, is it possible that there is a lockout switch on the brake, clutch, gearshift, seat, cowl or accessory drive? I've only repaired one Cub Cadet and it was a 1967 model belonging to a customer who bought an automatic standby generator from us. That old tractor was very simple and had none of all those new fangled safety devices.
TDD
You expect a new car to have "dealer prep."
I expect the same thing with a new tractor.
Yeah, my old Cub was a 1987 that I left with the dealer when purchasing this new one.
Shoulda kept it instead.
Is there a fuel shutoff on it.
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