brake metal window trim

[Bob]

Any suggestions on the proper method to install brake metal trim to cover the old wood trim. I am installing new / replacement windows and I plan to rent a brake. Any websites that describe the best technique.?

thanks

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Bend as needed to cap the wood. Trim to final length with metal snips. Use aluminum nails and a good caulk.

Making more than one, figure the width of material you need. Measure where the bends should go and then make your first piece. Adjust as needed. Now that you have your first piece you want to make a marking template. Cut a piece of the material as long as the width of the finished part. Where the bends are to be made, cut a notch in the template. Cut all the stock to width and mark them using the template so you do not have to measure each time. Ed

[Ned]

"Bob" wrote

If you have multiple bends in a piece, always start with the inner bends. Sometimes you have to pull the material out and flip around depending on depth to get the other inner bend. You will find this out once you start getting frustrated wondering how it's done.

Also when installing cap work, you start at bottom of window and work up. Sill/sides/head.

Always try to hide you nails where caulk will cover. Don't face nail in plain sight. I prefer stainless colored coated trim nails over aluminum nails, they don't bend like aluminum ones do. A trim nail holder helps getting the nail in a tight spot where it won't be seen, also saves your fingers.

There are many tricks to get a nice appearance with coil stock, comes with experience and picking up tips from others which do nice work. Unfortunately it's more difficult to explain than if you were standing beside someone where you could watch how to get nice results.

[Bob]

Thanks for the tip. I guess my question was more basic than I actually expressed it. Like....Do I do the head & sill first or the jambs ? Do I butt the coil stock to the window or screw/rivit it ? Is the "L" shape all I need then nail & caulk ??

sorry for being so inexperienced.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

I always did the sill first, then the side, then the top. If there is any overlap you want the water to run down the jamb and over the sill. The sill should have a slight taper.

Butt the stock to the window, nail, caulk. In most cases, an "L" is all that is required. I've done some older homes than needed a few bends to follow the wood trim.

It has been many years since I did that kind of work. What we used to do was take some stock tot he job and bend up templates with the shape needed. Measure the windows, then do the majority of the bending in the garage instead of on the job.

I see someone else said to use stainless steel nails instead of aluminum. When I did window capping, SS was not available. That is what I'd use today so follow his advice. Ed [e-mail]