Bosch dumping 36 volt hammer drill


Amazon and eBay are offering the Bosch 18636-02 hammer drill for $200 or less, while some stores list it for over $500. I ordered one shipped for $180 (US). That kit with the "-02" suffix includes two 36 volt 2 amp/hour lithium-ion FatPack batteries.
I'm not suggesting it's the only cordless drill deal out there. But if they aren't defective somehow, it looks excellent for a big hammer drill, and I wonder why Bosch is dumping them.
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The first big front wheel rollerblades.
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Just the batteries should sell for $300+, if it has a warranty its a great deal. But HDs Ridgid tools have life time warranty even on batteries.
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John Doe wrote: ...

...
My hypothesis would be end of stock of a discontinued model replaced by newer if not refurbished.
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So far I have two, selling two of the batteries and one charger on eBay. I need the drill bodies more. The box the kit comes in is factory sealed. The contents are not refurbished. I have a feeling that they just made a mistake, that very few people need a 7+ pound cordless hammer drill and they overproduced them. And then there is the downturn in the housing market. Many months ago, I also bought one of the 36v DeWalt cordless hammer drills, they aren't nearly as fancy outside or inside, and yet they sell for more on eBay.
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Why have such a large front wheel on that skate? It seems to me that having a standard wheel that was slightly raised would accomplish the same thing without the weight penalty.
How fast does the little motor get the motorized skates, and hopefully you, moving?
R
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I have thought so too from time to time. The complexities are amazing. It is never-ending fun for someone who enjoys skating and designing stuff.
One of the benefits, if not the main benefit, of an in-line long wheelbase for rough street skating is the ability to traverse small potholes without the frame falling into the hole. Raising the front wheel reduces that benefit. When you go over a rise, the front wheel raises the frame so that the trailing wheels can more easily go over the same rise. If the small first trailing wheel is lower than the front wheel, the front wheel will not raise the frame as far relative to the first trailing wheel, and it will catch more.
I'm not saying you're necessarily wrong in saying that I'm wrong. There are a jillion possibilities. The current method is working very well for smoothing out the road/sidewalk. The skate tends to catch more after the front wheel instead of at the front wheel, and that is better for me.
In this case, having a front wheel on the same level as the other wheels also allows using it as a drive Wheel. I'm planning to remove the first trailing wheel and replace it with a stopgap slider made of Delrin. The stopgap will go from the big front wheel to the small second trailing wheel. That should more smoothly transition the terrain from the front wheel all the way past the second trailing wheel. The cost might be worse handling when turning on rough terrain. Will see.

If you look at my "photostream", you will see some fancy looking red and white Rollerblades. That drive method used a 36 V DeWalt motor and propelled me up to about 18 mph. The system was ultra efficient, it felt very good after some practice, and it was encouraging, but the motor is much too close to the ground.
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The first big front wheel rollerblades.
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