Greetings all. My 7 year old Bosch SHU3035UC/UC12 stopped filling with water the other day. It powers through all the cycles and SOUNDS like its working, but when I open the door mid-cylce, no water... It drains fine though. I disconnected the hose from the dishwasher to verify that water is coming out of the hose and no kinks are present. Not sure what to try at this point. No issues with the unit in the past 5 years (came with the house we bought...)
Any suggestions other than calling a repair person? -betty
I think you need to call for service. If you can verify that the water to the machine is on and flowing, beyond that it could be a fill solenoid or any number of things that would be hard to diagnose. There may also be a strainer in the fill line, which could be clogged. If you do check for it, kill the power to the machine first.
The fella, which runs the site listed, used to post here. I used him for..... a dishwasher problem! Can't for the life of me remember what the part was, I believe a solenoid. Anyways, he responded for a problem with a Maytag, beat my local dealers price, and was correct on the diagnosis. My dishwasher was not filling, your problem sounds similar! You can use the trouble shooter guide. And, unless he changed his ways, he will respond to your email. Give him a day or so to respond.
I'm not associated in anyway with the site, some of the older Usenet people on here probably remember his name.
On my whirlpool, the inlet valve is in the front. Remove the kick panel, probably two screws have to be loosened, maybe removed to do this. You could take the 2 wires off the inlet valve solenoid and measure them for 110VAC during the fill stage of the wash cycle. Be careful if you get wet. you probably won't, especially since there is no water, but still, if you do, I'd postpone things until I dried off.
YOu can get either a digital or an analog (with a needle) meter, for under 20 dollars at Harbor Freight, Radio Shack, or Ace Hardware/HomeDepot/Lowes. ONly touch the plastic parts of the meter and the probes. Don't touch the metal parts of the dishwasher.
The metal clips that clip on to the taps of the valve will most likely have protective plastic (or something) covers over them, except at the open end where they slip on. That's where you put in the meter probes.
REmember to set the meter on AC volts when planning to measure AC volts, and on resistance when planning to measure the resistance of the coil, disconnected from thos e wires. Always set the meter to the right setting and amount before measuring something. Otherwise you may burn out your meter and have to fix it or buy another one. I've been doing this for 40+ years and only burnt out one or two meters.
When the wires are off the valve you can use the ohmeter to measure the resistance of the inlet valve, of the solenoid that is the electical part of the inlet valve. It should be greater than zero and less than infinity.
If you had voltage at the wires, you can try to confirm that the inlet valve is good, by putting one of the two wires on, and then just touching the other wire to the metal tab it connects to. Or if the wires are one piece, you can do both wires together. Even if there is no water, you should hear a little click when the valve opens.
Another thing that might turn off the inlet is the float. In the whirlpool it is obvious, a big plastic thing that sits low when there is no water and rises when it's filling with water. When it gets high enough, it turns off the power to the inlet valve, which makes the valve shut. Try lifting that up and down. ESPECIALLY the first time, note if it sticks at all. If it sticks at all you might free it up and then the whole thing might work.
It's unlikely that the internal hoses are clogged. After all, they're pretty big and all they ever get is water, but if you lay your head on the floor you should be able to see the hose from the valve to the center bottom near where they water shoots up. And you should be ableto see the hose or copper tube that goes out the side and bottom of the dishwasher to where it connects to one of the pipes to your kitchen sink faucet.
Do you have both hot and cold wwater at your kitchen sink? If not, why not. Is there a separate valve on the copper tube/pipe to the dish washer. Is it open? Is it turned counter-clockwise.
This is a pretty simple system, little more complicated than what it takes to turn on your garden faucet. Except the valve is electric and it also has the water level float switch in the cirucit.
You're either missing water, missing electricity, or the valve is broken.
1) no water to machine (but you chekced for that)
2) controller (timer) not send power to the water inlet (solenoid valve)
3) power to solenoid valve but solenoid valve no good
so oyu need to check signal to valve, if valve is getting a signal but not working >>>> bad valve
my best guess is that the valve is shot. If trouble shooting is beyond your capabilty, jsut order a new valve & swap it out
4) Bad float switch. I just had to replace the switch (a $14 component) on my parents' dishwasher after it ended up arcing and burning out. BTW, the official repair guy quoted them about $400 and wanted to replace the inlet valve and the main motor...
5) Too much suds (causing the float switch not to operate properly)
6) Other reasons... (see repairclinic.com and use Google as your friend)
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