Based on a Home Depot recommendation, I bought Cocoon Cellulose R-19
Insulation. He said to just open the bag at the place you want it and
then just break it up with your hands. (Gloves and knife help)
I then read the web and it says I need a machine to blow this in and it
says I should use this for more cavity-type insulation needs.
Should I not use blow-in insulation for my attic floor needs, or is it
fine to use? I don't plan on using this space for any type of storage.
Should I only "blow-in" with a machine, or is the home depot guy
Use the machine with the blow in stuff. You need to fluff it up for it to
work correctly. If just laying insulation in by hand, go with the
Many types of insulation require air trapped in the spaces to give their
rated R values.
Blowing in is a two person job...one dumping in the insulation
and one directing where it goes. Make sure you wear breathing
and eye protection. It's a pretty dirty job, but, very easy to
install. I think the Home Depot guy was assuming you were
blowing in the insulation. I used the blow in method for both
of my attics...worked fine...I also covered over my air
conditioning duct work which also helped insulate my cold
air from attic heat (flexible tubing).
Home Depot rented all of the equipment.
Blow it in, figure easily 20% settling in your rating. What is up there
now, some houses can experiance constant dust issues going to blown in
cellulose. Fiberglass batt wont deteriorate over time or settle as much
as old newspapers will.
On Sun, 26 Mar 2006, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
The first layer is a mixture of blown in and fiberglass batt. But none
of the batts have the vapor retarder (is this called moisture guard as
well?) and there also no plastic between the floor and the insulation,
blown in or fiberglass.
The second layer of insulation is laying on top of a bunch of free wood
planks which are laying perpendicular to the joists, all in very poor
condition and some showing signs of a previous fire. This second layer
of insulation was seemingly "strewn" in and for some reason the wood
wasn't removed (Seems like a total fire hazard to me and my friend I
talk about below). I have taken almost all of the second layer off and
removed almost all of the wood. (Man, oh man, what a job that is.
Sweat under the googles dripping because of the mask blowing into the
goggles. About 4 bags of insulation and I'm outside undressing my head
and toweling it down)
I had a friend stop up and give me a recommendation. He said I should
take it all up and lay down the fiberglass with vapor retarder facing
the floor and then a blanket of fiberglass perpendicular to that. I was
planning on taking the second layer off no matter what, but this first
layer is going to be a killer.
Any recs on a rental commercial vacuum cleaner for things like blown in
insulation? Can something like that be rented and is it small enough
for one man to handle? If so, I'll go hunting for one.
I'm dreading it, but I think I'm laying down fiberglass after taking up
the first layer. Ughh!!!
Wow. You may need to take up the first layer, but
before you do that think about what you have. You
didn't mentioned the age of the house or how it is
built. Is this an old house? If so, is the
ceiling well sealed with oil paint? If you answer
yes to either of those, the several layers of
paint probably constitute a moisture barrier. If
so, you don't need to remove the first layers.
Even if the ceiling paints are not oil,if you have
plenty of ventilation in the attic you can get by
with no moisture barrier. The whole point of the
moisture barrier is to keep the insulation dry and
with adequate ventilation it will stay dry even if
moisture rises through the ceiling materials.
If you decide you need a moisture barrier consider
placing 3 mil plastic down (over the joists with
plenty of slack between joists, and replace the
original first layer materials filling the
cavities to the top of the joists. Consider
adding back some (unburned) boards across the
joists to make moving around easier; I would put a
screw in each end and into the joists so the board
The rest is more or less correct, i.e., lay
unfaced fiberglass batts crosswise to the joists.
There is no need to throw away any of your
insulation materials. Don't forget to provide
adequate ventilation in the attic.
On Mon, 27 Mar 2006, email@example.com wrote:
It was built in 1860.
Plaster cieling. Some sections have a layer of dry-wall over them.
I'm not sure how to tell if oil paint was ever used.
It doesn't look like there has been an issue with moisture before (I'm
looking for mold when I say this), but I don't have a clue as to how old
the current insulation is. If it isn't too old, then signs of moisture
might not show? My guess is that the current insulation is at least a
decade old and probably way more than that.
The reason I'm hesitant to put down boards and screw them in is that I'm
then going to lay a second layer. I just have some big boards, about 2
ft by 3 ft and 2 inches thick and I just move those around so I can
maneuver the attic.
Hm... Oh well. I just wanted to be able to see what I had in the first
place. The second layer was not laid down with any sense of organization
and boards were surfacing as I removed the second layer, and
That old means it is sealed, oil paint was used
for at least a half-century after it was built.
Any rebuilds in the last 40 years or so may not be
sealed with oil paint. Forget about adding a
moisture barrier in the attic floor.
I had blown in insulation done to my basement on Monday. They had some
kind of machine, and it took all morning. Then they had to put a
fire-resistant coat on top of that.
I'll say one thing for it. I have a student from India staying here
who has been complaining about drafts since September. My other
tenant and I didn't notice any cold areas. On Wednesday she asked me
if I had something done to the house, because she is warm all the time
now. So it works. <g>
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