Bleedingh radiators and the expansion tank...

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On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:50:05 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@gatecom.com (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

Funny, everyone else seems to think he is considering letting incompressible WATER out of his expansion tank. If you knew anything about expansion tanks, water, and air, you would know that the drain is on the bottom of the tank and any air in that chamber is on the top. You should sign off and go back to your spamming for your bogus book elsewhere. You haven't offered any help here. You just post so you can add your SPAM sig. You sure have not enhanced the perception that HVAC techs who post here are all blatant rip offs.
BB
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On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:57:27 GMT, BinaryBillTheSailor@Sea++.com wrote:

Bill, You've obviously not seen a fill trol or extrol tank. They dont have drain valves on them. They have a male thread fitting on one end to screw to the air separator and the other end has a needle valve connection to test/pressurize the tank. NO DRAIN VALVE. Ive seen your posts. The only hot water you should get near is the hot water in your shower and the hot water in your instant coffee. Gary has probably forgotton more than you will ever know. Now sit down, shut up and learn a little. Merry Christmas you ol fart. Bubba
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wrote:

Merry Christmas backatcha, Bubba... and to all !!!!
_______________
Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software Written by a veteran Service Technician
https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod /
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On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:57:27 GMT, BinaryBillTheSailor@Sea++.com wrote:

Let's take a poll: Does anyone else think that schrader valve is going to put out water?

I help people, in exchange for which they put food on my table. This seems to be a problem for you. What do you do for a living?

Everybody has one, and some are one.
_______________
Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software Written by a veteran Service Technician
https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod /
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wrote:

Its for air, and it dont matter whether the bladder is located above or below the water line.
--

SVL



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(Gary R. Lloyd)wrote:

I think it will, but only if the diaphram has busted....
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On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:57:27 GMT, BinaryBillTheSailor@Sea++.com wrote:

I'll repeat and enhance my statement in case anyone missed it:
The "professional" HVAC techs who post here rarely if ever post anything other than plugs for themselves or their fellow techs. They are not interested in helping anyone. Gary the Spammer has made several posts in this thread disparaging my advise without offering any real help to the original poster. He just trys to scare anyone who might attempt to resolve a problem on their own by asking questions. That's typical of these tech school drop outs. If they can't bill for it, they aren't interested, and if anybody posts information that might cut into their money-making scams, they do their best to try and quash it with even more FUD.
nuff said
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On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 01:48:31 GMT, BinaryBillTheSailor@Sea++.com wrote:

You are obviously starving for SPAM. Here's a little more:
_______________
Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software Written by a veteran Service Technician
https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod /
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On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:56:02 GMT, BinaryBillTheSailor@Sea++.com wrote:

The more you drain, the more you refill. Unless you are refilling with clean distilled mineral free water (you arent) you are introducing added minerals each time. Its a balancing act. You have to add water once in a great while but the more you add the more minerals you add. Expansion tanks do NOT need to be drained twice a year. If you have to you need to find out why. Anytime you drain water at the boiler, you usually wind up with air in the system at the upper radiators. Then you have cold radiators. Then you have a call back. Purging air from a hot water system may be easy for you but it is costly when a technican has to do it. I dont drain water or purge radiators for free. Bubba
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REBubbass . Response was to Radiators Fucktard. You cant even read. Time for you to REschool REtard
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I'd be more concerned with adding oxygen rich water to the system than minerals. Hot, oxygen rich water is quite corrosive and will eat your boiler. Or does the air stripper take care of that because hot water can hold less disolved oxygen than cold water?
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Well, since most water that Ive ever come across is rich in oxygen, its going to be a little tough to remove it. Have you ever seen what mineral deposits and calcium deposits do to a hot water boiler? It causes excessive heating to the cast iron sections because of the insulating minerals that dont belong there. Next thing you know, you have water on the floor from a busted boiler section. I'll take my chances with the "oxygenated" water you speak of. I can remove the air easily. The mineral deposits in the bottom of the boiler can be very expensive to flush. They dont just come flying out when you open the boiler drain. Are you confusing this with a steam boiler? AND I have no idea what a air stripper is. Is that like a water washer? Bubba
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There will be little disolved O2 in a properly working hot water system because it will have been removed as rust in the boiler. When the O2 is used up, the rusting stops. If you keep adding feed water, you will keep rusting the boiler. Larger (non home) systems add oxygen scavenger and sludge reduction chemicals to the system but I've never seen this in a home situation. The guys at work who do use these chemicals have a lot of training and it's a high pressure steam system there anyway.
A home boiler should outlast the homeowner unless there is something very wrong somewhere ( like a leak or someone who keeps draining lots of water out of the system for some reason ). They're cheap anyway at $1500 to $2500 for reasonable sized houses. I think I paid $3000 including install. And $100/year for the service contract which includes cleaning.

It might be a brand name; it's an automatic vent. On my HW system, the installers placed one on top of the boiler and another one near the expansion tank. It's a little chrome plated cylinder with a float inside that lets air out of the system without human intervention.
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snipped-for-privacy@netscape.net wrote:

First, the expansion tank is there to act as a cushion against sudden pressure changes such as the automatic filler clunking on and off. Also, it accomodates changes in air pressure. The expansion tank is only a chamber with a flexible diaphragm halfway up. That diaphragm will last about 20 years, but can rupture.
Second, the pressure in your system is largely set by the automatic filler valve. A typical range is 6 to 22 psi. It's built into the valve.
Third, air in the system should escape via a relief valve, typically on the stem up to the expansion tank. Some systems have little air separators on local high points around the system. These are valves that have cardboard in them. Air escapes while the cardboard is dry but when water hits the cardboard it swells up and stops the flow.
Fourth, it sounds like you could benefit from an hour of a friendly plumber's time. Have him explain all the parts of your system and answer your list of questions. In the end this will save you time trying to guess what's going on.
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You should've stopped there! Betcha didn't think you would start world war 3. Some of these flames are so funny, I almost peed myself.
Happy Holidays.
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Retard- Bubba, You cant even read! I never stated "Fully Modulating" . You are such an idiot Buba. So what Is "fully modulating" but who cares I never mentioned it.
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On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 06:31:58 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (m Ransley) wrote:

You dont know. Thats why you are a stupid retarted webtv homemoaner. You always will be. It must really suck to be you. By the way, dickhead, reread my post. I never said you had fully modulating. I merely pointed out a Weil McLain you had no clue about. Ive installed more of them than you will ever imagine. Go figure. Bubba
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More inserted.
--

Christopher A. Young
Keep Jesus Christ in CHRISTmas
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