Black Pipe pressure test - lost 0.5 PSI Over night

Hi,
I am planning to install the BP for myhouse myself.
For test, I did a test install using just a couple of joints and some BPs. I have bought a air test meter and I put 20 PSI in the pipe over night. Morning I have lost about 0.5 PSI.
Is this normal? due to temp? Or I need to tighten my pipes more..
Also, any advise on extending the wrench handle. I have 12 inch pipe wrench.. someone told me we can put a pipe as an extension and use it like 18 inch wrench.. Good idea?
BTW, in the above experiment I am using 1 inch pipe and 3/4 inch pipe. Used pipe compound also (Hercules compound, made for Gas line connections)..
Will appreciate any expert insight.. DJ
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Hi,
I am planning to install the BP for myhouse myself.
For test, I did a test install using just a couple of joints and some BPs. I have bought a air test meter and I put 20 PSI in the pipe over night. Morning I have lost about 0.5 PSI.
Is this normal? due to temp? Or I need to tighten my pipes more..
Also, any advise on extending the wrench handle. I have 12 inch pipe wrench.. someone told me we can put a pipe as an extension and use it like 18 inch wrench.. Good idea?
BTW, in the above experiment I am using 1 inch pipe and 3/4 inch pipe. Used pipe compound also (Hercules compound, made for Gas line connections)..
Will appreciate any expert insight.. DJ
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D J wrote:

The 1" pipe may need the 18" leverage, but don't overdo it.
How many feet of pipe were in your test setup? The length greatly affects pressure loss seen. Short lengths exaggerate any loss.
Whatever you are using to valve off the inlet to the test can also leak, so don't overlook that. Try some soapy solution on all joints to check for leakage. The commercial leak-test liquids work even better.
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Hi Jim,
Thanks for the reply.
It was not more than 3 feet install. I just tried to do an U connection. 1 inch, 3/4 inch pipe and used cap, elbow(decreasing) and then the gauge. You are right that the pressure gauge was losing some air, so i had to tighten t too. also used compound there. I also used a soapy water and did not see any immediate bubble. But, as you mention i may try the professional solution. this time I used my kid's bubble solution..
It is difficult job but not that difficult. From your experience, do you suggest to start the piping from the appliance end or from the main gas meter connection end... i am thinking to start from appliance end and fitting one by one and testing in between for air leaks..
Also, was thinking to get some extra hands if needed to.. I tried my best, but not sure if my best was good enough.. that's why I am doing all kind of checks, before putting it final.
regards, DJ
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D J wrote:

Normally done from the meter and branching down in size as you go.
If there is a possibility of other appliances being added later, include a couple of TEE's in the 1" line along the route.
Don't forget to make a "dirt leg" or "drip" just before the appliance. Here is one example, but local requirements vary widely: http://www.ketteringoh.org/newweb/pdfs/planning/water_heater_info.pdf
Jim
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It only has to hold 10 psi for 15 minutes. no noticable loss in that time frame is good to go.
s

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Thx Mr. Barker and Jim.
I think the experiment I did can very easily pass the 15 minute test. I have put 20 PSI and after 24 hours on same time, it's sill 20 PSI.
After Jim's reply to the drain dip (which I did not consider before), I will include that in my design too. Now just wondering if there are requirement for the ball valves. I am going to install one for each appliance but was just curious to know if there are any specific requirement for that regarding the height requirement or something like that..
Jim - thanks for the hint for the T, I may consider put one connection for future use in my future bath room upstairs.
Thanks, DJ
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