Black drywall screws and metal slivers

I have always hated drywall screws, especially the black ones. It never fails, as soon as I use a few of them my fingers are full of tint metal slivers that are harder than heck to remove because they are nearly invisible, yet they hurt like hell. Apparently they are from the manufacturing where they are threaded and they are not cleaned very well. There is no way to put them in without holding them and spinning them between ones fingers until they are started in the wood or whatever material. That just makes for slivers and there is no way to avoid them. Once I use up the ones I have left, I will never buy another black one. They will all be galvanized from now on. The galvanized ones are more costly but the galvanizing must get rid of the metal slivers.
Anyone have any comments, tips, further cus words about them, or any useful suggestions?
Alvin
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On Sep 22, 6:24 am, snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote:

That is the price we pay for imported crap! Another one is the quality of tie-wraps...tighten them and they break! Panduit ties (originals) would never break. Now I think they import them...even though it says Made in USA on the bag!
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

You can buy good tie wraps it just won't be at the big box store.
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snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote:

I have never gotten a sliver. I use a screwdriver to turn them, not my fingers.
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dadiOH
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wrote:

Yeah -- use a screwdriver instead of your fingers, and you won't get slivers.
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Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote:

Magnetic bits or full-blown screw holder...
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On Sep 22, 9:24 am, snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote:

Never had that problem. The screws we get here (no idea where they come from) are black and have Philips heads. Generally put them in location on the tip of the driver (either a hand driver, dry wall gun or a regular electric drill) give it a little push or a slight hand tap and start turning. Occasionally in a difficult to reach or awkward location may make a little hole in dry-wall with a nail, park the screw in that and then reach up and screw it in. Bigger problem especially of not using a proper dry wall 'gun' (cos don't do enough to warrant one) is putting them in too deep! Doing a few today; but may also use a few dry-wall nails. Sometimes seems easier to 'hang' a smaller piece of dry-wall on a couple of nails and then go it with the screws.
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Besides drilling a pilot hole, you need one of these.
http://tinyurl.com/2jsqsn
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com /(sq03kafgntga1wu4jnmjtm45)/ProductDetails.aspx?Source=GoogleSM&SKU 60580

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On Sat, 22 Sep 2007 06:24:21 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote:

I suspect it is the black coating that does this. I have had the problem too. Sometimes just handling these things will get you stuck. If you get the brands that have a shiny coating they are less likely to have the burrs. The galvanized deck screws are stronger than drywall screws and really more suited for putting wood projects together. I think people just gravitate to drywall screws because the drywall screws are cheap. You do get what you pay for.
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On Sep 22, 6:24 am, snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote:

I use a highly magnetized "dimpleing" bit so I dont have to spin them in hand. The hard trim screws are same way.
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