I can't clear it with a snake anyway. It's an old tub drain with a metal
plate across the opening about 1" down from the rim which now has a hairline
crack from the time I was dumb enough to think I was going to be able to
remove and replace it without damaging anything. I spent a long time
staring at the ceiling in the basement thinking about this today, and the
solution options aren't very good.
I believe the only way to counter the fact that the waste stack didn't
settle with the rest of the house is to cut a section of the wastepipe out
equal to the amount that the rest of the house has settled and then
Fernco'ing it together.
Or I could keep plunging the SOB until it forces me to do something. )-"
Standing water seems to have really increased the tuberculation of the pipes
from rust. Right now there's a soft plastic screen over the drain to keep
almost any kind of debris out of the drainpipe. It's a bummer.
That sounds like something to consider. I had to read it twice to figure
out what you were saying but that would restore the pitch even though it
might not be code. I am pretty nervous about sawing a 2" thick ring out of
the huge vertical waste pipe so just working with the tub drain segment
itself has serious appeal.
Everything was fine (well, not really, but I was unaware) until I read this
thread and decided to check the pitch of the tub drain pipe because it
needing plunging again today. Darn!
Hey, relax. Everything is still copasetic.
Even with correct pitch - which isn't much pitch at all - tub/shower
drains tend to clog with hair. Mostly long hair at that.
Soap scum attaches to that.
I had to plunge mine occasionally, maybe every couple years.
Using bubble bath helps cut down the soap scum. I used a dose of dish
detergent in my bath for years, but my wife makes me use her bubble
bath. Says using dish detergent isn't "natural."
After I plunge to loosen the hair/scum, I run hot water through the
drain, then pour maybe a cup of dish detergent down the drain, and
flush again. More hot water, another cup of dish detergent, then let
it sit awhile. Put in the plug, fill the tub with hot water only,
then pull the plug. Might burn your arm a bit if it a rubber plug.
Course you could just tie a string to the plug ring, but that's no
Flows well again, then gradually slows until it's intolerable.
Bought a couple of these about a year ago.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
One for laundry tub to catch lint, because I had to unclog that drain
too, and one for the bath tub.
Look like the ones grandma and ma used 60 years ago, but you don't see
them in stores, at least I don't. Also, this works with the bath tub
pop-up drain plug.
Of course you have to clean it after each use.
I see people complaining in the Amazon reviews that "they have to
clean it or it stops working." Jesus H. Christ.
Wife wipes the hair/scum off with toilet paper after her bath.
I don't use it.
Don't know how she cleans the one on the laundry tub, but she does.
I can say they're working, because neither drain has slowed down
since. So it's the long hair in the bath and lint/threads coming out
of the washing machine that clog the drains.
But I bet you knew that already.
On Tue, 6 Aug 2013 13:53:07 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
Since she helped me snake the drain there, and saw it was all lint
blocking it, and talked about how that should be filtered, don't think
Pretty sure she holds it over the trash container by the tub and rubs
it off into there. I know she's bitched once about having to reach
into the water and pull out drek because it got clogged and she was
afraid the tub could overflow.
Once. So I figure she solved that by regular cleaning.
But I'll ask.
You were closer than me. I was over by the wash tub, and didn't see
the strainer anywhere. I asked her, and she said it was around
somewhere, but she wasn't using it.
Said the wash cycle draining clogged it enough she was worried about
the rinse cycle overflowing the tub. She didn't want to babysit the
cycles. Also said it was a PITA to clean.
I said "You know that drain is going to clog up again?"
She said "Yeah" in a guilty tone.
I left it at that. She's got plenty of other stuff to worry about.
Next time she does the wash I'l babysit it and figure it out. I don't
think the rinse cycle will overflow the tub. It's a big one.
I'll see how long the tub takes to finally drain, and figure out an
easy way to clean the strainer.
No, I won't be turning it over and rinsing the lint down the drain.
The water supply is about 5.25" above the floor. It connects to the
bottom of the tank, which is 15" above the floor. Everything is dry there.
The off-vertical wall I mentioned is an interior wall (no window). The
outside ones are much closer to vertical. A uniform slope (i.e., the
same on both side of the window) wouldn't cause a problem.
The house was built in 1969 on a slab. When I bought it in 2000, I
immediately changed all window, mainly to save energy. Perhaps the
original ones had become hard to operate, but that was not a factor.
Really? Since windows have to be installed plumb to both operate smoothly
and be covered under their warranty, I can foresee problems with a out of
plumb wall. Somewhere along the way, something isn't going to fit right.
With a plumb window in an out of plumb wall, some trim or some framing or
something is going to be "a problem".
So did you install the windows plumb or did you match the slope of the
wall? If you installed the windows the right way (plumb) then how did you
deal with the trim, such as the interior stops?
I'm missing something. If I go to a window showroom and take an
uninstalled window and lay it horizontally, why shouldn't the sashes
work as long as nothing is trying to distort (twist or rack) the frame
from its rectangular shape?
I can't answer these questions. I hired a pro to install 11 double-hung
windows, one entry door, one sliding patio door, and one bay window to
replace two side-by-side double-hung windows. I haven't had problems
with the operation of anything.
For a list of problems that might occur with various types of windows if
they are not installed square, level and plumb, read section 2 of this
In addition, check the warranty data from just about any window company.
They will typically state that failure to install the window square, level
and plumb will void the warranty.
Yes, the sashes may "work" if the window is laid horizontally, but the
locks may not, the weather stripping may not do it's job, condensation may
flow to where it is not designed to flow, etc.
Remember, gravity sucks. A out of plumb window will have the force of
gravity acting on it in ways it was not designed for.
Thanks for the link. Looking at Figures A, B, and C, none check that the
wall is plumb. Zoom in on Figure A, and you'll see that the two bubbles
in each level could be centered, but the wall itself could be out of
plumb. For checking the wall, one of the levels would have to be turned
90 degrees. The instructions don't really address wall plumbness.
Sorry for asking, I should have known you checked but leaks can be so
insidious - like a chain of sugar ants going up electrical cords, under
cabinet edges, snaking through tiny holes, etc. Someone should invent a
spray that goes on like a white powder and when water hits it, it turns
I remember trying to track down a leak in a double basin sink and I would
dry everything off, run water into the sink and magically the pipes would be
wet again. It wasn't until I undid everything that I discovered one end of
a T fitting was only press-fit, not solvent welded.
In my case the back has dropped 2". Back and front windows are still
square, but side windows are devolving into parallegrams. Very hard to open
Did the same when I bought my house. The originals were double hung with
sash weights from 1941 and had six poorly-caulked individual panes to each
half. The unexpected benefit of double-pane Andersens was how quiet it got
with the windows tightly closed. The heating bill dropped like a paralyzed
I've had a similar problem. In addition to the shower, the washing
machine empties into a standpipe and joins the toilet and shower.
Twice, the washer backed it up enough that water came back into the
shower pan and around the toilet. I attribute it to a family member
that uses a LOT of paper and cause a partial blockage. The surge of
laundry water eventually flushed it out, but it happened again a few
In your case, the blockage may have been flushed out before you did
There is normally a gap at the back to allow water to emerge if the
toilet drain leaks. We had the same problem, along with a bad sewer
line, in our condo....when the ring was replaced, the toilet back on,
the plumber told us it was best to use grout, not caulk, around the base
of the toilet.....firmer and keeps toilet from moving better than caulk.
Is shower composite bottom or ceramic tile?
Possibly a leak in shower floor at edge of pan migrating to the tile
to concrete seal under the toilet flange.
Silicone grout sealer applied to shower floor and floor/'wall joints
may stop water migration.
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