Bizarre idea (um, maybe) on driveway "patching"

My driveway was laid 30-odd years ago with, it think, redwood used as expansion joints. Needless to say, the wood has disintegrated, decomposed, and is singing in the heavenly choir. Weeds in the cracks are the result. String-trimming followed by Round Up is the usual next step. Fooey.

Ruminating on how to deal - permanently - with the ugliness, several obvious possibilities come to mind:

  • Pressure-wash out the decayed elements and insert wood replacements. This will be a LOT of work inasmuch as I have about 300 feet of joints. Not to mention the not-insignificant expense.

  • Obtain several rolls of press-in rubber/plastic tubing made by "Trim-A-Slab" ( think that's the name). It comes in 50' rolls (at 9.99 per roll at Ace Hardware) which is press-fitted into the gap between concrete sections. Obviously even MORE expensive than the aforementioned wood solution.

Finally, I came up with an idea which, on the surface, seems to be ideal: Roofing patch.

One could, I assume, just pour the tar-like material into the crack where it would: a) Double-sticky itself and seal to the edges of the concrete, and b) Harden sufficiently so that it would not adhere to tires or shoes or the dog.

On the experimental level, it might take several differing products to zero in on the best one for the project, but, if a tar-type sealant works, it should be cheap(er), easy to apply, and an adequate weed-preventative.

Your thoughts, results of a similar project, and warnings, would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
HeyBub
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I would do some googling for driveway crack repair products. I know I've seen filler products that are long, round, maybe 5/8" or so in diameter made to fill gaps like that. One type you applied it, then used a torch to melt and bind it in.

Reply to
trader4

2" or 4" holes? If they used 2x's, then I'd go with your tar idea-- If 4x I'd use cold patch and a prayer.

Well, the most 'permanent' measure would be to use some cement/concrete. The right guy could make it look like he used redwood-- and you could have a cold beverage or two while he did it.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

They sell a bagged asphalt product that contains stone and tar with a solvent base. It is kind of a self leveling product. I have used it to fill in several different types of expansion joints. Clean out the space to allow some mass for the material - pour/sweep material into the crack. I have been able to use a tire to compact the material - a two wheel dolly with a lot of weight, a wheel barrow , or similar. Where I have used it, it has stuck well and lasted over 10 years.

Reply to
DanG

If you are talking about the stuff that comes in a can, it never gets hard. You would be better off buying some tar, heating it in a pot until it melts and then pouring that in.

Reply to
dadiOH

Thanks. Sounds like what I want. But your post generates two questions:

  • Who is "they"? and
  • What is the name of this product?

Thanks again.

Reply to
HeyBub

My asphalt expert is busy with family matters at the moment, but I think you have to heat an asphalt product to ~350F to get it to pour. -----

- gpsman

Reply to
gpsman

Local hardware stores, building supplies, big box stores should all have some sort of driveway crack repair product that would be similar to what was described, and/or should be perfectly suitable for this application.

Look for driveway crack repair kits with a foam backer that you pack into the crack, then cover with a tar-like substance that adheres to the asphalt and cures into a flexible yet durable substance.

Reply to
dennisgauge

I've tried. At Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace. I can find nothing resembling your description.

Reply to
HeyBub

HeyBub:

I don't know if you'll find any driveway crack repair kits with foam backer rod somehow attached to anything, but I agree with Dennis Gauge that the best solution is to use foam backer rod, and then if you want caulk over that foam backer rod.

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Look under Caulk and Caulking Supplies in your yellow pages, and any place listed there will sell foam backer rod or know who does. You typically choose foam backer rod that's 25 to 50 percent larger in diameter than the crack you want to fill.

You push it into your crevice, and then caulk over it with any suitable caulk.

My favourite caulk is called Kop-R-Lastic, and this would be a great application for it. Kop-R-Lastic is both waterproof and highly UV resistant, sticks well to concrete and foam backer rod, and it tools very nicely with a soapy finger.

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The Henry Company distributes Kop-R-Lastic in the USA. Maybe find their

1-800 phone number on their web site and see who sells it in your area. It comes in 8 different colours.
Reply to
nestork

I believe sak-crete makes it, among others.

Reply to
clare

There is also a large squeeze tube of self leveling gray gunk. I see it used around buildings joining cement slabs.

Reply to
gregz

Available at Home Depot and Lowes, among other places.

Reply to
Robert Neville

Boy, this is rocket science, isn't it:

Reply to
DanG

yoU'RE assuming this too, that it won't adhere. If it does, what a mess. Maybe for years to come.

If you are committed to this method, get a little of the stuff and fill a shallow litle wood** box with it and put it out in the hot sun all the time this summer, to see how much it does harden. Put some concrete with it

**Wood so the box doesn't fall apart and you'll have tar whereever it was.
Reply to
micky

around here pros spread a little bit of sand over fresh crack filler so it doesnt stick to stuff, like shoes

Reply to
bob haller

Not the bagged "quick' type found at the home stores. A warm day is enough. I've used it to fill depressions in my driveway. I fill the depression with the mix until it is mounded a little higher than the surrounding asphalt, then place a piece of 3/8" plywood over it and drive my car onto the plywood so that the front wheel is sitting over the patch spot. Note: Wipe some motor or other oil on the area of the plywood that will sit on the patch so the patch doesn't stick to the plywood when you remove it.

Reply to
willshak

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