Better than PB Blaster

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wrote:

I've found WATER is as good a penetrant as anything if used right. Soaking for a long time sometimes works, but heating the seized part then quenching with water generally shatters the crystaline structure of the rust enough to allow the fastener to be easily removed.
YMMV
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On Fri, 6 Aug 2010 05:58:39 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

How come none of us just dip our entire cars in penetrating oil about twice a year?
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wrote:

My experience with the RostOff is also excellent - it's pricy and not easy to find, but it sure works.
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snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

This is interesting-- I just noticed it was 2007, so I was pretty sure I'd find it someplace on the web. The first reference to it I found was here- http://sterkel.org/papers/vintage/Testing_Penetrating_Oils.pdf
Essentially your post- but with this addendum; "Note from original article author: 1) These are loads required to free the test piece after 8 hours of immersion in penetrating oil. This is probably not representative of a quick squirt just before a wrench is applied. 2) The original article states ATF was used in the DIY mix. It was actually PSF. I corrected the table to reflect this."
Hmmm-- I've used ATF[straight] before-- never PSF, though.
Then I found this- allegedly by the author of the article, Lloyd Bender; http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t '429&page=2&highlight=penetrating+acetone+test [message #18]
"Allow me to appologize one more time. The test material was intended to be automatic transmission fluid. In the auto parts department, I grabbed a bottle of power steering fluid by mistake. If you read the article, the power steering fluid shown was used. The table you quoted has not been corrected."
And here is someone who actually read the article- http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&tI687&start=0 "He used steel dowel pins in a steel block, rusted for 12 hours in salt water, soaked in the oils for 12 hours, then measured the force needed to push the pins." "I set up a study as he did although I used larger numbers of pins, and added two groups of bolts and nuts. I let the parts rust for 6 months and tested the oils. I used acetone-ATF since that is what he was wrongfully reported to have used. " "There were no statistically significant differences between Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Wal Mart, or the acetone-atf mix. They did loosen the nuts and the pins, they were better than nothing but all performed the same. "
He also noted that acetone and ATF don't mix.
I have stuff to do & still haven't found the article. If someone does- could they post a link.
I wish magazines would sell individual articles like some newspapers now do- I'd be happy to pay a few bucks for a single article- but don't feel like chasing all over looking for it.
Jim
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On 8/6/2010 6:27 AM, snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

I'd have to call BS on that test. There's no way that wd40, which is basically kerosene, is gonna work 'nearly' as good as PB. PB is a fine product that actually works. I do believe the atf/acetone thing however.
--
Steve Barker
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Ever try a few drops of Brake Fluid on that rusty doo dad?
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Salty... Here is the King of rust busters. I used this when in the appliance repair work. Worked on a rusted ball bearing on a steel shaft. Could not budge with a 10 ton press. A few drops on it and a light tapping to let the fluid flow into joint and boil out the rust. Then removed bearing with finger pressure. I was getting it from a appliance parts place. Now retired for 27 years I found it at WalMart. Customline Rust Buster in a long spout bottle. Company is PG ASSCO.NewYork. See if you can Google for it. WW
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