This is pretty wild. 50/50% mix of ATF and Acetone is twice as
effective as the 2nd best, Kroil, and 4 times as effective as PB
"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of
penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen
rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the
test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of
pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."
On Aug 6, 10:11 am, email@example.com (Doug Miller) wrote:
I knew it would only be a matter of time before the "all hail pb
blaster" crowd came out, haha.
I think any thinned oil/petroleum product is going to be about as
effective as another. The key is getting it completely into the
PB Blaster *is* pretty good stuff. I remember using CRC 5-56 when I was
younger, but I haven't seen that around for a long time. Either one is waaaay
better than WD-40. I never found Liquid Wrench to be much good, though. Never
I disagree. WD-40 is IMHO markedly inferior to PBB or CRC as a penetrating
And that's the reason why--it isn't nearly as good as a penetrant
because it wasn't designed/intended to be. The others altho I don't
have data at hand, all seem to me to have much lower surface tension and
probably viscosity which is what helps in getting where it can do some good.
Although I've not ever seen _any_ product (and used all in the list
above plus many others) that actually shows any indication of having
reached the interior portions of a rusted fastener; they do help by
lubricating that area that is rusted above the nut or if one can "loosen
by first tightening" that area gets some help which often is the most
resistant portion of all. Then again, I've not had the luxury of
waiting for days in general; when a farm implement breaks or needs
repair, it needs it _now_ almost always.
I did, in fact, just this spring. My son and I were rebuilding the
transmission on his car, and needed a solvent that would clean transmission
fluid off of various parts. Acetone *does not* mix with Dexron-III. Naphtha
does. But not acetone.
On Sat, 07 Aug 2010 00:44:21 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Doug Miller)
used to use Dexron 2, Kero, varsol, and Acetone in equal amounts and
that mix DID work. It's known as Ed's Red. Perhaps the kero and varsol
aid in the mixing, or perhaps the old Dexron mixed better - I don't
know. But the 4 way mixture sure mixed well, and stayed mixed.
Darn good penetrant too, and the ATF left enough oil behind to resist
I have been using Ed's Red for about 15 years when I got the mix from him
off the old Fido net, Way back before the Al Gore 'invented' the internet.
It works very well for many things.
The acetone seems to stay mixed in it. Might have to do with all the other
items in the mix.
On Aug 6, 3:10 pm, email@example.com wrote:
Back to Chem 101 dude. You have two words wrong in your statement:
aromatic and hydrocarbon. By strict definition, hydrocarbons contain
only carbon and hydrogen which acetone does not. Aromatic refers to
compounds with ring structures like benzene, toluene and the like.
Acetone can correctly be considered a polar compound, hydrocarbons are
considered the opposite, non polar.
With it's penchant for water miscibility acetone is a very poor choice
for mixing with any strictly hydrocarbon fluid like PSF, ATF or
And that's a fact.
On Aug 6, 7:27 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I have heard the same from an auto-related forum that I follow. I'm
surprised at the large disparity between PB Blaster and LW/Kroil. I
always considered PB to be a decent penetrating oil but have never had
good luck with WD-40.
I've also used a torch and candle wax in the past with success, and
also Wuerth Rost Off. I would have been interested to see how those
tested against other penetrating oils, esp. the Wuerth product as in
my experience with it it is excellent.
If only we always had that luxury :/
I've also found a good set of drill bits, a grinder or flat file, a
center punch, and a tap and die set to be the appropriate "penetrating
oil" at times :(
I hope that everyone that has bought a car from me appreciates my
penchant for using anti-seize on everything :)
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