Better than PB Blaster

This is pretty wild. 50/50% mix of ATF and Acetone is twice as effective as the 2nd best, Kroil, and 4 times as effective as PB Blaster!

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce None ................. 516 pounds . WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25 PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35 Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21 Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75 ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

Reply to
salty
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Interesting closeness for pb and wd. The only problem with atf/ acetone is you have to be careful what you get it on.

Reply to
jamesgangnc

The best thing I've ever used is SUPCO88.

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TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

I have heard the same from an auto-related forum that I follow. I'm surprised at the large disparity between PB Blaster and LW/Kroil. I always considered PB to be a decent penetrating oil but have never had good luck with WD-40.

I've also used a torch and candle wax in the past with success, and also Wuerth Rost Off. I would have been interested to see how those tested against other penetrating oils, esp. the Wuerth product as in my experience with it it is excellent.

nate

Reply to
N8N

This is interesting-- I just noticed it was 2007, so I was pretty sure I'd find it someplace on the web. The first reference to it I found was here-

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Essentially your post- but with this addendum; "Note from original article author:

1) These are loads required to free the test piece after 8 hours of immersion in penetrating oil. This is probably not representative of a quick squirt just before a wrench is applied. 2) The original article states ATF was used in the DIY mix. It was actually PSF. I corrected the table to reflect this."

Hmmm-- I've used ATF[straight] before-- never PSF, though.

Then I found this- allegedly by the author of the article, Lloyd Bender;

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#18]

"Allow me to appologize one more time. The test material was intended to be automatic transmission fluid. In the auto parts department, I grabbed a bottle of power steering fluid by mistake. If you read the article, the power steering fluid shown was used. The table you quoted has not been corrected."

And here is someone who actually read the article-

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"He used steel dowel pins in a steel block, rusted for 12 hours in salt water, soaked in the oils for 12 hours, then measured the force needed to push the pins." "I set up a study as he did although I used larger numbers of pins, and added two groups of bolts and nuts. I let the parts rust for 6 months and tested the oils. I used acetone-ATF since that is what he was wrongfully reported to have used. " "There were no statistically significant differences between Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Wal Mart, or the acetone-atf mix. They did loosen the nuts and the pins, they were better than nothing but all performed the same. "

He also noted that acetone and ATF don't mix.

I have stuff to do & still haven't found the article. If someone does- could they post a link.

I wish magazines would sell individual articles like some newspapers now do- I'd be happy to pay a few bucks for a single article- but don't feel like chasing all over looking for it.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

I find anything works well if you can leave it on for a few days. I try to anticipate the need and soak it down ahead of time.

Reply to
jamesgangnc

If only we always had that luxury :/

I've also found a good set of drill bits, a grinder or flat file, a center punch, and a tap and die set to be the appropriate "penetrating oil" at times :(

I hope that everyone that has bought a car from me appreciates my penchant for using anti-seize on everything :)

nate

Reply to
N8N

I don't bother on the cars but on the boat and motorcycle I do.

Reply to
jamesgangnc

I'd have to call BS on that test. There's no way that wd40, which is basically kerosene, is gonna work 'nearly' as good as PB. PB is a fine product that actually works. I do believe the atf/acetone thing however.

Reply to
Steve Barker

Ever try a few drops of Brake Fluid on that rusty doo dad?

Reply to
Iowna Uass

I don't believe it for a minute -- starting with the fact that acetone won't dissolve in ATF.

Reply to
Doug Miller

I knew it would only be a matter of time before the "all hail pb blaster" crowd came out, haha.

I think any thinned oil/petroleum product is going to be about as effective as another. The key is getting it completely into the problem area.

Reply to
jamesgangnc

PB Blaster *is* pretty good stuff. I remember using CRC 5-56 when I was younger, but I haven't seen that around for a long time. Either one is waaaay better than WD-40. I never found Liquid Wrench to be much good, though. Never used Kroil.

I disagree. WD-40 is IMHO markedly inferior to PBB or CRC as a penetrating oil.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Salty... Here is the King of rust busters. I used this when in the appliance repair work. Worked on a rusted ball bearing on a steel shaft. Could not budge with a 10 ton press. A few drops on it and a light tapping to let the fluid flow into joint and boil out the rust. Then removed bearing with finger pressure. I was getting it from a appliance parts place. Now retired for 27 years I found it at WalMart. Customline Rust Buster in a long spout bottle. Company is PG ASSCO.NewYork. See if you can Google for it. WW

Reply to
WW

jamesgangnc wrote: ...

And that's the reason why--it isn't nearly as good as a penetrant because it wasn't designed/intended to be. The others altho I don't have data at hand, all seem to me to have much lower surface tension and probably viscosity which is what helps in getting where it can do some good.

Although I've not ever seen _any_ product (and used all in the list above plus many others) that actually shows any indication of having reached the interior portions of a rusted fastener; they do help by lubricating that area that is rusted above the nut or if one can "loosen by first tightening" that area gets some help which often is the most resistant portion of all. Then again, I've not had the luxury of waiting for days in general; when a farm implement breaks or needs repair, it needs it _now_ almost always.

--

Reply to
dpb

My experience with the RostOff is also excellent - it's pricy and not easy to find, but it sure works.

Reply to
clare

I've found WATER is as good a penetrant as anything if used right. Soaking for a long time sometimes works, but heating the seized part then quenching with water generally shatters the crystaline structure of the rust enough to allow the fastener to be easily removed.

YMMV

Reply to
clare

Fact??? Acetone is an aromatic organic hydrocarbon solvent that will mix with just about any other hydrocarbon liquid - as well as with water. I

Reply to
clare

Wrong. Acetone is an aliphatic organic solvent.

Try it.

I did, in fact, just this spring. My son and I were rebuilding the transmission on his car, and needed a solvent that would clean transmission fluid off of various parts. Acetone *does not* mix with Dexron-III. Naphtha does. But not acetone.

Reply to
Doug Miller

I've mixed it with Dexron II and with Mercon in the past.

Reply to
clare

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