I'm redoing my basement and came across a 2X8 joist that was notched at some point in the past.It is notched approx It is the last joist before the outside sill plate. As you can see it is close to the steel beam. What is the best way to repair it or strengthen it? I was thinking put another piece of 2X8 next to it, one end resting on the beam and extending a good 2 feet past the notch, fastening it with bolts and washers. Any inputs appreciated.
Your idea seems ok, you might want to raise the existing joist on the side away from the steel I-beam about 1/4 inch before connecting the parallel plate/joist as it will have a certain amount of "give"and by raising the existing joist, putting the plate in and then removing the raiser mechanism, the new pkate will have part of the load. Yoiu could raise the existing joist using a jackpost or even a 2x4 shoved under the joist at an angle and then moving the 2x4 to a more vertical position by hammering it toward vertical. A string and weight next to a ruler or even just a ruler can tell you when the existing joist is raised up the 1/4 inch.
If you have a floor jack in your garage, you can use it and a 2x4 to take the load off the existing joist before you sister it.
I fixed a broken rafter that way once in a poorly-built shed. Had to jack up not only the broken rafter but the ones next to it to get the roof nice and even again.
Use nails and glue instead of bolts. A bolt thru a hole will have too much play even when you tighten it.
-Bob
Bob
If you can....
Plan A---- run another joist the entire length and rest it on both ends at the same point the existing joist is resting. Basically you're replacing the existing joists load.
Plan B --- I would get a metal plate cut and drilled to span the gap, then bolt it to the existing joist.
Plan C ---- What you want to do. :-)
Caution... If you jack up the joist, be sure to check the floor above to see of any raising of the floor will effect anything. Sometimes raising only a fraction of an inch can make doors "out of plumb", therefore affecting their operation.
Hank
That sure is a scary picture. Just to make you think.
How long has it been that way? What problems has it caused? For what reason was it cut?
Do you really need to do anything?
Colbyt
I would move.
You have far too many different colored objects in that area for any repair of the joist to be effective.
I have my kitchen floor above with ceramic tiles. Thats my only concern about jacking up the joist with tiles cracking, getting loose.
I can't run another full length joist, too many obstructions.
Rather than use bolts, can I use lag screws?
At least 30 years.
None that I'm aware of
It was notched for a 2" PVC pipe that went outside to the sprinkler system. Below the picture used to be a pump with a pipe going in the ground.
I don't know. I figured now I had the walls opened, I would try to at least do something.
Almost as effective, and a lot less work, is to lay a 2X4 under the joist, well slathered with glue, and using a 4X4 on a jack, or a jackpost (I would NEVER use a 2X4 on end for that kind of jacking). jack the joist up so it is inline with the rest of the joists and spike the 2X4 to the bottom with a row of spikes, spaced about 6" apart. You would be building a "spar" or "truss" as strong as the original beam by using the 2X4 as a "spar cap" in tension.
Whoever did that notch sure didn't have any concept of what they were doing!!!
I don't see why lag screws wouldn't work, just make sure you pre-drill the correct size hole.
I lagged some "modern-day" 2 x 4's to the 50 YO 2 x 4 studs in my garage for shelving. New wood to new wood was a breeze but I snapped the heads off a couple of lags using the same sized hole in the older wood. It was much, much harder and required a slightly larger hole.
I would also make sure there were some threads in both pieces of wood. I don't think that you would want all smooth shaft in either piece as the threads would hold everything in place better.
You say you have the walls opened. If this is in a wall, simply support it on both sides with studs.
If it hasn't gone anywhere in 30 years, it's unlikely to now. However, I'd do something about it too.
By this, do you mean that the gray object slightly closer to the camera than the notched beam is a structural steel beam? If it's a full length beam that the flooring above sits on, then I'm not sure the wood beam is worth worrying about. I would ask for other opinions after answering that question though. I'm no engineer.
Or use a piece of 1/4" steel flat bar to close up the bottom. Put some tension on the steel if you can. But even without tension, it would hold the joist together if it ever decides to break. And most importantly, it would *look* a lot safer than what you have now :-)
-Bob
Lag screws would be better than bolts. Bolts have a small, but significant, wobble-factor.
Don't forget to slather the sucker with about a quart of glue. Maybe some strapping...
Whatever technique you use for attaching, scab or sister that joist on both sides, not just one side.
Sonny
Why?
Whatever you do will be better than what you have. Screws should be ok. Put constrcution adhesive between the boards.
Hank
One more thing.....
If you can sandwich a piece of plywood ( the thicker the better, the longer the better) between the 2 boards with adhesive, that will fix your problem for sure.
Hank
When you say adhesive, is liquid nails good?
Yes that is a steel beam spanning the center of the basement with joists running perpendicular.
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