best way to repair door knob holes?

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The highest dewpoint to meet ASHRAE's definition of neutral air is 60F, but the trend seems to be moving towards 57F as a max ventilation dewpoint.
Ecpnomizers can pump humidity into buildings if they respond to temperature alone.
Outdoor dewpoint being higher than indoor wall temp means you need to control infiltration else you have condnesation inside wall cavities.
In summer exterior walls would be warmer than indoor drybulb
snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

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Chinese peeled garlic costs $2 per pound.

And igloos would melt.
Nick
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wrote:

Very good! But it's in the molding, you know.
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--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info
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I don't live in Philadelphia. What should I do?

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plug in temps for your local area .....
http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0004587.html
Steve Spence Dir., Green Trust http://www.green-trust.org
Bughunter wrote:

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    Rejoice.
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me 'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm / Free Temperature / Pressure charts for 38 Ref's http://pmilligan.net/pmtherm /
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The people of Philly will be happy to send you some of their hot and humid summer air. Just pay the postage.
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wrote:

    Who do they ship with, Airborne ?
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me 'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm / Free Temperature / Pressure charts for 38 Ref's http://pmilligan.net/pmtherm /
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Don't use a humidifier. Those things are too expensive to run.
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The solution for the Philadelphia climate is big-ass Trane or Carrier.
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Robert Morein wrote:

it was (humidity didn't mean anything to a 6 1/2 year old boy), but now I am sure that is why. Moved there from the cold and windy lake shore in Buffalo, and I can remember that that also. Moved from Philly to Indianapolis Ind. which has typical midwestern climate and eventually relocated to Southern Calif. which I thought as a kid, that I had gone to heaven, because I could bike the 3.5 mi. to the beach.
Now I live in a place that really gets hot in the summer (last year I measured 93 days with a peak over 95 deg.), but the humidity rarely is over 25% unless it is winter, (rains or foggy for 3 months with temps below 50). This last fall was 3 days long. It went from a 94 deg Tuesday to a 46 degree Friday in mid Oct. and today it got back to 63 for the 1st time this year.
Air conditioning is a major requirement and expense, especially considering we have the highest power rates in the US. Mine varies from a wintertime low of $0.08966 (minimum Off peak use) to a high of $0.17941 (maximum On peak use) to a summertime low of $0.08664 (minimum Off peak use) to a high of $0.38347 (maximum On peak use).
These rates are for 1kWh of power. On peak use is power consumed on weekdays between noon and 6 PM. Where you fit on the 5 steps between the minimum and maximum rate applied depends on how much power you use in excess of the power companies arbitrary and theoretical residential baseline that they have established for the climatological area that you live in.
It does not take into account the number of people living in the residence, or the size of the residence. It does make an allowance if a resident requires some durable medical equipment that runs on electricity (iron lungs, oxygen concentrators, you get the idea....) and this is NOT a discount, it just raises the amount of electricity you can use at each step between the minimum and maximum rate.
If you think it sounds complex, it is and they don't always understand it either, it took me about 3 months to get a spreadsheet put together that will actually pre-calculate my bill correctly. I don't trust the utility, I have actually found a few discrepancies that the utility later corrected or modified their CPUC rate filings to conform with, so the filings said what was needed, in order to reflect the utilities actual practices.
In the course of this I discovered a whole house fan saved me over $170 a year. I run mine whenever the outside air is cooler than the air conditioner cooling set point by 3 to 5 degrees. I have found by experience if there is not this differential, the fan is needed longer. Also, my fan is a 2 speed unit and if the daytime maximum did NOT exceed 95 deg. the low speed fan will pull enough air to cool the house, but the high speed will be needed if the daytime DID exceed 95. Fortunately the nighttime temperature in Fresno will almost always drop below 75 (it didn't 2 nights in 2004, and 1 in 2003), and you can start the fan before 1 AM usually and run it until it starts to get hot or the outside temperature gets above your inside morning set point for the air conditioner (I use 72).
A bit of a pain, But significant savings.
--
Jim Baber
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<DIV><BR><BR>&gt;Now I live in a place that really gets hot in the summer (last year I measured 93 days with a peak over 95 deg.),</DIV> <DIV>&gt;&nbsp;but the humidity rarely is over 25% unless it is winter, (rains or foggy for 3 months with temps below 50).&nbsp; This last fall was 3 days long. It went &gt;from a 94 deg Tuesday to a 46 degree Friday in mid Oct. and today it got back to 63 for the 1st time this year.<BR><BR>&gt;Air conditioning is a major requirement and expense, especially considering we have the highest power rates in the US.</DIV> <DIV>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mine varies from a wintertime low of $0.08966 (minimum Off peak use) to a high of $0.17941 (maximum On peak use)&nbsp; <BR>&gt;&nbsp; to a summertime low of $0.08664 (minimum Off peak use) to a high of $0.38347 (maximum On peak use).<BR><BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Our solution is to shut off our central AC at night and run a high-quality bedroom unit.&nbsp; Of course, we only need to cool one bedroom.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Vaughn</FONT></DIV><PRE class=moz-signature cols="80">&nbsp;</PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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That works well in an area of low humidity. I do it here in CT. When I lived in Philly, the outside temperature did not go down all that much at night and remained humid. Just 15 miles away there was a much more dramatic differential as you did not have the big concrete and asphalt heat sinks of the city.
I recall as kids in the pre AC days, we would sleep downstairs as it was considerably cooler.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

remember days when you you could not dry off because of the humidity.
My brother worked for a year in Bahrain. He has told of days, when if you went outside, the moisture would condense out of the humid air onto you just like onto a coke can.
Makes horrible sense, if your temperature is 98.6 and the air temp is 125 and the humidity is 98 to 99 %, some of that moisture is going to condense out on the colder you. Must be what I remember happening in that long ago upstairs bathroom in Indianapolis on very hot summer days.
--
Jim Baber
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jj3000 wrote:

Best solution I've tried: http://www.knobnest.com / Even lets the door open just a little wider too. Plus, you don't have to match mud texture and paint.
--
Grandpa Koca - SAHD for 6 - Keeper of the Perpetual Kindergarten

My opinion is neither copyrighted nor trademarked. It is price
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NEAT IDEA!

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On 7 Feb 2005 17:11:28 -0800, jeremy snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com (jj3000) wrote:

You should not have this made this hole in the first place, if you had not kept banging your knob into the wall. Now you got a hole to poke your knob and you should be happy. Dont fix it, you'll miss it and your knob will continue to get erect, and you'll have no place to relieve it.
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