Best way to cut glass??

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I've heard about scoring the glass on only one side and scoring it on both sides as the preferred way to cut/break glass. I've done it both ways. Anyone got any real insight into this matter????
H. R.(Bob) Hofmann
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score it on one side. break apart by pulling down on each side of the cut with the cut on the top surface, or break on a sharp edged tabletop if the piece of glass is large and the part you're cutting off is not small.
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wrote:

Any comments on scoring 1 side vs both sides before breaking??
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hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net wrote:

I've never heard of scoring on both sides, only one side. Could two-sides be for extremely thick glass?
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Any comments on scoring 1 side vs both sides before breaking??
--
yes.

don\'t score on both sides.
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charlie wrote:

Probably only applicable to laminated safety glass which also requires careful torch application for the plastic layer.
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wrote:

I should add that this particular piece of glass I am going to cut is double thickness from an old storm door. I know that the glass is NOT tempered.
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I should add that this particular piece of glass I am going to cut is double thickness from an old storm door. I know that the glass is NOT tempered.
--
i cut up to 1.5" glass usually. the score breaks the surface tension. you
bend away from the score, causing a compression of the bottom surface. if
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wrote:

..
I know because the other door of the pair of sliding glass doors had a nice neat crack running through it. Also, the doors were from about 40 years ago before the building codes were very strict. Thanks for your comments!!
Bob Hofmann
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wrote:

If it's not tempered (can't be cut), and it's not laminated (more complicated to cut), then cutting on both sides is entirely a waste of time.
BTW, you've set a record. I've never responded to a post that had four prior posts quoted with three of them by the OP. Congratulations!
R
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...
Being old can make it more difficult to get a good break. How old is old?
Good Luck.
--
Joseph Meehan

Dia \'s Muire duit
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On Fri, 11 Apr 2008 14:27:47 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net"

Old glass can be a lot harder to cut.
BTW, that building I talked about a few months ago that was being torn down had 4 mirrors 6 or 8 foot wide by 10 foot high each. To buy new would be 500 dollars a piece, 2000 total, I was told. Despite that, we offerred them free to a glass guy and he didn't want them. Too hard to use them without breaking them, or too hard to cut them for the next location without breaking them. They are 40 years old.
So we left them, and I suppose the new owner who is tearing the building down will too.
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For almost all glass, you score one side only and quickly snap it. I suggest a wood dowel rod under the score line. Don't take you time after you score it as the glass "heals" and becomes harder to break. Don't double score, that will make for an uneven break. Don't use old glass. Yea, the stuff does get old and it will be harder to get good breaks.
Special cases apply to plate and tempered glass. Do some practice and learn to do it fast, it is much easier that way.
--
Joseph Meehan

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Throw your mother in law into it. Get rid of both problems.
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Just scored one side along the equator of the 3 foot by 6 foot piece of glass, laid it on the ground over a 4 x 4 , with the score along one edge of the 4 x 4, turned around to do something else and crack - it broke perfectly along the score mark without me even touching it. Wish all my glass-breaking events went this well.
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On Fri, 11 Apr 2008 14:08:48 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net"

Clean the glass. Clean it a second time. Drizzle a line of kerosene on the line. Score. The scoring should sound like a continuous ripping. Put the score on the edge of a table and give it a quick snap. You could tap the glass along the score line if the glass is thick. I have not ever tried scoring both sides--don't need to. Always, protect your eyes.
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Phisherman wrote:

Wondered if someone would mention liquid. We always wet the score afterward with water, spit will do. Never heard of using kerosene. Most what I did was with glass tubing in the lab and it was unnecessary to score all around the tubing as water helped propagate the crack. With glass sheet you probably should score all the way - only one side. You break by pushing away from the crack. The crack will propagate to the other side. To avoid a sharp surface on cut glass in the lab, we would sand down with metal screen. A couple of quick passes would dull the cut glass.
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Frank wrote:

I have read instructions to dip cutter in kerosene .. have tried it, but noticed no difference. I have never seen instructions that advise cutting both sides, but it certainly makes sense for laminated glass.
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The kerosene works as a lubricant and coolant.
--
Joseph Meehan

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..

Good hints.
--
Joseph Meehan

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