Best way to cut 2x4's?

What's the "correct" way to cut 2x4's with a circular saw using a pair of foldable sawhorses? I need to make a straight cut in a way that won't bind the blade, so any suggestions for a setup will be appreciated.
Also, any suggestions for lopping off 2x4's and dividing up plywood on the grass?
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seems pretty simple, Dave - assuming you're not a troll. Bottom line in any wood cutting is to support large peices so they don't move during the cutting, which causes the blade to bind.
For the 2x4 cuts: place the LONGEST peice across the 2 sawhorses, leaving the shorter end hanging free. Make your cut allowing the short end to fall free. Never try to cut the peive BETWEEN the two sawhorses. If the short end is longer than a few inches it might be best to have a helper steady that peice as it is cut. They should not lift, pull, twist or otherwise try to move that end or it will bind. they should only allow the peice to rest on their hands and catch it as it falls free.
I prefer when cutting 2x4 ( or 2 x anything) to take the work closer to the ground. Place the peice to be cut across another 2x4 or scrap so the distance between the peice being cut and the ground is only a couple inches. That way the peice doesn't fall as far and is less likely to split or bind.
For the Plywood: I assume you are talking cutting a 4'x8' sheeet? Try placing a couple of your 2/4's under it. Assuming you don't care about a few small curfs in the 2x4's, set your blade just slightly deeper than the thickness of the plywood. and cut across the 2x4's allowing them to support the plywood as you cut.
Oh, and one last thing - as you place the saw to the work - but before you pull the trigger - look at what is directly BEHIND the saw. Any hands, feet, power cords, tools, kids, etc. within 5 feet of the back edge of the blade are at risk of being hit and/or cut if the saw binds and kicks back. Most people are so intent on watching what is in FRONT of the saw, they forget that the back edge of the blade is just as sharp!

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What's a good setup to guide the saw so it makes a straight cut across the 2x4? (Doesn't have to be perfectly straight like a table saw, but better than eyeballing...)
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snipped-for-privacy@nothome.com says...

With your opposite (left for me) hand, hold the 2x4 and a "speed square" against the edge of the 2x4. With your "correct" hand guide the circular saw against that.
--
Keith

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Use an angle square for a straight cut if you are having difficulty doing free hand. Hold or clamp it to the board to the left of the saw assuming you are right handed and use it as a guide for the footplate of the saw after lining up the blade to the cut mark. One side of the angle square has a lip on it to make it easy to hold firm against the board. Below is a link to what an angle square is if you are not sure. If you clamp it be sure the clamp will not get in the way of the saw. I usually hold the angle square/board with my left hand and use my right hand to operate the saw. If you are going to be doing many cuts create a template for the distance between the cut line and distance to angle square edge so that you can quickly determine where to position the angle square edge.--- Steve
(Amazon.com product link shortened)

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Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll
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need at least 3 sawhorses
2 to hold on the uncut side and one for the part being cut off.
he isnt a troll he just knows enough to ask a intelligent question
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So this would be a Mean Post
" The best method for the 2X4 would be a hand saw with a laser guide, The plywood on the lawn is a no brainier Put a 7 1/4" circular saw blade in a gas lawn edger. If you lay the plywood just right you can cut the plywood and edge the lawn all in one shot."
In that case Remember one thing The blade Cannot tell meat from wood. If your not familiar with circular saws get help or have the pieces precut. ( plywood can have a tendency to kick back) Someone I work with just had a skill saw run up his leg. Just take your time more fingers have been lost to over confidence.
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On Mon, 29 May 2006 15:37:58 GMT, "Sacramento Dave"

This one can: http://www.sawstop.com /

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wrote:

Wouldn't this require cutting between two sawhorses (between the first and second)?
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For the 2x4 let the end your cutting off drop, you want one end floating so you do not bind the blade. The ply wood would be easiest to cut on the saw horses ( guessing your cutting 4 by 8 sheets) Buy 4 extra 8' 2X4 lay them on saw horses to make a table set the blade to cute about 1/4" threw ply.. If your plywood cuts need to be decent you can clamp a straight edge on the plywood as a guide. hold the edge of the saw table against the straight edge you just have to measure the blade off set from the table edge and set you straight edge accordingly.
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On Mon, 29 May 2006 16:01:08 GMT, "Sacramento Dave"

Thanks for your reply. So do I lay these 4 8' 2x4's under the plywood and parallel to the length of the plywood and use them as "sacrificial" support (since 1/4" will be cut into them), or do I use them and form a square frame under and around the plywood if that's what you meant by "table"? Just wanted to clarify.
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Support the 2x4 (or any stock for that matter) such that both pieces are adequately supported following the cut. If the cut-off piece is small, there is no need to support the small piece. If the stock sags while the saw it cutting, you might experience dangerous kickback. It is a good idea to think about safety for a few seconds before each cut.
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Daves wrote:

If accuracy is must, use mitre saw.
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