Best way to anchor basement walls ?

What is the best way to secure/anchor the foot of a basement walls. Most remodeling books illustrate using masonry nails, but I have been told that all that does it shatter the concrete and create a divot ? Others state a better solution is to drill holes and use expansion anchors ? Maybe just use a bead of liquid nails ?
Anyone have any experience with this ?
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sid wrote:

The modern day method is PL400 and tapcons.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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When I had a project, I chose the structural adhesive. I had the advantage that the wall would be well secured to the joist above and the structural adhesive worked just fine.
--
Joseph Meehan

Dia \'s Muire duit
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Joseph Meehan wrote:

To elucidate on my previous terse post, the holding power of the PL400 is the real security of the system. The tapcons merely hold everything in place until the adhesive sets, then they become superfluous.
Framers generally select 'mostly' straight lumber (i.e; slightly curved, even some S curved) for the bottom plate, knowing that it will be attached and can be "made straight", while saving the straighter pieces of lumber for the top and upper plates. This allows the framer to use more of the lumber for something other than blocking and bracing. Having been raised that way, the bottom plate usually requires some straightening, thus the tapcons to hold it on the line, until the adhesive sets.
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Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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wrote:

For basement: Use KD Pressure-treated lumber for anything touching concrete walls or floors. If your PT is not dry, take it to someone who can dry it or sticker it and allow it to air-dry for 6-8 months. Wet lumber can cause all sorts of problems. You can use the special blue concrete screws with pre-drilled pilots plus construction adhesive. Tapcons are another alternative.
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Avoid the gunpowder charge nail guns as they can crack the slab.
I second the tapcon recommendations.
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The Reverend Natural Light wrote:

I've never seen that happen--must either be a poor slab or the wrong fastener/charge. The powder-actuated would be my first choice (but I have one so rental isn't needed).
Tapcon surely works but is a lot more trouble than necessary altho for a one-time deal if have the hammer-drill is undoubtedly cheaper and the drill is more useful in the long run if don't...
$0.02, imo, ymmv, etc., etc., ...
--
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It was an old slab - which might have been the problem. Some time later I read an article that suggested not using those on concrete more than a few years old. It's certainly the best tool for the job, but for the do-it-yourselfer I'd recommend a slower method based solely on my own screwup.
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The Reverend Natural Light wrote:

I've used them on very old and very hard slabs w/ no significant problem--I was going to modify the previous to say occasional chipping or similar, but I don't recall any time it was anything I thought more than a little cosmetic damage.
The only place I had real trouble one time was a very old slab w/ lots of very large and very hard aggregate--the stone was a bear. But, trying to use tapcon or something similar would have been tough, too.
The biggest disadvantage I see for the DIY'er is the rental and inexperience...
--


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Do I really need to use treated lumber on the walls just because they are in contact with the concrete ? I understand using a piece of pressure treated lumber on the bottom, but the studs as well ?
Thanks
Eli.
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wrote:

Do I really need to use treated lumber on the walls just because they are in contact with the concrete ? I understand using a piece of pressure treated lumber on the bottom, but the studs as well ?
Thanks
Eli.
If there is any chance that moisture will penetrate the concrete than you should use either a vapor barrior like plastic sheeting or a paint on concrete sealer or treated lumber. Else you could get a mold problem from constant condensation even if there is not a standing water leak.
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Moisture, I don't think so. This is new construction and the wall has a berm on the outside that slopes down to a retention pond that has a water level way lower than the floor of the basement. I don't see any water coming through that wall. Besides, I was going to cover the wall with Owens Formular 1" and then studs. Isn't the Owens pink foam board enough of a vapor barrier ?
If the only reason to use Tapcons is to hold the wall in place until the glue dries, What is the cure time of the glue ? If I don't plan to hang wallborad for a day or two after the glue is applied, do I really need Tapcons ?
Thanks
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On Mar 25, 2:36pm, The Reverend Natural Light

Only on old concrete. "Green" concrete, stuff that is <28 days old, the charge nails will penetrate with no issue.
Tapcons are awesome, though. Why didn't they come up with these 20 years ago?
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Only on old concrete. "Green" concrete, stuff that is <28 days old, the charge nails will penetrate with no issue.
Tapcons are awesome, though. Why didn't they come up with these 20 years ago?
Actually, I first saw them about 20 years ago.
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EXT wrote:

Green concrete or not, I've never seen a powder actuated fastener crack concrete. I suppose if it's really old poor quality concrete that's only 2" thick it might, but in that case it's just pointing out that you need to put in a proper slab.
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EXT wrote:

I always favored laying out the basement to make anchoring walls into slab a moot point. Anchor into an outside wall, trap a post in the wall, whatever. Even a short dogleg section will make a wall stay where it belongs, if you tie it off to the joists correctly. Even long straight runs were never a problem, with a good jam fit between slab and ceiling. Not like they are holding up anything, after all. -- aem sends...
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