best type of wedge for splitting logs

What is the most effective shape manual wedge for splitting logs for firewood? I'm trying to decide between diamond shape that split in two directions and the type with offset fins that split only in one direction.
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On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 02:24:02 -0800 (PST), Frank Thompson

That would depends a lot on the diameter of the log and length to be split. You get some big ass hunk of hickory, no way will you split it into four at a time.
I don't use a wedge at all, just a heavy splitting maul. I take a big piece of log and use that as my base, put the other wood on top of that and have at it. That way, the maul hits it at the proper angle. Be sure the wood is a bit dry and the best time is after a long freeze and the wood just pops with the right hit. Better exercise than any gym too.
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Also what kind of wood- how well it is seasoned, and what part of the tree it is from. In short- how much it wants to split at all.
Before you're done, Frank, you'll want them both-- but I think you'll get more use out of the 'one direction' ones.
When I had to worry about such things, my kit was 1. a splitting axe [not a maul] 2. 2-3 of the simple wedges 3. a 10 lb sledge 4. a 'pineapple' wedge 5. a few 'wedges' cut from 4" hickory, elm or locust branches.
If they didn't get me there, I had a ripping chain on a 1" saw that *would*.

Sometimes, when my neighbor is splitting wood, I have a slight urge to go over and pitch in for a spell. . . . but it passes.<g> [and if it doesn't I grab a shovel and head to the basement.]
Jim
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A 100 ft tall hickory that has been dead for several years (drought killed it). Large limbs had started to break off and bark had fallen off. I took it down last week. Base is about two feet thick. Lengths being split are about a foot and a half.

Got that right!
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wrote:

A 100 ft tall hickory that has been dead for several years (drought killed it). Large limbs had started to break off and bark had fallen off. I took it down last week. Base is about two feet thick. Lengths being split are about a foot and a half.

Got that right!
"when you split your own firewood, it warms you twice"
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I've heard three times. Cut/split, then haul, then burn.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .

Got that right!
"when you split your own firewood, it warms you twice"
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On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 05:01:47 -0800 (PST), Frank Thompson

I'd look into renting a splitter. Hickory is tough stuff and 2' diameter is going to be difficult.
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The "multi direction" splitting wedges are only useful on very easy splitting stuff.
Jim Elbrechts took kit is an excellent suggestion. I would add (and did) a Fiskars X27 splitting ax to it. That thing is amazing!
My progression in splittin a big round: Break it in half using wedge/ 10 lb sledge, Break each half dow the Maul or Fiskars depending on how easy it is splitting. Sometimes have to use the wedge?sledge on tto quarter it.
I have a hydraulic but prefer doing it manually for the excercise. I'm 77 overweight by about 60 pounds and if it wasn't for my daily hour out there I this time of year I'd get no excercise at all and problbably die of extreme obesity. Unless my "to be split" pile gets too big the only stuff the hydraulic splitter sees is dknots, crotches and other hard to split stuff.
1. Fall, clear and pile brush buck into rounds 2. load rounds into PU (89 F150 2x) 3. Unload and split/pile 4. Haul to woodshed or back porch. 5. Carry in to stove.
Since several of those involve handlign it more than once, e.g. hauling splits is load, haul, unload. I handle each chunk that hits the fire around 8-9 times.
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wrote:

*Much* better--- I wonder what that shorter handled one I posted has, that this one doesn't-- The x27 is $100 less (Amazon.com product link shortened) [comes in 24" & 28" -- i'm 6'2"- so the 36 would be the only one I'd use. That's some serious leverage!]
Jim
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http://www.forestry-suppliers.com /
has these also
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Thanks for the link to that site. I'll be browsing it even though I don't think I need to be buying anythign more at myi advanced age. Seem to have enough"toys" to keep me occupied.
That hookeroon is one of the last tools I would give up. It is such a back saver that Ihae walked 30 feet to retrieve it, vice bending over to roll a round 10' to the splitter :)
Harry K
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Each have their use at different times In some cases, you may need a couple of them to do the job
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'Frank Thompson[_2_ Wrote: > ;3001692']What is the most effective shape manual wedge for splitting > logs for

Frank:
I used to split a LOT of wood, and I can tell you that as long as your wood is dry and doesn't have any knots in it, then the best thing you can get is a fairly light axe.
That's because you don't need a lot of force to split dry straight wood, and it's just easier work if the tool you're using is lighter.
Those axes that have the two prongs that stick out to split the wood are a gimmick, and they don't help at all. If your wood is straight, then the wedging action of your axe blade will be enough to cause the wood to split along it's length. You don't need the little prongs.
Also, an axe with a cross shaped blade to split the wood 4 ways at the same time is another gimmick in my view. It just makes the job harder because the tool you're using is heavier cuz of the heavier axe head.
Just get yourself a normal axe, and not a very heavy one, and you're good. If your wood is straight and dry, that's all you're ever gonna need.
--
nestork


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That made me go Google 'splitting axe' [which I recommended]. WHOA!! That isn't what I meant.<g> I'm so old apparently that to me, axes come in 3 configurations- a felling axe, with a long handle, and a broad blade; trimming, with a somewhat smaller head, and shorter handle-- and 'splitting'- which is a long [straighter] handled axe with a narrower head, and a slightly wider 'wedge'.
Something like this- (Amazon.com product link shortened)
[And I'm going to go out and oil the antique I've got in the shed -- holy crap $140 for an axe?]

I agree-- I did occasionally use my 'grenade' wedge, though, when it wasn't obvious which way the wood was going to split. [most often had to free it with a standard wedge.

And I'd be watching estate sales for a decent setup-- I'm still in shock over that Fiskar's axe.
Jim
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Holy crap-- You're 101 yrs old?!<g>
The *logical* thing for you old farts is to get a gas stove like I did.<g>
Jim
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wrote:

Propane works.
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-snip-
I've got LP. I have to buy wood, so when I first put the LP stove in, I saved about 50% of what I spending on wood- and had 'no effort'- well regulated- cheap- heat.
Now the LP costs a little more than the wood -- but it is still a lot handier & cleaner. If I had a woodlot, my cheap side and lazy side would be dueling it out.'
Jim
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Mine is free...if you ignore the cost of saws, trucks, gas, time, etc. but then who's counting :)
Harry K
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wrote:

You're making me hungry I have a wood burning pit that I like to get going and toss a couple of steaks on.
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And the added savings in not needing to join a gymn to be bored to tears.
Harry K
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