Best tool for unsticking doors

Just a thought.... You may want to do a little checking for termite damage and/or evidence of specific compression of some wooden support structures. You can sometimes tell where the compression or settling is taking place by checking which doorway openings are getting out of square. Sometimes doorway openings that run in one direction get out of square while those that run perpendicular to that are not out of square. And, sometimes, the settling is not in the actual foundation but instead is near the center of the house in the area of a main support beam.

One of the reasons for checking this is, of course, to prevent further termite damage if that is what is happening now. And another is that it may be possible to add some supporting posts/jacks in the basement when a beam is located -- and maybe even jack things back up a little to help straighten out the doorways and prevent further problems.

In other words, the doorways getting out of square may be indicative of a problem that you can fix while preventing further deterioration, and not just "the house is still settling".

But, back to your original question -- I like the electric planer idea since you have a lot of planing to do.

Reply to
TomR
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Hand plane is a poor choice for door ends. Often, the part that drags is end grain, and a plane does a terrible job. I'd be thinking hand held belt sander.

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bucks.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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I had power tools on my brain, so a simple hand plane never entered my mind. (sigh) Yes, I've done some really awful work with one of those.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I was just thinking of another thing I did to fix a door. I jacked up the door frame on one side and shimmed the bottom bringing it back into square. I've actually used a hydraulic auto body ram to spread a wide hallway in an office building when I had to install a storefront type aluminum door and frame with access control. ^_^

TDD

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

With a suitable coarse grit, an orbital sander WILL (eventually) do the job. Plus, it's a nice tool to have for other projects and well worth the less than $20 cost

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Dust will be generated with any sanding operation, unless your sander connects to a vacuum source.

You can, however, confine the dust to a small area by covering the project with a trash bag or blanket.

Reply to
HeyBub

If you want to use a sander, a belt sander is the way to go - carefully.

Reply to
clare

The last time I used my belt sander, it was to clean up the contacts on a pair of size 4 Square D three phase starters for the open drive 60 ton AC compressors at a bowling alley. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

Sounds a bit agressive, to me.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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The last time I used my belt sander, it was to clean up the contacts on a pair of size 4 Square D three phase starters for the open drive 60 ton AC compressors at a bowling alley. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Jennifer Murphy wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Mine stick due the humid summertime. I leave the door(s) alone.

Reply to
Noahbuddy

Painfully slow.

What the pros do: Remove the door, take it outside (when possible). Place it on sawhorses. Apply masking tape to both sides of the edge to be surfaced. Obtain (buy or rent) a 3+" power planer. Bosch is great, others may be as good. Usually less than $100 on sale at box stores, sometimes on line (CPO). Mark the masking tape to the depth you want, both sides. Make the cut with a light setting, continue to the line. Remove masking tape and reinstall door. Elapsed time about 20 minutes, less with a helper. This advice based on been there, done that and learned from talented subs hired to do that kind of work. Using any power toll presupposes some expertise as well as practice with it to become familiar with all operating aspects, including safety matters like eye protection.

Joe

Reply to
Joe

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