Best order for refurbishing house
I will most likely be moving and will be redoing the house to make it
ready for sale. What's the best order for doing these things... I'm
thinking it's the order listed below.
- interior paint
weathertight before doing any interior work.
Then do all required wiring and plumbing modifications so if you need
to open walls, cielings, or floors you aren't doing anything twice.
Then fix all the walls, and do first coat of paint.
Then do floors, then cabinets, then trim and final coat of paint.
Doing it in this order means there is no chance of unpainted wall
showing behind cabinets and trim, and the cabinets etc are all
accurate hight from finished floor - so things like stoves,
dishwashers, etc fit properly - and any damage done to walls when
doing floors etc can be touched up with the final coat of paint -
while wall repairs and initial painting won't get paint/drywall
compound etc on the new flooring.
Of the items given...
1. Redo shower/tub. Any remodel work here will likely affect the
surrounding paint and flooring. Best to take care of this first.
2. Paint. It is easier to paint before the cabinets are in the way and so
you don't have to worry about drips on new floors.
3. Flooring. With the tub installed and the painting done, you can easily
lay the floor without worrying about drips or obstructions.
4. Cabinets/counters. With the paint and flooring done, it will be easy to
install the cabinets.
At least that's the order I would do them.
I might wonder what *sort* of flooring is going in. E.g., with ceramic
tile, often want the cabinets to sit on the "subfloor" and not the tile
so you'd install them and then tile *to* them (instead of tiling UNDER them).
plinth would likely break taking out the cabinets, and the plinth
comes as part of the new cabinets - again unless you have them custom
made to fit your existing plinth. And what if you want to re-arrange
and move the fridge or stove or dishwasher???
Not practical in most situations.
Take your argument to its logical conclusion: if you've already got tiled
floor, do you rip out the tile when you install new cabinets?
The top surface of tile is uneven. Setting cabinets ON it leaves you with
a potentially unstable base and gaps under the cabinets (unless you want
to make your toe kicks out of RUBBER)
Cabinets are standard sizes. It's not like your next set are going to be
deeper, front to back, than your old ones. You aren't going to move the
walls to squeeze in a cabinet that is 2" wider, etc.
Here, homes where folks installed cabinets *on* tile are the "low rent"
variety; the installation looks very amateurish.
in a kitchen putting the cabinets on the sub floor, can causea big hassle. the dishwasher will be sitting in a trough and be very hard to remove to service.
do the job right.
tile floor first, then install cabinents.
do everything in neutral type colors,
if you dont remodel first, you are costing yourself big bucks.
90% of buyers want a move in ready home, later when they have settled in they will then redo what they want.
my 90+ age neighbor died, her family refused to do anything. the home sat vacant for many months it finally sold for about 30% off of similiar homes did.
the new owner is glad he enjoys home repair, but 90% dont!
If cabinets have the same footprint, then changing out the cabinets is
no big deal.
Try that with saltillo tile and you will grimace each time you look at it!
You'll be *caulking* around the base to hide the imperfections in the
tile's thickness, depth of grout lines, etc. (toe kick reveal just
accentuates these imperfections)
We talked to several tile pros when we ordered our tile -- as we were swapping
out bathroom and kitchen cabinetry at the same time: "What order should we
The answer boiled down to "EASIER to tile first" (less cutting and fitting)
but "much better LOOKING to tile after the cabinetry" -- the floor and
cabinetry look to belong together (esp if you tile on the diagonal).
Floor plans tend not to change (stove can't arbitrarily be moved in
most kitchens; nor the refrigerator, sink, commode, etc.). We opted to
move the kitchen peninsula a foot further into the family room and erect
a pony wall behind it -- most folks don't have that luxury (i.e., the
room's dimensions remain the same before and after replacing a floor,
cabinetry, appliances, etc.)
Our tile pattern was planned so the tiles *fit* with the cabinets
instead of just letting the cabinetry and tile "fall where they may".
At $15K, I doubt folks will be eager to replace the cabinets
in *my* lifetime! And, pulling up the floor is even more unlikely
(removing all that tile).
On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 12:18:18 -0500, Gordon Shumway
and MANY cabinets today have adjustable levelling "feet" to level the
cabinet - and the "kickboard" or "plinth" gets coped to fit the floor
if necessary - or simply ripped to fit, with the small gap at the
are shimming the floor to tile level (adding another 3/8" or 1/2"
plywood) under the cabinets, particularly if a range, dishwasher, or
refrigerator are being installed within that cabinet area. I know from
experience getting a dishwasher out of a cabinet that has had tile
installed after the fact is one royal pain!!!! You need to lift the
dishwasher to get it out and you can't because the cabinet doesn't
have enough clearance to lift it high enough to get over the tile
(this was a heavy guage floor tile on a mortar bed - over 1/2 inch
higher than the subfloor)
I installed our cabinets on TOP of wood flooring, tile flooring, and vinyl
flooring. Makes for a neater job, and much easier than cutting around the
The only exception would be carpet, where you would install the cabinets
first and fit the carpet around them.
On 3/19/2016 7:55 AM, HerHusband wrote:
Wood, vinyl/linoleum and BATHROOM (ceramic) tile are smooth, level surfaces.
There is good dimensional repeatability (unless you've a truly "rustic"
wood floor/trip hazzard)
Our ceramic tile have a very deliberate texture to their surface and
beveled/rounded edges. I.e., there's a noticeable distance between the
top of the highest point in the texture (which is the LOWEST point for the
cabinetry to rest on the tile surface) and the lowest point in a grout
line. Put a (VERY LONG!) straight edge across that surface and all you
see are these highs and lows accentuated against that straight line.
[Said another way, you couldn't roll a steel ball STRAIGHT across a tile,
let alone a SPAN of tiles!]
With saltillo tile, the differences are even more pronounced (the tiles
themselves aren't very well dimensionally controlled).
And, all that assumes the tile is laid with the same amount of adhesive
beneath on a perfectly flat floor. Any imperfections translate through
the (rigid) tile thickness to appear as high and low spots.
[Yeah, you can shim so the cabinets don't "rock", but the toe kick reveal
will still highlight the "non-flatness" of the floor -- just like
laying a square/straightedge across the surface! Note your toe kick
is much wider than any single cabinet so you are now dealing with highs
and lows over a 6, 8, 10, 12 ft span!]
Fitting the tile gives the same sort of finished appearance. The tile
looks like it was mated to the cabinetry instead of the cabinetry
appearing as an afterthought. E.g., we will lay diagonal with smaller
trim tiles "outlining" the border of the cabinetry (and walls) with
the "field" of tile. A lot more work (cutting) but in the homes we've
examined with this approach, it really looks a lot classier.
[So, the cabinetry just plays the role of other tile: a grout line
separates the cabinetry FROM the tile]
You also have to consider what the thickness of the tile does to the
height of your counter wrt "upper" cabinets (as uppers tend to have limits
on where their tops can be located). Ceiling heights don't magically
increase just because you've lost some height to "floor thickness".
Likewise, counter heights have to consider under-the-counter appliances
(e.g., dishwasher, compactor, slide-ins, etc.). We've had to carefully
plan to ensure we could get these things in and out after the counters are
in place (lifting countertops to do so is not an option!).
[This actually cased some unexpected problems with the WC's as they
were designed to fit *under* certain other things.]
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