Best masking tape?

I am painting my kitchen walls, which border on a lot of stained wood cabinets. What do the pros do? A sash brush and a steady hand, or do they mask the wood that should not be touched by paint.
If masking is desirable, what is the best kind of masking tape to cover the edges of the stained wood cabinets?
I know there is the blue masking tape but I believe its only advantage is that you can leave it on for several days. But, is the blue (expensive) tape as good for sharp lines around wood cabinets as the cheaper, corrugated masking tape?
I used some of the cheap stuff but, when I pulled it off after six hours, the paint stuck to it and I pulled some of the paint off the walls, which made a mess. There must be a better way!
Thanks for any input.
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Walter
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Walter R. wrote:

things as they go. I Am Not A Good Painter- I use masking tape. A thing I found that helps- use something to run down the edge of the tape before you paint to snug it up, and if you leave the tape on for several hours, use a fresh blade in a box knife or x-acto, and slit the paint right at the edge of the tape. With as bad as my eyes are getting for close work like that, I'll probably have to arrange for help next time.
aem sends....
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Yeah, you and me both. I am 80 and my hands are not as steady as they used to be. Thanks for your help
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Walter R. wrote:

Try one of those "edge" machines. 4" plastic square, sponge face, handle, and two little wheels. Makes an almost perfect straight line. If you're going to use tape, cut the paint with a razor before you remove the tape.
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Picked one of these up one day. My friend said; had he known about them thirty years ago he would have been a Painter!
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wrote:

Pros might have a ten year apprenticeship and paint freehand. Not tape:)

1 inch blue tape is cheaper than 2 inch.

The paint stuck to the tape and peeled the paint from the wall. The tape should have been removed before it dried.

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Walter R. wrote:

and some masked. Generally, a straight painted boundary isn't a perfectly straight line - woodwork/wall, ceiling/wall - so a little wandering isn't obvious. It takes practice, but some (like me) aren't steady enough to paint without masking.
The colors of tape are a guide to how sticky they are. You don't want strong adhesion on a wall because it might pull off the paint that is there. It is a good idea to run your nail down the edge of painter's tape so the edge is completely adhering and paint can't get under it. Remove tape as soon as you paint. If you leave the tape on and allow the paint to dry, then the paint film is continuous from tape to wall - that is why it pulled off. Also, when pulling the tape off, pull it back onto itself not straight out from the surface.
A little paint smudge or splatter on varnished wood cabinets isn't a big deal. Even when dry, latex paint can be removed as long as it is done early - hot soapy water or a fingernail. Wipe oil paint with mineral spirits.
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I tend to do freehand. The trick, other than a steady hand, is to have a fairly WET brush. In this way, the surface tension/bead of paint gives you a nice line. If the area is cramped, then I'll use 1" blue tape, but pull it off in a short while (latex paint -- 5-10 minutes, max), so it won't lift the paint. I like the round 1" or 1/2" brushes for such work. The rectangular tapered ones are Ok too.
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Get the blue. You can do the entire room for about $5
Yes, a pro can do it by hand, but I still prefer to mask most trim.
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wrote in message

And pull the paint BEFORE THE PAINT DRIES!
Steve
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wrote:

Many Pros don't mask, but I certainly do. It is easy to spatter paint anywhere and I have seen spattered paint left by a Pro.

Use "Painters tape." It's a little more $ but won't leave residue like regular masking tape.

I use a smaller brush and hand paint to the edge. I still mask off protected areas but never paint to the masking tape edge. The blue tape is really not expensive, your time is. Don't use the cheap stuff!

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