A year or two ago I wound up calling manufacturers asking if they had any battery powered drills that could use a Pb 12v car battery. They all said no saying the low impedance would burn out the motors. I was surprised given the current capability of NiCd. Now the Li are on the scene. Anyone heard of a drill capable of using the car battery? Anyone used a car battery with a drill?
Since you are willing to put up with a cord, why not use a 115v drill and get an inverter for the car.
I dont see why it wont work, maybe they just want to sell batteries.
Much voltage drop so make the lines short or larger. Further, you need to fuse the lines way down preventing short circuit (meltdown or explosion) of a few hundred amps at the drill.
There is a cordless drill out in the market a few years ago that could use either battery or an external power supply - don't remember who make it but should be easy for the DIY to do.
12vdc is 12vdc, whether from a car battery or NiCd. The impedance of the drill is whatever is required for the proper amperage at 12vdc. What are you/they talking about?!
Take a 300W inverter and connect it to your car's electrical system. Take an AC drill. Plug it into the inverter.
Tuff to do up at the cabin. :-)
ago I wound up calling manufacturers asking if they had
... of the battery.
Want battery unit.
Any 12V car battery could run any 12V dc drill or a 6V motorcycle battery could run a any 6V dc drill. If you're handy, all you need is a disconnect,
2 wires and a fuse to protect you and the drill.New battery technology is now pretty good, something like 2,000 charge cycles vs. 500 cycles, 3x the run time and 1/2 the weight of a NiCd - that's the hype anyway. Why bother with a hefty lead acid that you shouldn't use it indoors without ventilation?
Not exactly. 12V static from the drill battery a little more static from the car battery (most will be about 13V) then put the drain on them. The drill battery is likely to drop down to like 9 Volts quickly (internal resistance) but the car battery may only drop down to 12V. That difference could burn a motor that was not designed for it.
Now my questions is why not just use the 12V charger and charge one battery while you are using another?
I have a cheap 12V drill that is interchangeable with a 18V power pack. No problems so far, but I don't use it much either.
Voltage drop is huge on a 12V system and if anything should be ok for a 12V drill. I use #4 cables from the 12V battery to the car power amp for the sub woofers - less than 10' of run at that, and mostly for voltage drop.
10 - 1.2v nicads are fully charged at 1.35v per cell or 13.5v for the pack, at 12v the pack is essential dead, a car battery will be fine. the impedance story I think is nonsence.
Why not?
weight fumes acid
It is.
ransley wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:
IIRC,Hitachi used to sell a cordless drill that had an option for a belt-mounted battery pack,with a coil-cord to the drill.
"Toller" wrote in news:Lg9Pi.18621$ snipped-for-privacy@news02.roc.ny:
all batteries have an internal source resistance(impedance,or Z) that limits how much current they will output.Some types have much lower internal Z than others.
electric motors draw their highest current at stall.
IMO,the main worry would be burning out the speed control in the trigger;they are only designed for a set amount of current capability,and may not have overcurrent protection.
He could use an inline fuse, my RC car has a 30a fuse for 9.6v , he could start with a 3a fuse
Right. Or buy a photovoltaic solar panel and install that on the cabin so you can watch your 12 volt TV.
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