I have nicads just starting to crap out, they are Makita-Panasonic, made
in 84- 22 yrs old, Learn your cells characteristics, don`t believe the
drill manufacturer, they make to much money selling replacements.
On Sun, 6 Aug 2006 05:38:56 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org (m Ransley) wrote:
:I have nicads just starting to crap out, they are Makita-Panasonic, made
:in 84- 22 yrs old, Learn your cells characteristics, don`t believe the
:drill manufacturer, they make to much money selling replacements.
I think NiCads nowadays last longer than they did many years ago. They
used to be said to last 5 years, and that's pretty much what I found.
I've had some that seem to last longer nowadays. I think it depends on
the quality of the batteries and their history of use.
I've heard stories of cell restoration - techniques for getting rid of
dentrites that short circuit cells internally. Also, there are
techniques for otherwise restoring cell capacity, I believe. The deep
cycling technique may work if used in such a manner as to NOT cause the
reverse polarity of any of the battery's cells.
On 6 Aug 2006 05:58:34 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
:> Four years is past the maximum life of a nicad even you you have:>only used them lightly.
:Maybe my 10-year-old nicads never read the book :-)
Indeed, I have NiCads that must be 8+ years old, are in many seasons
very very seldom used and they seem to be reasonably adequate. I suspect
I can revive my drill NiCads. I'm not shopping just yet.
the NiCds in my B&D Dustbuster lasted 10 yrs,but they were a type designed
to stay on the charger all the time when not in use.
I had a local DeWalt service center replace the 4-cell pack because it was
cheaper than buying a new DB.
My first set of Makita 9.6V sticks lasted 7-8 yrs bacause they were used
often and kept charged.
When I ceased using them regularly,they quickly failed,even maintaining
their charge.Same for my B&D VersaPack 3.6v screwdriver packs.
:>:> Four years is past the maximum life of a nicad even you you have:>:>only used them lightly.
:>:Maybe my 10-year-old nicads never read the book :-):> :> Indeed, I have NiCads that must be 8+ years old, are in many seasons:> very very seldom used and they seem to be reasonably adequate. I suspect:> I can revive my drill NiCads. I'm not shopping just yet.:> :> Dan:>
:the NiCds in my B&D Dustbuster lasted 10 yrs,but they were a type designed
:to stay on the charger all the time when not in use.
:I had a local DeWalt service center replace the 4-cell pack because it was
:cheaper than buying a new DB.
:My first set of Makita 9.6V sticks lasted 7-8 yrs bacause they were used
:often and kept charged.
:When I ceased using them regularly,they quickly failed,even maintaining
:their charge.Same for my B&D VersaPack 3.6v screwdriver packs.
I have quite a few of those B&D VersaPack 3.6v screwdriver packs, and
don't use them much. I suppose there's nothing I can do to prevent the
batteries from dying early. I must have about 8 of those batteries. They
are mostly less than 2 years old.
Some chargers have a diagnostic or "tune-up" mode that may help if you
leave the batteries in for an extended time, so it's worth trying.
Unfortunately, at 3 to 4 years it would be common to see some
degradation in the performance of a nicad, regardless of how much use
they have had.
A lot of good info here, but I have some also to offer.
The key problem is "lightly used" - that means the NiCd cells will develop a
memory, unlike more modern ones. A memory of being charged, then
leak-discharged, then trickle charged, etc, etc. The only good way around
avoiding this, is using (as others have said) a discharge cycle (or use to
flat) before recharging, and not leaving them flat.
The age of the cells has NOTHING to do with the expected performance, as
long as you have cycled them properly. I have NiCd cells still working
strongly from the mid nineties.
A nicad is charged at 1.35v, its dead at 1.2v, listening to the idiot
that says run them dead will kill them or reverse their polarity and
ruin them. Nicads are meant to be stored at 1.2v or discharged, they are
not Lead Acid type , do not sulfate. Leaving them on the charger is bad.
But your drill company does not tell you this since their real profit is
giving you a drill, and seling you replacemeny packs.
some chargers are designed to be able to leave the pack in,some are not.
You need to check your manual.
It's been my experience that for longest life,NiCds are best used
often.(use it or lose it)
Once you start storing them for long periods,their life decreases.
NiCds also have a self-discharge rate;just sitting in storage,they
discharge on their own.
Probably right about the use or lose it.
If you don't use them much you need to keep
checking the voltage at least once every 1-2
months and make sure the voltage doesn't drop
below 12V. Full charge on a 12V NiCad is about
14V, but that degrades quickly to about 13V and I
check the voltage when charging and stop before it
reaches 14V. Overcharging is the number one cause
of batteries going bad.
Months ? Nicads ? Wet Cell , in a plane ... OK .
Dry types? from da store , for your drill ? naaaaaah .
50% in a 20 days !!
Li-Ion is high rate power , loss can be 1% /month .
priced out of reach , ..... I tossed all my Nimh !
Just too good to be intimadated by price !
But they die if too much amps charge above the 3.65 vdc level .
All batteries will float if the amps are very low .
( BTW Harbor Fright tiny driver $20 , w/ Li-Ion has no greater than
a 1 aH single cell ) .
George E. Cawthon wrote:
I read the responses below that state you should not drain the battery
but when I googled
*NiCad Batteries Drain Completely*
there are articles that state you should drain them.
Here are a few of the articles....
Frankly, I have no idea which is correct (and I did see some articles
to the opposite) but if I'd suggest calling Panasonic tech service.
Draining a NiCd or NiMH cell completely means to remove essentially all
the energy it contains. This requires discharging it to a cell voltage
of about 1.0 volt. Doing this, then recharging, is the way to reverse
"memory" (voltage depression) effects. If the battery has 6 cells or
fewer and they're reasonably well matched, you can usually safely
discharge the battery to 1.0 volt times the number of cells (e.g., 6.0
volts for a 6 cell battery) without risk of reverse charging one of the
cells. If the battery has more cells, this becomes increasingly risky
and the only safe way to do it is to discharge the cells in groups of
4-6. This of course requires getting into the battery pack.
The folks cautioning against trying to discharge down to 0 volts are
absolutely correct. It just about guarantees reverse charging one or
more cells, which will permanently damage those cells. Those cells will
then have even more reduced capacity, so they'll go into reverse charge
even earlier in the battery cycle the next time. There's never any need
to discharge a cell below 1.0 volt. A well designed tool or electronic
device intended for NiCd or NiMH power should quit operating and drawing
battery current when the pack voltage reaches 1.0 volt per cell.
Unfortunately, a lot aren't in this category.
That's the problem with netnews and the Internet
in general. Lot's of incorrect stuff that gets
repeated over and over even by groups that should
Always check major manufacturers for the accurate
information when there is controversial information.
Usually nicads are rated in how many charge cycles they can take. Around
300 to 600 cycles. I think that a partical charge is also a partical cycle
but not sure. Some rechargables are just rated in number of years even if
they are not used very often.
I'm currently tracking an exception to the rule right now. A friend of
mine was given a laptop that was "broken" for three years. I tightened
a screw on the video card and it works fine. The battery of course was
not replaced within those three years and the battery life is longer
than the 30 minutes that I expected (more like 2 hrs but never fully
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