The Frink was a bottom trip snowplow with a poly snowboard.
The fish-plated mount was 2 plates of 3/8" steel bolted to the side of
the frame back into the suspension area - making for a very strong
and damage resistant mount - re-enforcing the truck frame. It was a
On 01/01/2016 06:26 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The last time I called AAA (it was because of a dead battery), the
driver didn't use jumper cables, but had a portable battery pack. It
started and I drove to the shop. Battery replacement was free (battery
was less than 2 years old).
BTW, when I shifted the car info gear (after AAA started it), it almost
died. The lights got really dim.
my vans battery died, i got it started with my 200 amp boost battery charger.
i used the electric door lock and the engine nearly died. the garages battery tester reported bad cell. the battery was only 2 years old and replaced for free under warranty
Sounds like you had bad alternator?
One battery jumper pack I bought, had a
caution not to leave it under the hood
and use it as a starting battery. I guess
someone probably tried that. I find it
easier to replace the battery when needed,
not try to rig up some thing.
Once the battery starts the car, the charging system is supposed to
take the battery totally out of the circuit, providing charge to the
battery only as needed and capable of providing (do they still call it
a voltage regulator?), but not at the expense of the running engine.
It's why checking your charging system is as simple as disconnecting
the battery from the circuit after starting the engine. If the
electrical/charging system is working properly, no battery is
necessary, and it can be completely removed from a running vehicle.
Not sure if this applies to newest vehicles, those with onboard
computers and event data recorders (ERDs) and other digital nonsense.
Give it a try. Start the engine in yer vehicle. Disconnect the
battery (remove neg cable) and the engine should remain running.
I think that only *nominally* works. I'm not sure alternators are
sized large enough to handle worst case loads -- even on cars with *just*
"factory equipment" -- headlamps, foglamps, sat heaters, sound system,
navigation, windshield defrosters (front & rear), etc.
I suspect there is some duty cycle calculations that goes into how
these loads are reflected in the alternator's output capacity.
And, how variations in the field affect output.
Most vehicles have a large enough alternator to handle all normal
loads plus charge the battery when running at road speed. Not at idle.
HOWEVER. Note that some vehicles will not run without the battery even
if the alternator is working properly, and some vehicled will destroy
the computer if run without the battery.
Please, only test your alternator function with a proper voltmeter.
On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 12:18:10 PM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
It's not just the digital stuff.
Regarding the seat heaters in my Honda Odyssey, the manual says:
"Follow these precautions when using the seat heaters:
Use the HI setting only to heat the seats quickly, because it
draws large amounts of current from the battery.
If the engine is left idling for an extended period, do not
use the seat heaters, even on the LO setting. It can
weaken the battery, causing hard starting."
In other words, there are some systems that still draw
current from the battery, even with the engine running.
Not true on all vehicles, and a dangerous way to test on others. The
battery on MOST vehicles today needs to be in place for the vehicle to
run and the charging system to function.
Don't try it. Some vehicle computers can be damaged by removing the
battery connection while the alternator is charging.. The best way to
test if an alternator is running is with a voltmater or other charging
voltage indicator (there are boxes with several LEDs that light up
telling you either the voltage or the condition of the charging
The proper tool to do the test is CHEAP and readily available, and
something every automotive DIYer should have at his disposal.
With all the electronics on the newer cars I would not chance unhooking the
Even the $ 6 or free multimeter form Harbor Freight will do the check the
charging system. Take a volt reading before starting the car and after. If
the voltage does not go up, look into the charging system. The meter does
not even have to be accurate, just compair it to a known good car if in
A bad idea on older cars too. On my way home from work one day I
noticed my ammeter was reading way high. '66 Ford F-100 with 352.
Stopped at a gas station and told the mechanic to check it out.
He disconnected a battery cable while it was running - don't know
which one. The heater fan took off like a jet engine, and a bunch of
fuses blew, and a couple tail light bulbs. And I shut it down almost
instantly with the ignition key. Drove it home (about 1/2 mile) and
Think the alt had failed with an open diode. Unusual fail mode.
On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 11:00:57 AM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
Heck, even my radios complain when I unhook the battery.
It's a security feature that I hope the thieves know about. It's
no help to me if they rip out the radio and then can't use it
without the code. I'd still be without a radio. All I can hope is
that the thieves know about the feature and move on to the next
I don't recall if it was in this forum or another, but one guy
was saying that he lives without a radio because he refuses to
pay a dealer the $50 they want to look up the code for his radio.
He changed his battery and now has no working radio.
I've got 3 Honda's with that feature. Luckily I have the codes
for all 3.
On 1/3/2016 5:36 PM, email@example.com wrote:
My quick and easy test for alternator voltage is to
turn on the windshield wipers. The wipe rate gives
me a quick idea if the voltage is low.
A VOM (volt ohm miliameter) can also be useful. If
one knows what to do, and where to check. I've done
alternator tests with one.
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