I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.
One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall. If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain.
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.
If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?
Anybody got any ideas on this kind of situation?
That is the standard way. I don't know how else you'd do it. You
want the outermost edge of the tub lip to be tight against the studs
so that all wall materials are overhanging the tub. It's the simplest
way to have a waterproof installation. I suppose you could use
Redgard and an applied flashing to cover the rim, but then you'd have
to increase the wall tile setting bed thickness to compensate. That's
a losing proposition.
I don't understand the desire to run the drywall to the floor. Why do
They are more or less standard. If you need to notch out a quarter of
an inch of the studs - just recess the rim - that's fine, or if it's a
little small, just shim out the studs with plywood strips.
It just seemed natural to me, inexperienced me which is why I ask here
and everywhere else I can first, and, of course, I did not realize
that it is easier to have a waterproof seal with the drywall
overlapping the tub.
There is a lot more to a tile installation than gluing up tile. Don't
shoot yourself in the foot. Asking a few random questions on a
newsgroup can't replace a concerted effort of study. Before you go a
step further, hie thee to a library and check out a copy of Setting
Tile by Michael Byrne. It will tell you all of the stuff you need to
know and the order in which to do things.
Uh, modern tub with lip and skirt, or old clawfoot, that was perhaps
badly boxed in, in a previous remodel, to make it look 'modern'? Seen
lotsa those in older houses. But yeah, if this is a modern tub, tub goes
in first, and you build the bathroom around it.
I'll throw in the standard reminder to insulate behind and under the tub
while the walls are open. Even with a cast-iron tub, it makes the water
stay hot longer, and reduces cold-butt syndrome climbing into an empty tub.
fileave site you are a tenant on) weren't an unwitting zombie carrier or
something recently, were you?
Bottom line- I can't see your picture unless I disable my security
perimeter. Can you copy it over to one of the trusted public photo sites?
I'll have to check in to that. This is the first time I have used
FileAve. I posted in another NG about needing a file hosting site and
another poster posted a link to a page that rated those sites. FileAve
was the top rated file hosting site from that page.
I can access it too, using explorer and norton. It's a standard
tub. Whether it stays or goes depends on what condition the surface
is in and we can't determine that from the pic. If it's not OK, I
don't think I'd refinish it. Doing a complete remodel, I'd want a new
one so I'm sure you're not going to have problems in a few years again.
I used to have that WOT application on my browser. I had to wonder if
they based some of their ratings on data from users that were less
than honest. Perhaps other sites trying to give their competition a
Still, tho. Now I recon I had better use something else.
(or moving into the better machine sitting on the floor that also needs
a fresh load), but recovering from a major infection or crash is a
siginificant PITA. Not so much the 2-3 hours loading the software, but
the days drilling around on the crashed drive recovering and sorting
data, and tweaking all the program settings, etc. I keep meaning to buy
an external drive, since I no longer have the patience to spool stuff
off to CDs, but at the moment the past 2 years or so are basically not
I have enough PCs sitting around- I really ought to have one dedicated
just to internet/usenet browsing, with no data I care about loaded on
it. Image that to a spare drive, so when it gets infected, it is a
matter of minutes to start over.
The link worked fine for me (I'm using Windows XP, Microsoft Security
Essentials, and Comodo).
You mentioned in a later post that you believe there are some good solutions
out there to refinish or touch up a cast iron tub. My suggestion would be
to stay away from trying any refinish techniques. If there are any defects
or problem areas in the tub, replacing it will be a better idea in my
opinion. Also, by replacing the tub, you will have access to all of the
walls and all of the florr area, and connecting up the new plumbing will be
easier. You will also have better access to the wiring issue that came up.
Cast iron tubs weigh a ton (or, more correctly, a couple of hundred pounds
+/-). But they are easy to get out. You use a sledge hammer and break them
up. There are lots of http://YouTube.com videos to show how that's done. I
watched the videos and did one and it was fun to do. Put the cast iron
pieces out by the curb and scrap metal collectors will take it in a flash.
About the shower idea -- what's the plan in terms of the window? If you
have a shower, the window will be in the middle of the shower area and you
will have to figure out how to tile around it etc.
Any suggestions out there (I don't have any) for how "hibb" could or should
deal with the window in the new shower/tub area?
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