Bathroom door scores hall floor

I probably know the answer to this, but I'm hoping for a miracle <g>
My old house "heaves" from time to time. A door that usually opens smoothly will catch on a "heaved" floor. After a while, the floor un-heaves and door opens OK. Been going on forever.
Current situation lasting too long. Bathroom door has scored hall floor. I KNOW I'm supposed to take the fracking door off hinges and rehang, but it's a two-person job for moi and I hate to bother neighbor.
I tried to lessen scoring by applying heavy coat of wax on floor, but didn't help. Lifting door by knob helps a little, but who can always remember?
I also tried filing the "catching" point with #60 sandpaper but didn't help. Would using a metal file help any better? I'd need to borrow one; can't find mine.
Miracle?
TIA
HB
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Take the door off and sand the bottom to create enough clearance. A belt sander would make quick work of it. Keep the sander level to prevent rounding the edges or clamp some 1 by material to both sides to give you a wider surface to rest the sander on.
Be sure to seal/paint the newly exposed wood to prevent it from absorbing moisture.
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Assuming the door is rubbing at the leading edge...
Try tigtening the screws in the top hinge; REALLY tight. If no improvement, try also loosening the bottom hinge screws by about a 1/4 -1/2 turn. If not fixed, try a cardboard shim behind the bottom hinge; cardboard like the thin stuff backing a note pad. Try two shims.
If the door is rubbing at the trailing edge, reverse the above. ________________
If the above doesn't help or if the door is now hitting the jamb, go get the neighbor, take the door off the hinges remove 1/8" from door bottom, replace door, buy neighbor dinner.
--

dadiOH
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To clarify, when I say "tighten screws" I mean those in both door and jamb; when I say "loosen screws" I mean those in door OR jamb...if doing one side doesn't help, try the other too. When I suggest two shims I mean one under door hinge flap, another under jamb hinge flap.
--

dadiOH
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Might be possible to knock the hinge pins out, take the door off. Use a belt sander to take a bit of wood off the door where it drags (probably the outer edge). Since it's end grain at that point, a block plane isn't going to do very well. I used angle grinder one time, on a neighbor's door. Have to be very light on pressure, and keep the wheel moving or the wood burns and smokes.
Use some of that floor wax on the bottom of the door, and hang it back up.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
On 8/11/2013 3:35 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:

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On Sunday, August 11, 2013 5:26:00 AM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:

YESSSSS! Much easier than removing screws. Where was my head??!!
Use a

I'll try my light duty hand sander first with a heavy grit. If that doesn't work, I might try my son's old surfboard plane.
Use some of that floor wax on the bottom of the door, and hang it back up.
Way to go! I'll mount a plaque with your name on it -- along with some of the other wise contributors to this thread.
HB

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I may print this out and save it, so seldom that a kind word is said on Usenet.
If "plane" is a sliding device with a blade, probably won't work on the door edge. The board's grain goes the wrong way.
Thank you for your kindness.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
On 8/14/2013 1:38 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:

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On 8/14/2013 1:08 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

a sharp plane blade will go through end grain.
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In unskilled hands there's big risk of tear out at the edge. I don't suggest this method for the OP.
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On Sun, 11 Aug 2013 00:35:17 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson

Almost anyone can remove an interior door alone. Especially the modern ones which are hollow. Remove the door, use a circular saw with a FINE blade, such as a plywood blade, and cut off 1/4 inch. This is no biggie. Your floors should not be heaving anyhow, but the flooring was probably put over existing flooring and that raises the floor. Door should have been cut off when the flooring was installed.
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