I want to remove my old basement windows and replace them with vinyl
slider types. The old ones are steel frame, hopper type and the
concrete foundation is poured around the steel frames (buck) on 3 sides
and the top is tight to the wood sill. The concrete is sloped on both
sides and the bottom, inside and out, and after I remove the old frames
I will have a channel in the concrete on 3 sides. I want to frame out
the rough opening for the windows with pressure treated lumber but how
would you do it with the channel and all those angles from the slopes
in the concrete? Any help is appreciated.
I am planning on replacing a rotten wood window in our concrete foundation.
I don't need the window to open so I was wondering if I could use 4 pieces
of treated 1X8 to form a box that just slides into the opening & fasten it
with a couple of concrete screws. I would install a glass stop on all 4
sides with 1/4 round then have a sealed triple pane glass unit made up to
fit & seal it in place with silicone.
Do I have to slope the lower sill to allow water to run off?
Is 1X8 stock good enough (or should I be using 2X8)?
I would want the ability to open a vent of some kind, even if you don't
do it often.
If you choose not to offer a vent, then why not glass block? You can
even add a vent to them, good security and light.
Yes, you need to slope the lower sill no matter what you do.
You should verify egress requirements with your local building code
office. Some require egress ability for fire code reasons. I don't
know if a fixed window meets those requirements.
I recently installed a vinyl hopper purchased at home depot, per the
link below. I special-ordered it about 1/4" less than the rough
dimensions, and just screwed it with Tapcons/shims right into the
masonry. I foamed the gap and caulked around it.
FWIW, the vinyl basement windows I used a couple of years ago didn't
need any framing. They were not two section sliding type, though,
rather the top opening type. I installed them by building up the
opening to the exact window size with mortar and brick. The top piece
(wood) I left until the mortar surround around the unit had set. It was
easy to make nice slopes inside and out for appearance and shedding
water. Slicing brick pieces to size was readily done with a modest
priced diamond blade in my circular saw. The vinyl to mortar bond is
quite good and still looks perfect today. HTH.
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