Basement stair: are 8" riser, 9" tread OK?

[manhattan42]

That's not what the code states, however.

Depending on the thickness of the laminate, it could increase th minimum riser height above allowed for the bottom riser and shorten th top riser distance.....Both code violations.

And since the existing riser height already exceeds maximum height according the IRC 2003, any alteration may necessitate the complet reconstruction of the stairway to meet prevailing code depending on th interpretation of the original poster's code enforcement office.

Colbyt already mentioned that in the 2nd post in this thread which ha been largely ignored....but is correct.

Generally speaking, unless we are speaking about using a veneer that i say 1/16th of an inch thick which will be wrapped and glued over th existing treads, what is being proposed by adding a laminate over th existing treads is generally not allowable under code because it cause trip hazards at the top and bottom step and could require the complet reconstruction of the stairway

-- manhattan4

----------------------------------------------------------------------- manhattan42's Profile:

this thread: post was submitted via http://www.HomeRepairForums.or

[Wayne Whitney]

Does this apply separately to the top and bottom corner of a tread, or does this imply that a tread must be no more that 1 1/8" thick?

Thanks, Wayne

[Wayne Whitney]

OK, obviously it depends upon the interpretation of the local authority. But I would say that the if the modification does not change the typical rise and run, and the "all risers within 3/8 inch" rule is met, that it would be unreasonable for the local authority to require the stairs to be rebuilt. That's my opinion.

If we're talking code details, another issue is the 80" of vertical headroom requirement, from the diagonal connecting the noses of the treads. If the noses are moved up or out, then one should verify there is still 80" of vertical headroom.

To the OP, I agree with manhattan42 that it is important to obey the "all risers within 3/8 inch" rule. It would be a good idea to measure each riser now and seem if they are equal. Do you have a strategy to deal with the topmost and bottommost riser? For example, perhaps you are installing laminate on those floors as well. If not, then between this issue and the laminate trim issue, I would suggest that replacing the treads with hardwood would be a better solution.

Best wishes, Wayne

[homeowner]

My stair is prefabricated. The treads is embeded into the stringers, making them almost unreplacable.

I wonder how those stair get finished then? Whether adding a laminate or carpet, the top and bottom step height will change.

In my case, I installed 5/16" thick tiles at the basement. As the tile thickness and laminate thickness is the same, I don't need to worry about the bottom step. I am not sure how anyone dealt with the top step then? Maybe glue a piece of 1/4" thick wood at the stair entrance upper floor?

I went to dozens of home with finished basment stairs. Nobody did anything special. They just add carpets or laminates. A few did replace the raw treads with finished hardwood treads. But those raw treads are easily replacable.

[manhattan42]

Neither. It just means that the curvature of the nosing can be made by a radiu no greater than 9/16"

-- manhattan4

----------------------------------------------------------------------- manhattan42's Profile:

this thread: post was submitted via http://www.HomeRepairForums.or

[Wayne Whitney]

What are the treads made of? It seems odd to make a stairs like this and not to use a finish material for the treads.

Cheers, Wayne

[Wayne Whitney]

Let me try again. If this requirement applies to the nosing as a whole, then the nosing radius can't be more than 9/16", so the diameter can't be more than 2 * 9/16" = 1 1/8", i.e. the thickness of the nosing can't be more than 1 1/8". That seems like a very odd requirement, so I assume that the "radius of curvature" requirement just applies to the top and bottom corners of the nosing profile separately?

Cheers, Wayne

[homeowner]

The treads are made of 1" plywood. I once asked a contractor to replace the treads with hardwood. He basically said he could do it w/o destroying the stair. He suggested to use carpet instead. I presume adding carpet will also change risersize at the top and bottom.

[Duane Bozarth]

...

One would that the design/installation incorporated the intended flooring at the bottom and top and the tread covering to compensate. That a speculative-built house wouldn't have done so is certainly within easy belief.

That doesn't mean they met code (obviously)...

Probably w/ plywood it was intended for a thin carpet to be laid on them.

Probably can get by w/ the laminate although may need to adjust the upper floor landing. I'd probably just make a solid nosing and fasten it solidly to the front of the tread.

[Duane Bozarth]

Duane Bozarth wrote: ...

...

I meant to add that unless the mismatch is really noticeable enough that you see people actually mis-stepping, the exact compliance to code is pretty much a non-issue until/unless one of two events (both fairly remote, but possible)--

1. You get ready to sell and the buyer has a lender w/ a persnickety inspector who notes the discrepancy. You would normally end up taking some financial hit to compensate for the fix or choose to repair it at the time on your own, or

1. Somebody actually does trip/fall, gets injured and sues...might become a liability issue w/ an insurance company if did work and didn't comply.

The likelihood of either is, as noted, relatively remote in a borderline case--if it ends up being quite a bit out, it will probably be obvious there's a problem that should be addressed...otherwise, your call.

[manhattan42]

Correct. But this is not odd because most manufactured treads are 1 1/8" thic or less

-- manhattan4

----------------------------------------------------------------------- manhattan42's Profile:

this thread: post was submitted via http://www.HomeRepairForums.or