Everyone talks about how to put a thin strip of wood behind the hole that
you're patching so that you can attach the drywall.
I can do that, but I'm having problems visualizing how you would attach the
wood backing. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall
and into the wood backing, or is it something more. I'm just having trouble
seeing it because drywall isn't very strong, so using drywall to hold up the
backing wood, so that you can secure the patch sounds like a recipe for a
bigger hole to patch.
That's one way of doing it, a few screws hold it in place ( driven
through the undamaged drywal)
Sometimes you can't avoid a bigger hole, the trick is to avoid having
to do it twice!
Pull Apart after initial pushing together is something I've just
In fact some of my newer power glues advise to:
1. Apply glue to one surface only.
2. Press surfaces together
3. Pull Apart about 1/2 inch then Press together again.
4. Repeat several times to speed bonding.
I've never done that before, but I like the way it thins out the
layer of adhesive and thus speeds up the bonding.
That works in many cases.
I've also used various types of glue depending on what I'm doing. I've even
used drywall mud on the ends as well as liquid nails. It just depends on
what I'm doing, how picky, how much strength I need, how visable it will
be, will it ever be bumped, etc. Just put on ends, put stick in wall.
A favorite stick of mine to use are paint sticks. Lotsa BORG sticks behind
the walls in houses I've worked on! They can be cut and split with a razor
knife as well as hand broken. Not too good for screwing into though. 1 gal
sticks will split easily. 5 gal much sturdier being 1/4 thick.
BORG sticks (1 & 5 gal) are also great for putting in stripped wood screw
holes. Cut to size with extra length, coat with wood glue, hammer in hole
as flush as possible. When thoroughly dry, trim any protruding wood with
5 gal BORG sticks also good for wall spaces of laminate floor requiring 1/4
It COULD be a load bearing surface, at some time in the future.
Perhaps a load of a different kind. Depending upon where the repair
is located, I would be concerned about somebody bumping a broom handle
into a weak spot and having to repair the wall again. Somebody might
trip and put their hand out to break their fall and have it go through
the repaired spot.
I prefer slightly more substantial bracing behind my drywall repairs,
and I prefer to have them securely screwed in place.
At HD,they have these drywall repair clips having breakoff tabs that hold
in the replacement piece of drywall,then screws go thru the metal clip to
hold botht he new piece and the clip to the original drywall.
I use 1x2s or 2x3s and drywall screws. In some places, I use
special screws. They have a thin perforated washer that looks like
a cross between a crown/dimple washer and a fender washer.
About 1" in diameter. When driven home, they're practically flush.
They're carried in various places. Lee Valley has them. I suspect
the borg now does too.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
I've never done this with any method, but HD and maybe other places
sell clips, in a package of 4 or 4 or 6 that go onto the remainder of
good wall and let you clip in the patch, and finish that with a screw,
provided, for each clip. After you have done most of the spackling or
mudding or whatever, you can break off the clip tabs that show and
spackle over the tiny stubs that I think are a bit below surface
Having not replaced my roof soon enough, I have to do a 4' x 4' patch
sometime. Of course there I can nail to the wachamacallits, trusses?,
and the hard part will be holding the thing up by myself until I get
some screws in. I don't know if the clips will help or not.
How big is this hole you're trying to patch?
I usually cut a piece of cardboard or paperboard a little bigger than
the hole. Punch a little hole in the middle and tie a string to it.
Put the card thru the hole and pull it tight to the back of the drywall
with the string. Then patch the hole with plaster of paris. Don't
quite fill it flush with the surrounding wall; if there are any high
spots, trim them down after the plaster sets but before it really gets
hard. After it hardens, fill and smooth using spackle.
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