My thoughts on the pros and cons of back priming T-111 siding that will
go over Tyvek house wrap and cover a small stud framed cottage.
Back prime, pros, moisture from house will stay out of siding and reduce
paint peeling. Cons, extra paint and time. Moisture may be trapped in
wall causing premature rot of wall sheathing.
Don't back prime, pros, save money and time. Moisture will tend to rot
out the easier to replace T-111 siding and not the wall sheathing. Cons,
paint may blister faster as moisture tries to escape beneath paint.
Thank you for any thoughts on the matter you might share with me.
P.S. Seems like the proper application would call for 1x3 diagonal
sleepers to be installed first and then the back primed siding. This
would solve both potential problems (rot and paint blistering) or is
that over kill. I guess this would also cause some detail problems
around the windows and door?
Especially not an option with OSB-core faux t-111 like this place has.
Only way I would consider going bare-ass is with cedar (or in the old
days, redwood), or other similar hardy woods, in clapboard or
board'n'batten. Ply or OSB will delaminate in a year or less, unless you
are in a shady desert.
Have you looked at the pre-coated T-111s like they use on sheds and
cheap apartment buildings? Modern variant of hardboard siding,
basically, but with a plastic weather coat. The 12 years I lived in my
brand-new apartment building before moving here, they never repainted
the field areas, and it seemed to hold up okay. If this is just a
fishing cabin or something, it may be good enough. (and you can always
side right over it.)
Built my 2 story garage with T-111 17 years ago, then applied solid stain.
Not a bubble, no cracks no rot. Finally restained last year, only because
color had faded. Used Behr solid stain, BTW, both times.
I'd skip the back priming.
Back prime the siding. This causes the siding to take in
moisture and release moisture at the same, or close to the same
rate, on front and back. This increases the lifespan of the paint.
The diagonal sleepers could just be lathe and don't have to be
diagonal. They can be vertical and accomplish the same thing.
The rainguard system (with the lath and breathable space) will
increase your profile and require you to extend the jambs of
windows and doors to accomodate the systems increased thickness.
If it were me, I would just backprime the siding and nail it up.
But if you have the time, money and inclination, install the
In summation, the backpriming will contribute to the
effectiveness of the paint on your siding, extending its life,
therefore extending the protections against moisture intrusion,
therefore protecting the underlying sheathing.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.