I take it the flat part of the "D's" mate with the flat on the shaft. If this is so then this set up would more accurately be described as a cheap design.
The motor shaft on the MM525 has at least one flat machined into the motor shaft that a wrench can secure.
The picture of the armature does appear to have left hand threads.
Thanks for all the help.
Well, I got it off by putting a little liquid wrench type stuff on it, putting on a 3/4" end wrench and hitting the wrench with a hammer 10 to 20 times. The shaft just turned with the wrench, but it must have done something, because the last time I hit it, the wrench turned more than the shaft. After that the whole job was quick and easy.
I was trying to write a post last night to explain this, but I got stymied and didn't finish it. You do a pretty good job and I may not bother to finish it. (Although in this case one piece of bread of the sandwich is the fan, and only one washer, the one at the end has a D hole (in this case, with flats on two opposite sides) and it has two slip clutches, between the metal washer I desribe and a plastic washer of the same size, and between the plastic washer and the blade.
The washers are square and the plastic one has ridges on each side, two pointing to the blade and two pointing towards the drive washer, the one with the double-D hole.
The ridges break off when something hard is hit. But the mower still worked fine. The problme in my case was that the fan also broke, maybe in the same incident, and the whole thingg was no longer balanced. I figured the bearings wouldn't last as long with the imbalance, and it might be more tiring to use the mower, and the fan wasn't as effective with 3 out of 8 blades missing. (Indded on the fan is embossed, Don't run mower without fan, so maybe it helps in cooling. There were some ventilation holes just above it come to think of it.
What would be better? How much better and how much would it add to the price of the mower, and the weight?
All the B&Decker use the style I have and the Sears look like they're made by B&D and I haven't seen electric mowers from any other company.
Well, a blade acan be sharpened and even if a chunk of blade is missing, the other end can be ground to balance the blade, But if the blade is ruined, it sure seems worth replacing the blade to me. A blade costs xxxx and a mower like mine** costs about 220 dollars plus tax.
**(the newer model which is the same except for the height adjustment)I asked about getting the blade off when I was buying the part, and the counter girl asked the guy in the back and sh said nothing about that. And the manual, which is online, would also have mentioned it.
And it is right-handed.
It would be the whole motor armature. :) BTW, that ebay armature used to show the threads was only a dollar this morning, and sold for
6.50 plus 12.25 shipping. A good price I'm sure, but I can buy a new one if I ever need it.Thanks to all.
According to the manual wedge a piece of 2x4 by placing one end in the shoot opening in the deck. Then it is easy - I've done it.
I already tried that. It didn't work. You may have done it but not all mowers are the same.
You came in late and didn't read the whole thread.
replying to Don Young, Hector wrote: Thanks! This trick saved my day. Hitting the wrench with the hammer while holding the blade in place with a 2x4 worked right away!
replying to tommarshalek, Budd wrote: Thanks tommarshalek! That was the right solution for me.
If you are talking the 24 volt lead acid powered mower, yeah, they are pretty much junk - but the battery is available from third party suppliers for significantly less. I've replaced several of them over the years for friends.
I am having the same problem. I hold the blade and the shaft just turns with the nut so the nut doesn’t come off
Very strange. You would think the mower would have a blade and shaft design so that the shaft can't move without the blade moving. Otherwise you're going to have problems trying to remove the bolt that holds the blade. As someone first suggested, an impact wrench would likely work. What does the manual say about how to remove the blade for sharpening, etc?
If you need to do them on anything approching a regular basis a cheap impact gun will pay for itself pretty quickly.
An older post in this 14 y/o home-moaners thread talks about a flat on the shaft above/behind the blade. You hold that with a ViseGrips, and block the blade with a 2x4. Some WD-40 might help also.
Now that sounds logical. There has to be some designed way to keep the shaft from rotating. I bet it's in the manual too. I'd use a wrench that fits instead of VG though, to avoid rounding it off or slipping.
That doesn't work with blades often used on electric mowers where the drive is "friction" or "clutch" material on 2 washers clamping the blade between a fixed plate and a nut. Torque just makes the blade turn on the shaft where an impact gun uses the inertia of the blade and shaft to advantage and spins the nut off "like buttah" Many don't have a "flat" and the vice grips just chews the shaft and urinating on it does as much good as WD40 (unless you are talking one of their "specialist" products ) - you need a REAL penetrating oil to do any good. Heat can olaso help if there are no plastic parts involved (and some cheap mowers like B&D) use PLASTIC bushings instead of bearings - - -
They use a plastic part that breaks when you hit something solid with the blade, because that's better than damaging the shaft or the motor.
True
Don't know what the manual says but I've been using the impact for 50 years.VERY FEW have refused and required the "blue point wrench" - and I've done quite a lot of them over the decades
It's not left-handed.
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