I often throw a quart of ATF in about a week before the oil change.
ATF is very high detergent, and will knock a lot of dirt loose,& hold
it in suspension so when you do your oil change it gets flushed out.
When you change your oil catch it after a highway run, the drain plug
should be so hot you have a hard time handling it.
I've done the flush kerosene flush, i can't say it is all that
effective, & BTW diesel is pretty much oil and kerosene, so that works
Might want to try a different brand of motor oil. I had a
wicked piston rod knock in my last Blazer. Tried a couple
different brand of oil, and tried heavier weights. Catsrol
was the brand that quieted the rod knock for more than two
I do field service for a living and drive vehicles till the wheels
fall off. So far my highest mileage vehicle when retired to junk yard
was a 1990 caravan with about 450,000 miles or so. A little unsure
cause the odometer broke for awhile.:) Although It had a engine swap
near the end, maybe 400,000 miles
In any case my older vans get noisey lifters etc. Slick 50 silences
that, espically the noise after a vehicle sits for awhile./ I devote
one van to big deliveries and back up if the primary one breaks....
Never checked mileage or temperature but that noise disappears.
I use it every few oil changes. so the cost isnt a killer
Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.
There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.
Pure bullshit. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still
aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the
new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is
virtually no difference in the bottom end.
Well you can believe all you want. The rings went lo-tension in the
'80's, and the general tolerances are wider. And yes, the 50's engines
had aluminum pistons. Can't imagine they were ever anything else.
Some very old engines had cast iron pistons, but that was many years
ago. If there were any used in autos of the 50s, they must have been
old designs even then. The oldest engine I've personally had apart was
a Studebaker V-8 whose design dates to 1951; that had Al pistons. I
suspect that the Commander six (1933-ish?) also did, but I don't trust
my memory on that nor did a quick google confirm it.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Well, cast iron pistons were very common for many years, and please
check your specifications. Bearing clearances have stayed very close
to what they have been ever since full pressure lubrication became
standard and the running clearance of the pistons (when fully warm) is
the same or a bit tighter. Cam ground, eliptical, and hypereutectic
pistons have reduced piston slap when cold. Engines are only "looser"
in that the rings provide less resistance (friction) because they are
only half as wide as the "old school" piston rings, and the cyl wall
and ring finishes are much finer - which contribute to the
significantly reduced cyl wall wear. The "new generation" lubricants
help get the most out of this new mechanical technology - but they
will generally run just fine on the older oils - for a lot shorter
The latest modification to engine oils, the removal of zinc high
pressure friction reduction compounds, was mandated entirely for
emmissions reasons, as the compounds required to keep the zinc in
suspension poison the catalytic converters if the engines consume any
of the oil - and with 0W30 and 5W20 oils SOME is going to get past the
rings during the mandatedemissions guarantee period.
Actually,The theory is they are built TIGHTER which is why lighter
oils are used. In reality they are built about the same, on average,
but the tolerances are a lot better. MUCH more uniform.
The old oils will work, but not as long, and will foul up some of the
new controls. Can't have high zinc oils any more because they foul up
the catalytic converters if the oil is burned. Stuff like that.
the lighter oils are purely a gas saving thing. Has nothing to do with
the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million
engines at a time.
And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has
certification for every new engine.
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 20:29:46 -0600, Steve Barker
Sorry, but I can't really buy that. The lighter oils may be
in part for better mileage but they are also for better protection.
I wonder how many people realize that the first number is only
used to describe the oil when it is cold and the second number
describes the oil when it is at operating temperatures.
Certainly not mine. I drive a diesel and it is picky about
the oil it uses.
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:14:23 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yes, so? what would be wrong with a 0W50 in place of a 5W20?
Cold lubrication would be a non-issue because Ow flows better cold
than 5W, and hot protection would be better because 50 doesn't thin
out as much hot as 20 - The ONLY reason to use a 5W20 would be better
fuel mileage due to thinner oil requiring less power to pump.
Picky how? Is it a Turbo Deisel? Then it needs the top line turbo
deisel oil. Otherwise MOST deisels will run any good C rated oil like
Rotella T 15W40.
And there is a fair bit of oil available out there that does not meet
the latest and highest spec.
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