Automobile engine cleaning using mixture of kerosene and oil

[Ashton Crusher]

How do you know it wouldn't have come back to perfect readings without the MMO if you had simply changed the oil and run it for 20 minutes?

[clare]

Lets just say it was not Slick 50, Blue Coral, or Quaker State.

[clare]

ANd who's to say it would not have done the same without.

As for the "no oil engine" demonstration, that has also been called into question by the FTC if I remember correctly - and I have seen engines idle for hours without oil.With NO slick 50 or other snake oil added.

[clare]

Motor Honey, STP,, Bardahl 2, Lucas, or virtually any other VI improver would do the same job at a lot lower cost. 20W50 oil and the proper oil filter will do it too.

[clare]

Because we tried it - a couple times. Owner of the engine was just about ready to tear it down for a rebuild when I suggested the MMO. I had a bottle in the truck, and 20 minutes later, it was fixed.

[sligoNoSPAMjoe]

I would never use Slick 50. When they first marketed the stuff they destroyed many engines. I believe they have reformulated the product, but there is just no reason to use it.

[sligoNoSPAMjoe]

Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's car. It can damage modern cars.

There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand different oils, many need synthetic oils.

[Steve Barker]

Pure bullshit. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s

[sligoNoSPAMjoe]

You are saying that the 1950's engines used aluminum pistons? I believe you will find that overall modern engines are a little tighter not looser.

[clare]

Actually,The theory is they are built TIGHTER which is why lighter oils are used. In reality they are built about the same, on average, but the tolerances are a lot better. MUCH more uniform.

The old oils will work, but not as long, and will foul up some of the new controls. Can't have high zinc oils any more because they foul up the catalytic converters if the oil is burned. Stuff like that.

[clare]

Many 1950's engines DID use aluminum pistons, but most used cast iron (chevy stovebolt was the biggest seller)

[Steve Barker]

Well you can believe all you want. The rings went lo-tension in the '80's, and the general tolerances are wider. And yes, the 50's engines had aluminum pistons. Can't imagine they were ever anything else.

steve

[Steve Barker]

the lighter oils are purely a gas saving thing. Has nothing to do with the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million engines at a time.

And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has certification for every new engine.

steve

[Nate Nagel]

Some very old engines had cast iron pistons, but that was many years ago. If there were any used in autos of the 50s, they must have been old designs even then. The oldest engine I've personally had apart was a Studebaker V-8 whose design dates to 1951; that had Al pistons. I suspect that the Commander six (1933-ish?) also did, but I don't trust my memory on that nor did a quick google confirm it.

nate

nate

[clare]

Well, cast iron pistons were very common for many years, and please check your specifications. Bearing clearances have stayed very close to what they have been ever since full pressure lubrication became standard and the running clearance of the pistons (when fully warm) is the same or a bit tighter. Cam ground, eliptical, and hypereutectic pistons have reduced piston slap when cold. Engines are only "looser" in that the rings provide less resistance (friction) because they are only half as wide as the "old school" piston rings, and the cyl wall and ring finishes are much finer - which contribute to the significantly reduced cyl wall wear. The "new generation" lubricants help get the most out of this new mechanical technology - but they will generally run just fine on the older oils - for a lot shorter time. The latest modification to engine oils, the removal of zinc high pressure friction reduction compounds, was mandated entirely for emmissions reasons, as the compounds required to keep the zinc in suspension poison the catalytic converters if the engines consume any of the oil - and with 0W30 and 5W20 oils SOME is going to get past the rings during the mandatedemissions guarantee period.

[clare]

The Chevy "StoveBolt" six had cast iron pistons right up untill 1962

- Also known as the "cast iron wonder" It got full pressure lube and hydraulic lifters back in 1953 (pwerglide only) and 1954

[SteveB]

I put a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in there with an oil change, and run it half as long as I would a regular oil change. Old timers used to use a quart of diesel. It works to free up hydraulic lifters, and since we have few hot rodders, most 99.999999999999999999% of the population has hydraulics, not solid lifters. I DO NOT do this if I am going to drive that distance at highway speeds, but rather if I am going to do a mix of freeway speeds and round town driving. Drain, and change oil. I also like to use a probe that fits through the drain hole and sprays a high pressure jet onto the screen that is over the oil pick up in the pan. This dislodges crud that accumulates on the screen and inside the pan that normally does not drain out in a regular oil change. First time, put a filter under the outflow, and spend a full 15 minutes, or until you stop getting crap out, which will be 30 minutes if you really have a long extension and work it. Extends the life of motors tremendously. If you have a parts washer, this will do, but the higher the pressure, the more crud you will kick loose. A magnet in the drain plug also picks up ferrous metal fragments, and the new supermagnets epoxied onto the drain plug catches anything ferrous that is floating in the oil.

Advice from an old fart hotrodder who cut his teeth on '56 Chevies and 300 hp 327's.

imho, jmho, ymmv, etc, etc, etc

Run it like you stole it.

Steve

[Ashton Crusher]

Thanks for the reply. So often people don't have that kind of basis for their claims and then they get really mad because the question is asked.

[sligoNoSPAMjoe]

..

Sorry, but I can't really buy that. The lighter oils may be in part for better mileage but they are also for better protection.

I wonder how many people realize that the first number is only used to describe the oil when it is cold and the second number describes the oil when it is at operating temperatures.

Certainly not mine. I drive a diesel and it is picky about the oil it uses.

[clare]

Yes, so? what would be wrong with a 0W50 in place of a 5W20? Cold lubrication would be a non-issue because Ow flows better cold than 5W, and hot protection would be better because 50 doesn't thin out as much hot as 20 - The ONLY reason to use a 5W20 would be better fuel mileage due to thinner oil requiring less power to pump.

Picky how? Is it a Turbo Deisel? Then it needs the top line turbo deisel oil. Otherwise MOST deisels will run any good C rated oil like Rotella T 15W40. And there is a fair bit of oil available out there that does not meet the latest and highest spec.