I would like recomendations for the best way to attach an oak nosing
(oak chair rail with the top 1/2" or so ripped off, so just the large
rounded bead is now on top) to a ceramic tiled counter top. The
counter top consists of 5/8 underlayment - 1/2 durarock - 3/8" ceramic
tile. My thoughts are to glue the back of the nosing (best glue???
liquid nails? silicone? or other?) and finish nail trying to make
sure the nails hit the underlayment without splitting it. Would you
suggest to toenail two finish nails in opposite directions close to
each other? or would just straight in do the trick? This counter top
is in a kitchen. I have not stained or finished the back side of the
chair rail as of yet. Should I atleast put a clear coat on the back
to prevent any water damage or would that lessen the holding power of
the adhesive? I am using marine spar varnish as my clear coat. Any
thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Aliphatic (yellow) wood worker's glue. Strong, easy to vlean off while wet.
Type 2 is "water resistent", would be water proof for all intents.
You should drill pilot holes so you are *sure* of hitting the underlayment
which I assume is particle board. If it is, drill it too...just make the
pilot hole a smidge smaller in diameter than the nails. If I were using
nails (I wouldn't, I'd use screws) I'd nail about every 8" alternating the
If you glue, don't finish the back
I assume the top overhangs the face frame or cabinet edges? If so - and if
it were me - I'd add some 3/4 thick wood under the underlayment by
glueing/screwing up into the underlayment. That would give me a thicker
edge which would hold fasteners (screws) much better than the 5/8 particle
board and which isn't susceptible to splitting.
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glued biscuits. use a slot cutter. btw: eventually it will turn black due to
water getting to the oak, especially if you use anything with iron in it as
fasteners. since you can't finish the back if it's going to be glued, there
will be water intrusion hastening this look.
I do not have a biscuit cutter and even if I did I am not sure how I
would line up the slots to get a flush fit. I can put a clear coat on
the back of the oak before it is installed. Would you recommend
that?? I will look for stainless or galvanized nails. Thanks for the
point about the iron nails.
Thank You Charles
you can get a cheap biscuit cutter at HF, or you can probably rent one.
the b.c. has a fence to line up the slots correctly.
if you clearcoat the back, you can't use any glue to attach it. the glue
actually sinks into the wood, making a stronger bond.
if you have access to a tablesaw and a router, you could cut a slot in the
edge of the counter, and mill the back of the edging into a T shape to fit
i'd not use nails. i'd use countersunk brass or steel screws, and fill the
holes with plugs. you can buy plugs to match the wood you're using at
woodworking stores or online, or can make them from scrap wood if you buy a
plug cutter. you can even use contrasting wood plugs to make an interesting
effect, sort of like the deck of a boat.
try asking in rec.woodworking. there might be someone near you who can
produce this for you, if you go with custom made edging.
I had the exact same set up you re trying to do. I used 2" finishing nails
and Titebond II yellow glue.
I made sure there was a narrow space for a groutline between the oak and the
The assistant (wife) grouted and used 3 coats of grout sealer. Put a
waterbased Behr transparent stain on the oak after a coat of Behr wood
Then 3 coats of poly. Never had a water problem but just 2 adults using the
kitchen.. & No "Ducks"
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