Attaching light fixtures to trees....

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    LDS? Later Day Saints? That sounds more like Utah.
    Or did you mean LSD? :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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On 10/22/2010 9:39 PM DoN. Nichols spake thus:

It was a Trekkie in-joke.
--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
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Or you're shrinking like I am. I'm about an inch shorter now than I was in my 20's. Art
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On 10/21/2010 10:31 PM, Artemus wrote:

Which part of your body? 8-)
TDD
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Left myself wide open for that one! An inch shorter in height. I suspect the discs in my spine are compressing as I get older. Art
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On 10/21/2010 10:54 PM, Artemus wrote:

Ya but, your ears are bigger and your nose is longer. 8-) Oh yea, I forgot, your farts are louder.
TDD
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Artemus wrote:

Or you stopped wearing high heels. ;-)
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After 2 back surgeries Im about an inch shorter myself.
But that yard light is now about 14" higher then where I put it.
Damn..subsidence is insidious isnt it?
Gunner
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Gunner Asch wrote:

Only at the ends.
Hope This Helps! Rich
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Gunner Asch wrote: ...

...
Tree growth occurs in three places-- At the twig tips and root tips (meristem) and around the outside of the trunk, branches, and roots (cambium).
The meristem region of tissue expansion or tree growth is at the tips of both twigs and roots. This is unspecialized tissue that can form wood, buds, or flowers. Each year, trees will lengthen twigs and roots, produce flowers and fruit, and grow new buds.
As another poster has already noted, most of the bulk a tree trunk, branch, or root is dead wood. The living part is only a narrow of regenerating tissue (the cambium layer). Cambium produces new wood on its inside and new bark on its outside. The cambium grows only from the inside out, not up or down the length of a trunk, branch, or root.
Each year the cambium produces two distinct rings of tissue. In the spring, a layer of thinner-walled cells are grown. In the summer, a layer of thicker-celled, sometimes larger cells are grown. The layers are called "springwood" and "summerwood," respectively.
There's much on tree physiology at the Forest Products Laboratory web site as well as wood characteristics, drying, usage, etc., etc., etc., ...
--
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I've had a decorative thermometer screwed to a beautiful Silver Maple for years.
Something like this:
http://dobies.hostserver1.co.uk/im/pd/SUCLO19370_3.jpg
I've also still got the bracket I used to use to raise and lower a bird feeder years ago still screwed to same tree.
Based on how many leaves I rake - and remove from my gutters - each year, I don't think I've hurt the tree too much. ;-)
Besides, it's standard practice to "cable" a tree to keep it from splitting. A couple of screws or bolts isn't going to hurt an otherwise healthy tree.
http://www.abetterarborist.net/tree_cabling.html
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Existential Angst wrote:

Zero.
Wrap the tree with whatever that stuff is at the garden shop; looks like cardboard, and use spring-loaded clamps to hold up the lamp.
But don't penetrate the tree - it's like ringing the dinner bell for diseases and parasites.
Good Luck! Rich
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[Repairing headers to prevent hijacking of thread to an irrelevant newsgroup.]

This is guaranteed to damage the tree.

Do screw into the wood. It is the technique recommended in tree care books.
    Una
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On Thu 21 Oct 2010 02:32:01p, Una told us...

In a previous home on a heavily wooded lot in Ohio, we had a lot of landscape lighting installed in the trees, as well as brackets to hang bug-zappers. All the mounts were firmly screwed into the wood of the trees. The trees remained healthy, and actually began growing around the mounting brackets.
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Heh, perhaps a repair that fixed what wadn't broke......
rcm is far from an irrelevant newsgroup. ahr would be well served crossposting a variety of content over there, as that group has a most inneresting blend of a wide variety of pro's, diy-ers, and just generally smart problem solvers. Many on rcm will know more about certain specifics of a problem than yer fav contractor, altho they might not have the same overall skill level over the completed job.
AND, if for some reason the thread IS hijacked, most often it will be a very intelligent hijack. :)
Not knockin yer intent, just sayin said intent may have been a little misplaced here.
AND, not sayin rcm is "better" than ahr -- each has slightly different and most often very useful perspectives converging on a problem.
--
EA


>
> Rich Grise < snipped-for-privacy@example.net.invalid> wrote:
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An arborist told me to use stainless hanger bolts. Screw it into the tree and leave 2-3 inches sticking out. Thread a nut on only enough to add your whatever and another nut. This leaves plenty of space for the tree to grow in diameter before it hits the first nut. This also doesn't disturb the seal the tree made around the screw by having to back it out on an annual basis. Art
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I've had several dozen stainless steel eyes and screws in the oak trees around my house for decades. The wood grows tightly around the metal so I use minimum 5/16" eyes which are strong enough to not break when backed out every few years. I hang things from the eyes with shackles rather than fastening them tightly to the tree so it can grow beneath them.
My firewood had assorted plain and galvanized screws and nails in it. Sometimes plain steel nails stayed tight, sometimes the bark opened up around it to leave a wound. Quarter inch and smaller screws often break off when I remove them.
jsw
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No objections to any of that, other than that if the tree grows very fast and the homeowner forgets about it, it may cause more trouble than my way. When it reaches the first nut, the bark has already engulfed the hex part of the bolt. So the bolt cannot be backed out, and the light would need to be rehung on new bolts. Depending on the tree, this could happen many decades later, or just a few years later.
    Una
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snipped-for-privacy@att.net (Una) fired this volley in

part
need
many
So... Oh, well! If it's completely engulfed by new growth, it won't be a problem for the tree.
It might become a problem for the poor sap who runs that lumber through a surface planer 100 years from now. <G>
I looked pretty closely at the stuff in Williamsburg. Almost without exception, it's not hanger bolts, it's lag bolts. I suspect they just check them periodically for "engulfment", and adjust them. All in all, that wouldn't be too often per tree. They'd just have to have a PM schedule.
LLoyd
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Una wrote:

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

Yes, but the new bolts will require new penetrations, each with a small but non-zero risk of injury to the tree.

Yes. I think that's the decision point for the OP. If scheduled PM is the norm, go for lag bolts. If set-it-and-forget-it is more the norm, go for hanger bolts. Given these lights will be 20 feet up, I'd favor hanger bolts (long ones).
    Una
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