Sorry last post was truncated...
I have to attach some brass fittings to concrete block walls. Those are
"drop ear 90" at the end of copper water supply lines that look like this:
I tried using TAPCON screws but the shalft is too big for the small holes.
I could put some 1/2" furring backing on but that would require me to move
all the plumbing on that wall out (shower valve, diverter, hand shower, body
sprays, overhead shower etc...).
Any idea how to attach these to the concrete block walls when these holes
are so tiny? I guess I can drill bigger holes, but if there is an obvious
answer I missed would appreciate a heads up.
Thanks in advance,
Those drop ear elbows are designed to be screwed to wood.
Typically, I drill the holes out to 3/16" & use #10 SS sheet metal
In your situation, I'd use brass machine screws (~1-1/4" to 1-1/2")
with double nuts to create little headed mounting studs..
Drill holes in the blocks including recesses to accept the nuts on the
back side of the drop ear elbow.
Use SIKA Anchorfix #1 (Fast set ~5 min gel, 1hr cure) to attach the
Well clearly the TAPCON screws that you currently have available to
you are too large to fit into the provided holes in the fitting you
attach, so you either need to find TAPCON screws which will fit the
holes you need them to pass through (as miraculous as it sounds
they are available in MANY sizes), OR you need to obtain normal
screws and the appropriate plastic anchors which will allow them to
be used in a concrete block wall...
It isn't rocket science -- you frequently post these odd ball
about the most simple aspects of a more complicated project...
This is the sort of stuff that diverges from the "ah, i can see how it
is designed to work together" engineering aspect to the "how do
i attach this contraption to the rest of what all is there" practical
If you don't know how to attach the fitting to a concrete block wall
then even if you know how to solder the copper pipes, you shouldn't
be doing this work -- pay someone who has done the job before to
do it for you, keep your mouth shut and your eyes open while they
do the work and you can learn the legitimate way -- by paying
a person who does the work for a living to show you how...
that has a small enough shaft to fit into these fitting holes, that's why I
asked. I have all sizes I could find. Please point me to a source with a
smaller then 3/16" sizes.
OR you need to obtain normal
not comfortable with it.
research and execute them. The simple aspects is where I may look for help
here as someone may know off hand. Complex issues are not appropriate in
forums of this nature.
workmanship. I learned a lot of what NOT to do by observing pros, or people
who pretend they are pros. I would not have to do this if they did their
job right in the first place.
I'll give you the same advice Evan gave, minus his nasty editorial
remarks: Use screws and plastic wall anchors.
If you're not comfortable with these, then get comfortable with them.
They'll hold that plumbing in place plenty well.
If you don't like the plastic anchors, you could always use metal ones.
(Can you still get those old-school lead anchors?)
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
Been there, done that. Drilled 3/8" hole in brick/block/whatever,
inserted wood dowel coated with slow cure epoxy and set flush, used #8
x 1" sheet metal screw. Still working fine after 10 years or so. Pilot
hole in dowel helps.
Then use this product with a #8 screw that is least 1.5" long.
I know Ace sell them and I think Lowes does.
I use the red one with #6 or #8 HH screws. Hung a lot of heavy blinds and
drapes. Never had a callback.
If you CAN NOT find any TAPCONS that will fit through your hole, then
make the hole larger with a drill and a bench vise...
In this case you really are showing your inexperience -- I have never
a problem getting a TAPCON through holes that were a little small
a REAL electric hammer-drill to install them...
If you were unable to figure out that you can safely enlarge the holes
that fitting then again, you should not be the one to be installing it
is beyond your ability to install... Sometimes looking at a situation
look for the simplest solution to make it work is better than trying
find what you think you need...
Your other comments about workmanship are really bogus -- you are
a critic of all the trades and a master of none... Do you really
that the fitting will fall out if you install it with a normal screw
a plastic anchor made for concrete block ? Really, what with the
fact that it will soon be braced in place with the shower head you
screw into it... As far as you not being able to "get a piece of
strapping in behind the fitting" to help you attach it, you are really
showing your utter lack of woodworking ability and imagination if
you can not figure out how to cut away material on a piece of
wood so that it can brace a plumbing fitting without sticking
out of the wall too far...
This is where the guy who has done this sort of thing hundreds
of times, whose job you find "substandard" has over you, they
know that it doesn't have to support thousands of pounds -- it
just has to stay where it is put without falling out...
That was one of the options, I choose not to do it yet because I have about
half a dozen of these drop ear 90s to attach to concrete block walls and
that's why I came here looking for opinions. That does not mean I am
clueless as to what I do, I simply want to see what others suggest and
sometimes someone would say something that might not have occured to me.
Again, that is my chose not to enlarge those cast brass holes unless I had
Anyone here asking any question is either asking for opinion to supplement
their own, or they are looking for help.
I admit I am master of none. Does not bother me. That's why I come here to
ask for help some times.
Again, taking a simple question and formulated your own assumptions into it
and making a judgement. No one says the fitting will "fall out", the
fitting is a cast brass fitting soldered onto copper pipes. Since it is a
female threaded fitting and will be receive a nipple connection, the force
it will be subjected to will be torque, the two screws are supposed to hold
it in place for that purpose. I don't want to use plastic anchors, that's
as simple as that.
As far as you not being able to "get a piece of
There is no wood involved. This is a set of valves and fittings attached to
concrete block walls. If it's wood backing I wouldn't be asking these
questions. The shower valve has a set minimum and maximum thickness and in
considerations on all the parameters I placed the outlets where they are.
To insert wood behind them would have caused the valve to protrude too much,
that's why I recessed the valve into the block wall.
Again, you are assuming things about situations you know absolutely nothing
about. Yes I hired an AC pro who have installed hundreds of AC units in the
attic and he ended up cutting two of my trusses to accommodate the
replacement after I told him to find a similar size unit. I hired a
plumbing company to relocate my DWV system and they end up sending
completely twisted my 3/4" soft copper line, and put sleeves over it to
conceal the kink and twist, then they ran a 2" PVC vent line right across
the opening of my existing attic access door etc etc etc...so Yes, I am
doing a much better job then they are.
You are making baseless assumptions on why I asked what I asked based on
your own limited imagination, short sighted extrapolations and biased
subjectivity. Thank you very much. You shall have the last word on this if
you wish, if it makes you feel better and superior, I am glad.
Argument ? No... Calling out foolishness that has been well
demonstrated over time -- Yes...
I mean have you ever gone back and read your own questions
to see just how "out there" some of them are ?
Yet you are able to gripe about past projects and weird mistakes
that trades workers have made yet you are totally OCD'ing on
how to screw a plumbing fitting to a concrete block wall...
Pot -- meet kettle... Plain and simple man...
You can't claim that your posting history doesn't exist, period...
That is not an argument...
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