Attaching a post to a concrete block wall

Need to repair a fence. For end post, am planning on attaching it (4x4 PT) to the edge of a concrete block wall. Dunno if the blox are filled or not, so would assume not. The fence is a low (~5' high) "woven-wood" job, made with 1/4" bender boards and 4x4 posts. Homeowner isn't particularly picky, just wants to make sure their dog stays out of the neighbor's yard.
Looking in the Simpson /Anchoring and Fastening Systems For Concrete and Masonry/ book, it seems my choices are:
o "Titen" screws o "Heli-Tie" helical wall ties o Lag screw w/expansion shield
(I'm leaving out the epoxy ties, and a couple other fasteners I just plain don't want to use).
The screws (Titen) look suspicious to me, screwing into crumbly concrete. But the cover of the book shows an actual job using them, where four large steel eyes, each screwed in with 6 Titens, were used to lift 20,000 lb. slabs, so I guess they do work.
Actually, I'm tempted to go with an expansion anchor, like a Sleeve-All or a Wedge-All. (I've used similar fasteners from other manufacturers but not Simpson's.)
So what do the expert builders out there say? How would you do this?
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powerless means to side with the powerful, not to be neutral.
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DN:
For something cosmetic like a fence, I like to use Tapcon screws. I presume the Titens are like these. They're fast and hold well, and you can drill through the wood instead of marking.
A P
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On Nov 13, 10:52 pm, autobus snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I too was suspicious of the Simpson Titens screws but they work & are a good product.
Tapcons could also work.
Actually Tapcons & Titens suplly less splitting force on the base material than a wedge product.
If the wall is ungrouted you could also use toggle bolt or a toggle stud. If the wall is ungrouted you're only going to the block's face thickness.
I recommend SIKA Anchor Fix #1 (gels in ~5 minutes, full strength in less than 1 hour dispenses from standard caulking gun) threaded rod or bolts with the heads ground down.
cheers Bob
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David Nebenzahl wrote:

The screws do work, if you drill the pilot holes properly. Folks who can't hold a drill straight and wallow out the hole as they drill will have problems with them as the hole dia is critical with them. If the application is only applying side / shear loading on them they are probably the easiest to use.
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For cinder block and brick, outdoors, any ancor will come loose especially on a gate or fence that vibrates. So i like to epoxy (pc11 2 part) whatever anchor I use as well, then they never come out and are sealed from water etc. I dust out the hole real good, slather a lot of epoxy into the hole and on the ancor, then anchor it with the bolt. I hung an 8 foot cedar driveway gate from 2 epoxied hinges into brick that never moved in 10 years.
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On 11/14/2008 8:11 AM RickH spake thus:
>

So would you epoxy in bolts (studs or Allthread), or epoxy in the Titen fasteners? How about if I use epoxy on the Titens? Makes it a lot easier, as I wouldn't have to somehow prop the bolts up until they set (they'd be going into the wall horizontally).
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I epoxy wherever fastener meets brick and just fill the hole before I insert, most fasteners have nooks and crannies or threads that let some epoxy live between the two, the glob of epoxy in the hollow brick/ block behind the fastener also mushrooms out to prevent pull out. Once that stuff hardens there is no reversing so if the bolt needs to be removed someday you will have to just grind it off flush with the wall.
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