attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?


so... how in the world can I flash from a roof to t1-11? just fill the grooves with foam insulation rope and caulk (and then a face board)? fill the grooves with caulk and run flashing in front? has anyone done this? I just recently bituthened the joint, running up the t1-11 about 5 inches. I figured I would screw a board into the t1-11 and caulk the snot out of it... but that is basically how it was done previously.. and it would occasionally leak a bit. What's a good move here? Any input would be appreciated.
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If this is a roof edge (rake edge) that meets the vertical siding, it's done with step-flashing, i.e. one 5x7 or 8x8 inch flashing card under each shingle that laps out into the lower course. These are installed with a slightly >90 degree bend that slips up behind the siding. If it's a shed type roof that meets the siding, it's done with a flashing that starts a few inches up under the t1-11 and laps down and out onto the top course of the roof, covering the fasteners of said course. There are instructions on how to do these procedures on every bundle of shingles. How many jumps you got? Tom
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Looks like the original installers didn't flash it at all. I've had the house for 12 years and the garage was just tar and paper abutted to the t1-11. I just finished putting bituthene on the whole roof while I wait for next Spring to put on a metal roof. It will be snowing up here in a couple days... so Spring will have to do. Looks like maybe I can get up there with a worm drive and cut through the t1-11 a couple inches above the roof line, and then attempt to pull out the t1-11 enough to try to poke some flashing in behind for drainage. Looks like a pain in the butt coming my way :) Any ideas on what to use? a 6" roll and just bend it myself after it gets tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from eave to peak on two sides.
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I'd use aluminum coil stock, and find someone with a brake. You don't have to install the shed flashing in one piece. Maybe two or even three pieces with a three-inch lap. Enjoy. Tom
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Whoops. After re-reading your post, it sounds like you've got some step-flashing to do. Tom
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roof, I will end up cutting it maybe 3-4 inches above the roof. I will then pry the siding away from the studs a little bit, which will allow me to insert some flashing and then nail it down. The flashing will then shed onto the roof, which is already coated 100% with bituthene, and the bituthene actually crawls up the t1-11 siding about 3-4 inches. Would it really matter if I used step flashing, or 10ft sections?
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xparatrooper wrote:

He missed the part where you will be putting on metal roofing. Step flashing would be appropriate for shingles. I'm no expert, but your plan sounds fine to me- basically a valley with one vertical side. If and when I ever reskin my deck, I need to do about the same thing where idiot previous owner nailed the deck ledger boards directly to the damn siding- cut the siding back, flash, and hang the ledger boards off waterproofed standoffs.
-- aem sends...
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whew... thanks for that.
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You're right, I missed the metal roofing. And I did _assume_ shingles, Jumper, go up under the siding with the bituthane, and lap it _outside_onto the siding at the eave(you'll have to make a sort of vertical cut in the siding), then install the rake panel with a bend a few inches up under the siding. Make sure you allow the water to exit from behind the siding at the eave on this piece, too. Good catch, aem, thanks. Tom
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