I repair office machines and one of my customers has a rolling cart they lost the key for, and they now want use the stuff in that cabinet.....
I tried getting keys from the cabinet supplier but they didnt work...
has anyone ever drilled out a lock?
I would rather avoid damaging the cabinet much. and other than flip or flop have never seen anyone drill out a lock. on flip or flop they just start drilling, but never show what happens.
On Friday, May 1, 2015 at 7:29:44 PM UTC-5, bob haller wrote:
drilling, but never show what happens.
Those are easy to pick, usually disc tumblers...bend a paper clip to have a
bump on the end of the wire Like a small V about 1/16" high...hold a turn
ing pressure on the barrel (preferably in the direction it opens), go back
and forth across the tumblers (rake). They will get hug-up one by one until
I can't speak for a rolling cart but I have drilled out a few file
cabinet locks because of lost keys. I start with small bits into the
center of the core and increase bit sizes until it reaches the tumblers
then pow, the cylinder pops out. In many cases the lock assembly can be
replaced but the office personnel doesn't care and just leaves it that way.
I've been a locksmith since 1986 or so.
The cabinet probably has a very simple lock. If you
can load the cabinet in a vehicle, call the locksmiths
near you, see if one will let you bring it in. Save
yourself a trip charge. Should be able to make new
keys easy enough. Or, I can come out. Dollar fifty a
mile (one way from Buffalo, NY). Probably half hour
labor to make new keys.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
I had a 66 Chevelle and my key fit my dad's 65 Impala but his key
wouldn't fit mine. Back in the olden days if there were 10 guys in a
bar with a GM, you had a chance one of them had a key that would start
your car. They all used the same blank and there were not that many
different keys, along with a pretty crude wafer lock. A worn key was
better than a new one for starting someone else's car. Wiggle the key
a little while trying to turn it and you could tease all the wafers
into lining up.
About the time they started putting the key on the steering post, they
used more styles of blanks and they increased the number of key
patterns they cut. Now a "chipped" key is pretty much standard.
During those years I think there were only a few key choices in most brands.
In high school 3 friends each had a ford of the same year. The keys were
not a total match, but one key would start two of the cars and the door key
would not fit, but if moved to the other car, it would open that door. I
had a Chevy key that fit a Tempest of a friend.
On Sunday, May 3, 2015 at 8:33:57 AM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
the garage i always went to, the mechanic did some work on the carb. I pull
ed out into heavy traffic and found the throttle stuck. by the time I got t
he engine stopped it had self destructed.....
the garage said they would pay for a used engine and install it for free
so i offered to pay the difference between the used engine, and a new GM en
gine in a crate. it cost 1500 bucks, but i forget what GM called them:( thi
nk i paid 700 bucks. the garage found the crate engine took a lot more labo
r, bolting on all the accesories and perhaps the head?
it all worked out I was that pro cares top customer $ wise.
that citation was a v6, my 4 cyclinder engine got a head gasket leak at jus
t over 100,000 miles, and after repairs it went to near 170,000 miles.
i replaced citations with dodge caravans,, my one went 450,000 miles...
it was like a family member died when it was towed away:(
at one time i was driving 45K miles a year, fixing office machines
On Sunday, May 3, 2015 at 7:46:23 AM UTC-5, bob haller wrote:
You know how you always hear: "it seized-up" or "it threw a rod"? I rebuilt
mine...this is what happened, the undriven gear's pin in the oil pump move
d out of the pump casing and was hit by the crank...breaking the pump case.
Zero oil pressure, zero outside temp...and a female driving...the rest is
Yes, I've drilled out scores of them. I had a sideline business repairing
arcade games, pinball machines and such. One problem was that the workers
were continually losing keys. Typical 'flat-key' locks take about a 1/4" or
3/8" standard bit and a few minutes. 'Cylinder-key' locks take a bit longer
since you need to center-punch first.
The really buggers are locks such as those made by Medeco and used on
change machines and high-value vending machines. _Those_ require a bit of
initial drilling to get a start and then, of all things, a carbide masonry
bit (at least that is the best I ever found). Those lock bodies have
hardened steel rods buried in them which catch the drill bit so a heavy
corded drill and a lot of caution to avoid a broken wrist. With those I
sometimes expended two or three cheap bits because of dulling and breakage.
Your typical cheap cylinder cabinet lock should be gone in a couple of
minutes with a combination of drill and screwdriver.
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