I've read a lot of the replies, but can't identify with epoxies, etc. If it were mine, I would dab a couple of coats of gloss acryllic paint (useful for all kinds of emergencies), let them cure very well. Afterward, it would not take washing in hot water, but would keep grease from soaking in under the glaze and discoloring it. I've owned lots of antique doo-dads, and only bought those I indended to use......not worth having if only to dust them off :o) Fortunately for my family, the most treasured one broken was my fault :o)
I bought a small can of appliance touch-up paint and a small jar of acrylic paint. The touch-up paint suggests that it is dry in 15-20 minutes. The acrylic paint takes 48 hours to cure fully.
I tried each one on a old dish. The acrylic paint seems to be a bit thicker and has a shinier finish (at least after about an hour) that is closer to the finish on the dish, but it is a different white. The touch-up paint is almost exactly the same color, but it has a duller finish.
Both of them leave a slightly raised area on the dish. I expected that with the acrylic paint, but was surprised that the touch-up paint didn't lay flatter.
So, it looks like I will go with the touch-up paint because of the color match provided that I can find a way to polish it enough to bring out a little more shine and get it down to the save level as the surrounding surface.
What's the best way to polish the dish after the paint has cured? Will a fine grit sandpaper (600?) work? Or pumice like they use to polish glass?
On Fri 21 Nov 2008 01:11:07p, Square Peg told us...
Pumice is sold as both as a powder and as a paste. Either will do. A cloth soaked in water then wrung out well works best for the paste. It should be wetter for the powder.
I think you run the risk of damaging the original glaze adjacent to the patch if you use a stone on it. Too easy to slip, IMO.
I went to a local hardware store. They didn't have pumice except as a rather coarse stone, but they did have rubbing compound is two grits for polishing car paint. I bought a can of the finest and the next finest.
I tried a little of both on the bottom of the butter dish. Neither one scratched the glaze at all. I then tried the finest grit on the face where I had patched the chip and cracks. It slowly removed the touch-up paint. The problem is that on the hairline cracks, it removed all of th touch-up paint. It didn't look like the paint had adhered to the glaze very well. It also did not seep into the hairline cracks, but sat on top. In the chip, it removed the excess paint down to the level of the surface, but it did not leave a smooth edge. Again, the paint did not appear to adhere to the glaze.
The result is much better than a chipped dish, but it is still noticeable and not completely smooth.
I am wondering if I should use something stronger than the touch-up paint, like an tinted epoxy? I think of epoxy as much thicker than paint, so if the paint wouldn't seep into the cracks, would the epoxy?
On Tue 25 Nov 2008 05:36:50p, Square Peg told us...
You?ll never make it look like it didn?t happen. Cracks are never likely to absorb a pigment. Paint of any type will rarely adhere to glazed pottery or china, especially if you haven?t deliberately roughened the surface, which you probably don?t want to do. If it were me I?d accept the best effort and let it go at that. Some things just are possible. If you wife is expecting more, then she?s expecting too much.
It doesn't look too bad as it is -- certainly better than with the chip exposed. And it will be covered up with butter most of the time.
I bought a small jar of acrylic paint. It's a slightly different shade of white and, as you say, it doesn't stick to the glaze very well. If I can match the color a little better, I'd be willing to paint just the inside of the base. I'd roughen up the glaze first.
Bad idea?
She isn't expecting anything. I thought I would surprise her and maybe score a few points. Christmas is coming! ;-)
It looks like the appliance touch-up paint won't stick to the clay under the glaze. The paint I applied to the chip, chipped out itself.
Before I give up completely, I am thinking about trying some epoxy. I stopped at a local auto parts store and picked up a package or PermaOxy 5 minute epoxy by permatex
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It claims to bond ceramic, chrome, fabric, fiberglass, glass, hard plastic, metal, and rubber.
I have a couple of questions:
The epoxy is clear. I would like to mix it with a little paint. I would prefer to use the touch-up paint, because the color is closer, at least full strength. I also have the acrylic paint, which it a whiter white.
Is one more likely to mix well with the epoxy?
About how much paint should I use?
Should I mix a little epoxy with each one on an old dish to check the color and hardness?
I think part of the reason the touch-up paint didn't stick might have been because the fired clay under the chip wasn't clean. I cleaned it thoroughly with warm water and soap, but it had been sitting under a stick of butter for months. The grease could have seeped into the clay.
I am wondering if I should use some paint thinner or acetone or something?
What's the best way to apply the epoxy? I just need a very thin film. It only took 3-4 coats of the touch-up paint to fill the chip.
On Thu 04 Dec 2008 07:28:12p, Square Peg told us...
By design, epoxy adhesives are, for the most part, comprised of two materials, the filler and the hardener. They are not likely to mix well with anything else without compromising the curing process. I think you?ll end up with a mess.
That certainly wouldn?t hurt, and would more likely clean any grease content from the chip.
That might work, or a very small palette knife from an arts supply store.
Yes, epoxy can be filed or sanded.
I would suggest cleaning as you suggested above. Then mixing and filling the chip with epoxy. When the epoxy is cured, I would sand the surface not only to flatten it level with the surrounding glaze, but to give it a slightly rough surface for the touch-up paint to adhere to.
That?s probably your best chance. Lordy, I don?t have your patience or tenaciousness. :)
Hmmm... Bob Hofmann suggested tinting epoxy. I wonder what he used for tint. They didn't have anything at the auto parts store where I bought the epoxy.
Do you think that the epoxy will take the touch-up paint well after it's cured? I can test that on a piece of scrap.
It's just a little puzzle project. I enjoy puttering.
On Thu 04 Dec 2008 10:01:58p, Square Peg told us...
I?d ask Bob. :) I would be amazed if adding a paint to an epoxy mixture would work. Perhaps there are powdered or special paste tints that are used with epoxy. I don?t know. I?m not an expert.
My guess is that it will, if you sand and roughen up the surface of the epoxy. I would highly recommend testing it on a piece of scrap.
I guess we all putter in different ways. I do fix things around the house that need it, and usually replace rather than repair the parts. Right now I?m in the process of adding additional weather stripping around the perimeter of our exterior doors.
When I putter, it?s usually in the kitchen. I enjoy cooking and baking.
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