Any such thing as in-place pipe dope?

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This might be a good time to mention my fondness for J.B.Weld, but it would mean some really good surface prep, and having the line shut down for at least 24 hours

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Yeah, I know. Seeing as it is only a 'pinhole' leak, I thought I'd check to see if there was a product certified for this purpose. Sounds like there isn't. I'll give the loctite some consideration, but will probably go with breaking it apart and putting in a union.

Don't even get me started. My favorite was the 1/2" copper water line which they bent - without benefit of a bender - about 20 degrees to get it around something. It crimped considerably, and they wanted to leave it like that, arguing that not only did it meet code, but it also met the standards of 'good workmanship' which the contract specified. I ended up cutting it out and repairing it myself, as I refused to have the wall closed up with that in it. Or the standard 'duct tape' (which doesn't meet code, at least here) that they used to tape up some HVAC duct work, and then when I protested treated me like *I* was the idiot for not knowing that "That's what duct tape is for - ducts!".
Thanks (everyone) for the recommendations,
Kelly
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Indeed, I see the Loctite remedy as a possibility http://www.loctite.us/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm ? pageid&layout=4&productline=OEM4000 But I find a second layer of protection to be nice. Such as J.B.Weld. But to keep it from niggling at the back of your mind, redoing those joints correctly is going to do a lot for your mental wellbeing. Gonna be a while before you trust someone else to do a job, isn't it?
Loctite could well do it for you, though.
On Feb 17, 7:39 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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Sure hate those extra-long URLs. After pasting the second line of the site on, we get a portion of their product line that reads
    Loctiteฎ Liquid Thread Sealants seal and secure metal pipes and fittings, filling the space between threaded metal parts, and hardening to prevent leakage. Designed for low and high pressure applications, liquid thread sealants seal instantly for low pressure testing. When fully cured, they seal to the burst strength of most piping systems.
Tonight, on a Mythbusters sequence, they had a propane setup with a leak. They used a vacuum to draw Crazyglue into the joint, then finished the seal with "Engine Epoxy". They can't show brand names, but it was J.B.Weld that they were using.

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The Loctite product 579 is meant to be applied prior to assembly to clean & dry threads. Parts are to be assembled & torqued, low strength seal achieved immediately, high strength in 24 hrs.
I doubt this stuff will work "after the fact" unless there is a method to draw the material into the thread plus any contamination might effect cure.
cheers Bob
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Gas lines aren't under much pressure. I suspect that the "right stuff" cold seal it even without turning off the gas. If you could turn off the gas even chewing gum might work.
If you could draw a slight vacuum ...
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Plastic welding may work.
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I would not mess around I would redo it or have it done, it's not just a simple water leak.
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On Feb 17, 3:18 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

If it were anything but a flammable, I'd consider it, but it's too risky w/ the fuel line imo.
If it were me, if you don't want to do it yourself, I'd hire somebody competent and send the bill to the bumbleheads. I guess strictly speaking, they're owed a chance to make it right, but I'd be reluctant to give them another chance since it is the propane line.
If it is a _major_ dissassembly to get there, while not ideal, could cut the line and insert a union to put it back together -- while fewer joints is better, I'd be more comfortable w/ two non-leaking joints than one leaker w/ a patch...
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And, of course, you should really do a pressure test after the repair before putting the line back into service...
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Sometimes you just have to do the job right. Sorry, no good shortcuts, especially with gas. You must get the threads to close up, not use a filler.
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One answer is to call the bumbleheads back, and ask them to redo the job. Of course, this might not work any better the second time.
I know of no after the assembly sealant. Wish I did, I coulda used it myself a few times.
At this point, the repair is considerable work. Dissemble the pipe from the union to where the leak is. It's also possible to take the elbow out with a sawzall, and dissemble some pipe. Replace a length of pipe with two shorter pieces, and another union.
--

Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
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On Sun, 18 Feb 2007 09:43:49 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"

I am surprised that we got this far into this thread and nobody has pointed out pipe dope and teflon tape is there as a lubricant, not a sealant. It allows you to get the pipe tight enough for a good metal to metal seal. Any of these "after the fact" solutions are just a hack that may fail later and blow up your house. If you ever saw a gas explosion you would not even think about doing this. It will turn your house into kindling spread around the neighborhood.
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That's not quite true.
The pipe dope permits elbows to be positioned at any position in that "last turn" without leakage.
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