Any Source to Buy Conductive Anti-Seize Compound?

[Jay Chan]

I would like to know where I can find conductive anti-seize compound. Then I can use it to re-secure an anode rod on a water-heater. None of the home center or plumbing supply stores in my area carry anti-seize compound conductive or non-conductive. The only place that I can find anti-seize compound is in an auto-supply store but it doesn't seem to be conductive (they use anti-seize compound on spark plugs; therefore conductive anti-seize compound probably is not a good idea). Seem like I should mail order it from internet.

I find in internet something called a "Copper Based Anti-Seize Compound". But it doesn't say whether it is conductive, nor how much % of copper it has. I am under the impression from reading in this newsgroup that I should get anti-seize compound that has 80% copper. Without knowing the % of copper in it. I hesitate to order it.

I also find in internet something called "Arrow 09 Copper Anti-Seize Grease" from Arrow Engineering. It is fully conductive according to the product specification. It says it is lead-free and is great for petrochemical industrial for oil piping. But it doesn't say if it is safe to use with residential drinking water supply.

Please help me to find a source of a conductive anti-seize compound for securing anode rod in a water heater.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

[Rich]

[Greg]

Why wouldn't a spark plug need a conductive anti-sieze compound? It goes between the plug threads and the block. The never-sieze compound is good stuff. The plugs in my motorcycles and outboards seem to conduct fine. I doubt you could really find any compound that would prevent threaded fittings from conducting anyway. There will always be significant metal to metal contact. The anti-sieze is to fill the microscopic voids where corrosion grows.

[Joe Bobst]

Any antiseize compound at your auto supply outlet will do just fine. Permatex makes the kind that mechanics like best.. Some are copper fillled, others are aluminum filled, both work just fine. HTH

Joe

[George E. Cawthon]

[Jay Chan]

Thanks for the link. But most of their products don't indicate if they are food-safe. The only one that is marked as food-safe doesn't say if it is conductive or not. Oh well...

Jay Chan

[Jay Chan]

I read some articles in the web saying that conductive anti-seize compound on spark plug may come in contact with the electrical compound in the spark plug and cause some misfire or something... (sound like an operator error) I am not sure if this is true or not. I am just repeating what I came across in the web.

Yours is a very good point. Seem like I am better off simply use regular teflon tape, and wrap the thread 3/4 way and leave 1/4 to have solid contact. Good to know this. Thanks.

Jay Chan

[Jay Chan]

I saw the type that you mentioned when I asked for anti-seize compound in the maintenance department in where I work yesterday. It is designed specifically for electronical compounds. But its label warns against using it near food. I don't think I will use it near drinking water.

Thanks anyway.

Jay Chan

[Jay Chan]

Sound like the auto supply store where I went is not well stocked.

Anyway, I have decided not to use anti-seize compound. Instead, I will wrap the thread 3/4 way with teflon tape and leave 1/4 threaded surface to have a solid contact. Then, I will have an easy time to unscrew it next year while the anode rod still has contact with the water heater body to allow it to function.

Jay Chan

[tnom]

They do make such stuff. I have a bottle at work. I will try and post the info tomorrow.

[tnom]

[tnom]

[Jay Chan]

I have decided to use teflon tape to wrap 3/4 of the threaded area and leave the rest to have solid contact. This means I don't intend to use anti-seize compound any more. I appreciate your effort in locating some of the conductive anti-seize compound. Thanks.

Jay Chan

[Greg]

I think you would find that even if you put the teflon tape all the way down you would still have significant metal to metal contact, assuming you don't use too much tape. Most homeowners overdo the tape. Teflon tape is a lubricant, not a sealant.

[Calm n Collected]

Not hardly. Teflon tape is used on gas valves on high pressure cylinders.

[Greg]

That has nothing to do with how it works. Teflon tape simply allows the threads to slide and deform until you get a metal to metal seal. Teflon is used because it is slippery, not because it seals well. Pipe dope is grease. The pipe threads are tapered and that is what seals. It is also why used pipes don't go together as well as new ones. If there is a sealing function it is on the microscopic scale. It isn't like a washer or gasket.

[John Gilmer]

I would like to see an "anti-seize" compound that COULD insulate the two metal parts from each other.

Even if you used Teflon tape, there would be electrical conductivity. In the case of an anode in a water take, the current involved is so small that any contact will "do the job."

Don't worry about it. Make sure it doesn't poison you!

[Jay Chan]

Good to know that. Seem like I definitely can use teflon tape. I just need to make sure I don't use too much -- I am the type who tends to use too much teflon tape.

Jay Chan

[Jay Chan]

Is this the same reason why manufacturer recommend us to replace the gas pipe connecting to a waterheater whenever we replace the waterheater? (I saw that warning on a package of homeowner waterheater flexible connecting fittings replacement kit.) Does this mean that the threads of such gas pipe fitting becomes deformed when it is being screwed into another fitting?

Jay Chan