Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.
No. A grinder will more likely start the wood on fire than cut it. There is
good reason you don't find wood "blades" for an angle grinder. It's
absolutely the wrong tool for the job.
A circular saw will work fine. Be careful with nails, though. A circular saw
will cut them (as long as you don't care about the blade) but it might throw
them too. Wear *lots* of protection. A "Sawsall" (reciprocating saw) is a
better tool for the job, though.
Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.
You can use a cheap jigsaw with wood ripping blade if you cut them
over a table. Very quick unless stuff is >2in thick.
You can use a reciprocating saw - like a normal handsaw but two blades
driven like hedge trimmer blades, but they cost somewhat more (better
for chopping thro old studwork).
I would not suggest even a handheld circular because of the risk - you
are working "sloppy-fast" which could result in kickback or accidents.
The jigsaw would probably be best for thin cladding (shiplap etc), a
lot quicker than you realise.
On Sat, 15 May 2010 13:22:33 -0700 (PDT), js.b1 wrote:
The OP hasn't said what he intends to do with the cut wood. If it's
for a wood burner reasonably uniform size and few splinters is
desirable. Sawing would be the best, I used my table saw (and an old
blade) to cut down the shiplap from our shed refurbishment. That was
for the open fire.
If it's just to make managable for a bonfire, the quickest will be
snapping though over ones knee will probably end up with a bruised
knee fairly quickly. Much better to have a block on the ground a few
inches high and tough pair of boots and use your weight or a stomp to
break it up. I reckon that will be faster than a jigsaw and you still
have the problem of holding the timber.
I have a very cheap Wilkinson's 'Swallow' jigsaw which came with a good
selection of blades. After making up maybe 20' of fence going up a steep
slope, from old rescued fence boards of all different lengths, I was amazed
at how easy it was to put a nice profile right along the top using one of
the longer coarsish blades. Should be fine for your shed.
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
fit enough to use hand saws...
I have an even cheaper PPro one I bought in a clearance and it does roots
It says maximum cut 100mm but it cuts anything the blade fits, I have some
10" green wood blades and it works fine.
For demolition I have some tungsten tipped blades and just cut through the
wood and metal.
The whole lot was ~£20.
What's the travel like on the blades of those saws? I certainly have a
need for a rough'n ready powered saw for that sort of use, but had
always thought they looked a bit too small, and Alligator-types were a
bit OTT/out of my price range. But taking out a 12" tree sounds
Valid, but only relevant if you are making money with it, or use it a
LOT. For occasional users like me, a cheap knockoff like my B&D corded
that I bought almost new at a garage sale for 20? bucks, is probably
more than sufficient. It probably wouldn't last a month on an active
jobsite, but at a dozen or so cuts a year, it will outlast me.
Don't get me wrong- Milwaukee tools (at least the pro-grade they used to
sell at the supply houses- never looked at the big-box versions) are
great, but for those of us with limited demands and a limited budget,
they are overkill. Like buying Snap-on wrenches to change the lawnmower
sparkplug once a year.
I tend to put a chain round roots - leaving a bit of the stump attached -
and then jacking the stump out of the ground using fence posts for leverage.
Of course, I'm talking garden sized things rather than large native trees...
Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination, but not
for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel on the grinder,
but instead has everything to do with where on contacts the wheel.
Suicidal? Not at all. One stupid move on the part of a user does not make
a tool suicidal.
A reciprocating saw more typically just has one blade that simply, well...
It's fairly difficult to develop kickback with a circular saw. Not
impossible, but not easy. A circular saw would make a good choice for
materials 1/2" and up. Below that, I'd probably just break the stuff over
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