When you say "screw-connectors" are you referring to the side
connections on the
wall box devices?
I also have had to use twist connectors in ceiling mounted stuff. Used
Al/Cu rated ones of course. I was wondering though why there isn't
kind of a "terminal-block" kind of connector for Al/Cu connections. I
recently installed an inline exhaust fan that came with a
connector, but I don't think it was AlCu. Don't see why it couldn't be
done though, if Ideal set their mind to it.
It is not the cost of the tool but rather that the crimps are only sold
to contractors who have been certified in the application. If you have
not been certified by the manufacturer you cannot obtain the listed
crimps that are suitable for making aluminum to copper splices.
This normally happens when copper and aluminum are in contact with
each other. Causing less and less good metal to conduct electricity,
and causing overheating. So don't be surprised. What you should be
supprised about, wtf was that allowed to happen? There are special
wirenuts, i'm thinking about ideal, that have chemicals allowing
copper and aluminum wires to be twisted together. You can twist on
copper pig tails so you can use copper only fixtures.
Why? Aluminim isn't against code, has the wire become so damaged it
can not be salvaged?
Now this is a good idea, if you want to replace the aluminim with
upgraded cables, that's a very good reason. Personally I wouldn't
replace aluminim unless I really had too. But then I use electrical
inspectors for my own work performed in my own house. Even when I
don't have to. :)
Yes, you mentioned a possible problem. If the aluminim wire was
connected incorrectly at the fixture box you might have a problem
every where in the circuit. I would suggest you check that switch box
for incorrect connections(ie, unprotected copper to aluminum, copper
only terminals on the switch, etc).
Remember, never use what I posted or anyone as fact, always use
qualified personal to do electrical work, and allows comply with NEC
and local codes.
Our local power company uses a special crimp connecter to connect their
aluminum drop to our copper lines. It seems as if every 4 or 5 years they
lose their conductivity and have to be replaced and on one occasion the
connection even burned apart. I usually notice the problem when I hear a
sizzling static sound in my short-wave radio.
Think I would do as one poster suggested, check the smoke alarms. RM~
Get yourself a whole bunch of rolls of Reynolds Wrap (aluminum foil).
Run one strip from the basement to the attic on the North wall of the
house. Be sure to scotch tape all splices.
Run the other strip up the South wall of the house.
Connect the neutral wire to the alum foil on the South wall.
Connect the hot wire to the alum foil on the North wall.
Now simply attach everything in the house to those two foils and you
A note of caution. Always call the fire department when you are going
to turn on any appliance to warn them.
Funny you should suggest this. I have a microwave oven on a cabinet
near the stove. To protect it from the stove heat, I have a sheet of
aluminum foil taped loosely to the side as a heat/splatter shield. When
a thunderstorm is in the area, it is not unusual for the aluminum foil
to build a charge and discharge to the stove's metal frame with a small
flash & pop. In fact I've got many small pit marks on the stove where
it happens. And no, I've never had a lightning hit - and I do have
lightning rods on the roof.
So your suggestion of using a bunch of rolls of aluminum foil should
make a really big capacitor & put on a fantastic show.
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