Aluminum big wire anti oxidant

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On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 20:51:20 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

If you don't remove the conductors and wirebrush them, along with cleaning out the lug, you are wasting your time. You are probably wasting your time with the NoAlox anyway. The time would be better spent properly torquing the lugs.
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I don't have the authority to pull the meter. So, it's either schlock on some grey goop, or leave it alone.
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Christopher A. Young
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The main reason being is that sloppy workmanship is not something that can be code-specified away. I don't have a problem with Al _properly_ done. I've just seen too much done wrong.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
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On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 16:39:38 -0000, snipped-for-privacy@nortelnetworks.com (Chris Lewis) wrote:

Well said. That is the problem most of the time. It should be pointed out that the Alcan folks say that in testing aluminum performs better in the common aluminum lug than copper. That is why wire in the larger sizes has not been as much of an issue. Once you get away from binding screw connections the aluminum lug is the standard connecting device (Bolt in lugs, bus bars, lugs on big breakers and multi port splicing devices)
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Should I go squirt a bunch of noalox on the connections at the church camp, in the disconnect box, near the water front?
--
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Should I go squirt a bunch of noalox on the connections at the church camp, in the disconnect box, near the water front?
--
Christopher A. Young
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Chris Lewis wrote:

I believe in the US, antioxide paste is only required if the manufacturer requires it. But all the electricians I remember used it.
For 15 & 20A branch circuits wired with aluminum around the 1960s, a recommended procedure for making connections, based on extensive tests, includes abrading the aluminum surface and using antioxide paste.
--
bud--

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On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 16:10:56 -0000, AZ Nomad

Not to be a nit-pic, but aluminum does rust. The color of the rust is white (aluminum oxide), unlike iron oxide which is reddish brown. Aluminum will pit, especially if exposed to acids.
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Oh, for christ's sake. Are you nitpicking just for the sake of nitpicking?
Take some iron. Stick it in a tub of water. Do the same with aluminum. Wait a year.
Tell me again how aluminum rusts. The iron will pretty much disolve. The aluminum will develop a film and then do nothing.
And how the fuck would acids get into an electrical panel?
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yes, always

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I can confirm alunimum does rust, turns into white dust.......
much worse with moisture around like in a basement.........
saw a thomas edison invention at the museum in detroit literally falling apart. it was sad
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Should I go squirt a bunch of noalox on the connections at the church camp, in the disconnect box, near the water front?
--
Christopher A. Young
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Hello all, I like some of you am concerned about the aluminum issue. I swapped out a few worn receptacles and installed a couple of GFI outlets in the kitchen and bathroom... all on aluminum in a relative's house down in Delaware. I did the copper pigtail, twisted it well and ran on the wire nut. Seem to remember slopping some noalox on the joints before I nutted them. Now I read where I should've scrubbed the leads with a scrubby impregnated with the noalox so no oxidation would form between the time I scrubbed it and slopped on the goo. Apparently aluminum oxidizes that quickly. But now I'm reading that the twisting action, if done aggressively enough will penetrate the oxide... who to believe? One issue with the purple Ideal nuts is that they are no longer approved for long term pigtailing service... read the usage notes on a new package... the wording's changed, or so I've read. I'm trying to find the King Innovation "Alumicons" but nobody up here has them... looks like there wasn't too much aluminum used in these parts. I want to do this right... don't want my brother-in-law's attorney chatting with me about a huge foundation full of ashes.
Stan Posted from the Free Home Improvement Forum at http://www.spicyhome.com
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I use this http://www.shop.com/+-a-Ox%252Dgard-p37938032-g3-k36-st.shtml
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Sac Dave wrote:

I lived in my last house from '76(the year it was built) to '94. It has Al wiring. During that period I neve ran into electrical problem coming from Al wire. I was very vigilante about it. When Al wiring is done properly and does not get disturbed frequently, I think it's OK.
But then this is the story from a X-ray machine support engineer who was baffled for a system at a hospital. The system was always going out of focus generating lots of complaints from docs. using it. After burning many midnight oil, it was traced to main Al. power feed coming into the building. It was loose generating randome noise.
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On Jul 6, 8:11pm, snipped-for-privacy@frontiernet-dot-net.no-spam.invalid (stancomm) wrote:

Ever had a wire nut fail?
Be honest. We all have, at least once, and probably some we didn't know about.
Ever had a chocolate block fail? Probably there's some way to do it wrong, but it's vanishingly rare. I can't imagine using a wire nut ever again, now that I've seen a chocolate block. (dunno what the real name for this is.)
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TimR wrote: ...

How can I honestly say "yes" if I didn't know about it?

Nor I, nor do I have the foggiest what you're trying to describe...
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TimR wrote:

They are talking building wiring, not circuit boards. chocolate blocks are for pcb's, telephone, or stuff like that not lighting & appliance circuits. Eric
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No, you are US centric. Much of the rest of the world considers wire nuts so bad they're illegal. In Europe (my employer sent me over here temporarily) there are no wire nuts; everything is done with very secure, basically foolproof screw connectors commonly called chocolate blocks, because they look like one, and you snap off as much as you need.
I don't know if you can even get them in the US, but I'm going to bring a few back with me.
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You can come back to the US and convert the native population to European technology? Kind of like when they used to send preists to the heathen nations.
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Christopher A. Young
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