I purchased my lawn mower (6.5 hp B&S engine) new in September. I only needed to use a few short times to mow the front yard before the first freeze came. Since the engine has hardly been used much I was contemplating skipping the first seasonal oil change this fall. Will this be ok for the engine? I like to keep the oil clean but it seem silly to change it so soon.
I will run the gas tank dry as soon as I can get a decent day to do it here.
Thanks!
It will be oke do kee. It is new=A0oil not full of acid to etch bearings.
Ok, Think real hard now Einstein. Why Oh Why would you contemplate saving $2 for a quart of oil over the risk of damaging your new lawnmower? Sorry but your post just makes no sense at all. Bubba
I've ran my 14 Hp lawn tractor since 1994 and I think I've changed the oil twice.... I've had to put a new battery in it though. It starts great and runs as good as the day I bought it...so I wouldn't worry about running a lawnmower a few times and worrying about changing the oil. FREQUENT oil changes in small motors is the brainshild of retailers. LOL...Flame away....but after your done...come on over to my place and I'll let you take my tractor for a ride............. Jim
I never do a "winter season" drain of the oil and gasoline in my lawn mower.
I use my mower every month or so in the winter just to chop up the oak leaves that would be piling up otherwise, and to keep my lawn neat and tidy.
Around the end of March, I have complete maintenance done on my mower including having the blade sharpened or if needed, replaced.
Hi, I have John Deere mower with B&S engine. I just replace oil once a year,when winter comes store it away. Been 10 years doing this. it starts OK in the spring with couple pulls, still runs like new. Same with my Toro 2 cycle snow blower, chain saw, weed eater too. never had serious problem or damage. Tony
What ever floats your boat! I love people that maintain equipment like you do, more money in my pocket!! Change the oil every fall reguardless of the hours. Oil is cheap! Metal is expensive! Greg
I've changed the oil once or twice in my Sears (Tecumseh) tractor. Runs fine. Ain't broken, don't fix it.
"Taylor" wrote
After the first season, you're supposed to set the mower curbside. Buy a new one next year. Be sure to post your address along with date you will set it curbside so one of us can come by and check.
Unless your owner's manual advises otherwise, I'd change the oil since it's a new mower.
"BASIC MAINTENANCE "Some equipment will have different schedules, if you have your owners manual, check for any variations.
"Oil Changes;
"NEW EQUIPMENT SHOULD HAVE IT'S FIRST OIL CHANGE INSIDE THE FIRST 5 HOURS OF RUNNING TIME. IF YOU ONLY RUN YOUR EQUIPMENT A HALF HOUR PER WEEK, CHANGE THE OIL AFTER A MONTH ON A NEW UNIT. NEW ENGINES WILL HAVE A LOT OF INITIAL BREAK-IN CONTAMINANTS AND [the oil] NEEDS TO BE REPLACED EARLY. No special break-in oil is needed, or advised, use the regular good quality oil you plan to continue to use. After that, change the oil every 25 hours of running time or once a year. If your equipment is used in very dusty conditions change the oil more often. . . ." [EMPHASIS ADDED]
I remember seeing a few metal filings in the oil I changed out on the first oil change of my Toro Super Recycler which has a 6.0 hp B&S engine.
After 2-3 hours of running a new mower engine it is good to change the oil. It should be dirty from the break-in. The first oil change will extend the life of your engine. Your owner's manual provides recommendations?
Absolutely correct. I'm going to change mine next spring. Well, maybe, I've been saying that for 6 years now. I did add some oil last year but I guess that does not count.
This is very good advice! The same goes for a new automobile. I am still driving my 1987 Nissan Pathfinder with 348,000 miles on it. Runs great - had regular oil changes every couple thousand miles. The first oil change at 100 miles is the critical one. It washes out all the little metal particles that occur during the break-in period. Why should a small engine be any different??
You replace the oil on your 2 cycle snow blower, chain saw, and weed eater! I have never been able to find the oil on mine.
Actually, it's more critical in a small engine. Small engines don't have an oil filter.
It is not critical now, its up to you.. It is true the first oil change should be sooner but you said a few short times run, if that is under say 6 hrs. leave it and change in the spring, first thing. Acids have not developed yet . Or change it now if apx 4-6 hrs are on it, use Mobil Synthetic it is proven to double engine life or more { by B.M.W ]
You have no oil filter so take care, that motor is likely rated at 350
- 500 hrs. Pressure oiled motors used in any commercial mower run
2-3000 hrs. at 3600 rpm, and 8-12000 hrs. at 1800 rpm, so keep RPMs down sharpen blade when dull and use synthetic oil.Remember 1/2 rpm = 4x life
On 12/12/2004 12:32 AM US(ET), toller took fingers to keys, and typed the following:
Oooops. Someone's pants fell down. Maybe he changes the oil in the electric machines too.
Factory instructions say to change oil after first 5 hours of operation, then every 25 hrs. I don't think it's even run for 1 hour yet, hence the question.
Price of oil is not an issue, but wasting resources or time unnecessarily is. Since B&S recommends synthetic oils, I plan to use Mobil 1 10W30 when the oil is changed. (first time oil was supplied by factory).
Good choice. I did not realize that B&S finally came around to recommending it. The synthetic holds up much better in hot running air cooled engines. I have always used 5W30 which works just as good as both are the same viscosity at operating temperature. The lighter weight might make it just a tad easier to start when cold. I even used it when Mobil 1 came only in
5W20.The first oil change should be done in just a few hours use to drain inpurities from the manufacturing process. (metal shavings, dirt, abrasives, extra nuts and bolts, lunch bags, etc)
After that, change oil in the fall right before it hibernates for the winter. Use synthetic oil because these small engines need all the lubrication help they can get. (Redline is a good choice due to the healthy dose of Moly)
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.