Alarm system transformer + power supply (would both go bad at once?)

I'm ok with simply replacing the Bosch/Radionics D2212BLT board (where the LT simply means the board kit came without the transformer).

Bosch has plenty in stock, but they won't sell them to me. ADI & Anixer will only sell them to a contractor.

I just had a long conversation with the guys at

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who will try to get the board for me (they say it's the most common board out there).

Jeeesuz. Bosch has this market locked up tight!

Reply to
Danny D'Amico
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I can get the board for $104 but it's out of stock. The retail is $169, I'm told. So, now, all I need to do is find the board in that price range from a "pass through" guy who has a Bosch agreement.

You'd think this would be the easy part! :)

Reply to
Danny D'Amico

Wow. Gotta try that trick!

Reply to
Danny D'Amico

Yes. Voltage spike, lightning strike, leg dropped across from power company, or some moron accidentally touching the neutral in the breaker box to the other leg of the incoming power. They can cause both to fail. All are sudden over voltage conditions.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

Where are you located?

Maybe someone on this list with electronic skills can take a look at it and maybe repair the board(s).

Reply to
tm

Silicon Valley, of all places. :)

I find it hard to believe THREE things would go bad at once.

I can run rudimentary tests on the D2212B board, but, what I need to do is read all the PDFs I found to see if any offer advice as to whether there is a RESET.

There's a reset button on the wall controllers, but, they don't power up with the battery in place so, *something* is wrong.

If it's a simple board reset, that's what I'll look for first.

Reply to
Danny D'Amico

Hmmm, Sorry to say this, I think you don't have basic logic TS skill and expertise/experience. Can you use Huntron tester or simple Boolean algebra for an example? One way of logical TS is process of elimination. You did not eliminate anything yet. Ever heard of shot gun method? When you are in a hurry, you do it based on your experience. Or you'll never pin point what is wrong. I lived all my life from Vacuum tube era in electronics as a hobby and career.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

Um, call someone who knows what they're doing?

Reply to
krw

Nice.

Reply to
krw

Tell them you're from the IRS. They'll give it to you. ;-)

Reply to
krw

Is that how Alt.Home.Repair works? Is that how Alt.Security.Alarms works? Is that how Sci.Electronics.Repair works?

Call someone who knows what they're doing? That's why I'm asking here.

You guys are supposed to know what you're doing!

:)

Reply to
Danny D'Amico

After a half dozen phone calls today, I see that Bosch has their distributors and dealers locked up.

They won't even quote a price, even though they have plenty of these boards in stock (it's the most common board, according to one guy).

The trick, just as it was with garage door torsion springs, is to find the "pass through" supplier, like Dan Musick of DDM fame.

Doesn't anyone on the alarm newsgroup know a pass-through supplier?

Reply to
Danny D'Amico

Um, the point is that the alarm system doesn't work.

You can't be serious. Debugging electronics by long distance is difficult, at best, and impossible if the person at the other end is completely helpless.

You have a bigger problem than even I suspected.

Reply to
krw

I wouldn't expect any differently. They rely on each other for the food on their tables.

Why bother quoting it if they can't sell it to you. Have you tried showing up at quitting time with ten or twenty Franklins?

How about your local alarm company?

Reply to
krw

It is a real simple circuit. There is an NPN transistor (Q1) that drives the relay. The black diode is across the relay coil to protect the transistor. The other diode is a zener in series with the 2.4 k resistor to the base of the transistor. When the battery voltage is above 9.x volts, the zener will conduct and turn on the transistor that will in turn operate the relay. The relay will make the connection from the red wire to the battery (W1) to the J2 terminal marked power. It will supply voltage to the alarm panel until the battery voltage drops below the zener diode conduction point.

Charge your battery for a while and see if it will light a simple tail light bulb. Measure the battery with the bulb connected and lit.

tm

Reply to
tm

You should peel off the double sided tape on the LV Disconnect board and see if any track has been damaged.

tm

Reply to
tm

My main question is *where* can I find a "pass through" alarm servicing company that will sell me just the board for the $105 it's worth.

This guy can't find the boards (I talked to him personally):

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Nobody will sell them to him. Yet, Bosch told me that they have plenty in stock.

So, it's only a question of finding the right "pass through" guy.

I'm hoping at least one person on this thread knows that answer since I don't.

Reply to
Danny D'Amico

When I saw that suggestion, I ran a search at Grainger for D2212B:

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But, nothing came up.

Then I searched alarm systems, and only the sensors came up. I didn't call them though.

I'll call 'em tomorrow, because, well, because huckleberries are found where they are, and not where I might think they are.

Reply to
Danny D'Amico

My logic in asking would be the same as my friend asking me how much my cellphone cost. I could still quote the price even if I had no intention of selling it to him.

They all told me exactly the same thing. If they told me the price, they would be breaking their legal agreement with the manufacturer.

So, one thing I've learned here is that Bosch sure knows how to lock up a market. I'm pretty sure I will have a source by tomorrow though, as I have a few leads pending from my phone calls.

Reply to
Danny D'Amico

Hi, What if the new board blows up when replaced? Are planing to protect it some how from that occuring? BTW, looking at arrow marking on diode can yu tell which direction current electron or current flows? Can you tell which lead is cathode or anode?

Reply to
Tony Hwang

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